Question:

Occassionally my furnace (oil, FHW) does not start on it’s own.  Yesterday morning I woke up to a 58 degree house with a thermstat setting of 66.  When I check the furnace I can hear the circulator pumps running but no fire.  If I hit the reset on the motor it starts right up.  It continues to run correctly for a day, couple of days, maybe a week and then will happen again.  The rate of occurance seems to be increasing.  Any ideas what might cause this and how to repair it.  There are 4 zones in the house, all controlled with those round honeywell thermostats, except for the main living area which is a digital thermostat with battery backup (new batteries).

Response:

<<  If I hit the reset on the motor it starts right up.  It continues to run Motors can behave this way at the end of their career. Worn bearings can increase starting current and trip the overcurrent protection. The reset system itself may be a problem. It would be prudent to check on motor repair or replacement ASAP. While waiting for better weather to service the unit, try pressing the rest button every day to keep it going. Good luck. Joe

Response:

Occassionally my furnace (oil, FHW) does not start on it’s own.  Yesterday morning I woke up to a 58 degree house with a thermstat setting of 66.  When I check the furnace I can hear the circulator pumps running but no fire.  If I hit the reset on the motor it starts right up.  It continues to run correctly for a day, couple of days, maybe a week and then will happen again.  The rate of occurance seems to be increasing.  Any ideas what might cause this and how to repair it.  There are 4 zones in the house, all controlled with those round honeywell thermostats, except for the main living area which is a digital thermostat with battery backup (new batteries).

Most hot water baseboard systems are controlled to operate with the thermostats turning on the valve for a particular zone, which, then, turns on the circulating pump.  The burner is operated by the water temperature of the water tank.  It seems that yours is set to operate that way.  The burner motor is not supposed to stop running until the water is up to the temperature setting.  Everything seems to operating properly except the overheat of the burner motor.  You have described the motor overheat device tripping out.  The motor is over heating and that is the cause of the problem.  While it is running, and after it has run for most of its cycle, put your hand on it and see if it is too hot to hold your hand on.  Turn the power off to the furnace system and then check the burner motor to see if it is free to spin.  This motor runs the oil pump and blower.  Maybe this sytem is dirty and needs cleaning.  Also, the motor may have oil tubes that require some oil for the bearings.

Response:

<<  If I hit the reset on the motor it starts right up.  It continues to run Motors can behave this way at the end of their career. Worn bearings can increase starting current and trip the overcurrent protection. The reset system itself may be a problem. It would be prudent to check on motor repair or replacement ASAP. While waiting for better weather to service the unit, try pressing the rest button every day to keep it going. Good luck. Joe

I don’t think this reset button has anything to do with current to the motor. This probably has to do with the flame sensor. Either the oil is failing to ignite (most likely) or the sensor is not detecting it. If you have a service contract on the burner, call the oil company and let them deal with it. You might also want to start by removing the nozzle and cleaning it off. Also, check the electrical contacts to the igniter (not sure if that’s what it’s called). A couple passes with sandpaper can’t hurt. There also might be sludge or water in the oil. I’ve had a similar problem to this one. I have two furnaces and a hot water heater, all oil-fired. The house was built 15 years ago, but in the last couple winters, I’ve found that if all three units run at the same time, one will almost always turn off, apparently because it’s starved for oil. The oil company says it’s because the main oil lines coming in from the tank are too narrow. They are unable to explain why it only became a problem recently. This winter, it has become a constant nuisance, since the furnaces are running so much of the time. There’s not much I can do about it now, but I’ll have to get the pipes replaced in the spring.

Response:

Occassionally my furnace (oil, FHW) does not start on it’s own.  Yesterday morning I woke up to a 58 degree house with a thermstat setting of 66. When I check the furnace I can hear the circulator pumps running but no fire. If I hit the reset on the motor it starts right up.

Are you talking about the reset button actually ON the motor, or the larger red button on the control box? IF its the little one on the motor, the motors about toast…overamping, and possibly locking at times. If its the large red on on the burner control box, you have other issues that need to be checked by a qualified tech. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It continues to run correctly for a day, couple of days, maybe a week and then will happen again.  The rate of occurance seems to be increasing.  Any ideas what might cause this and how to repair it.  There are 4 zones in the house, all controlled with those round honeywell thermostats, except for the main living area which is a digital thermostat with battery backup (new batteries).

Response:

Question:

Can you give some examples of dangerous advice he has given? If you are correct, and you can document it, then you are doing a public service.  If you can’t, then you are just… well, you know what you are.

Response:

Hi Wade, hope you are having a nice day On 30-Nov-02 At About 08:16:27, Wade wrote to All  W Can you give some examples of dangerous advice he has given? If you  W are correct, and you can document it, then you are doing a public  W service.  If you can’t, then you are just… well, you know what you  W are. Maybe arty can’t but I can. the advice he just gave could blow the furnace up in this guys face or burn him badly with a rollout.  -= HvacTech2 <=- .. "Careful.  We don’t want to learn from this." — Calvin                     ___ TagDude 0.92

Question:

I have an old Burnham gas boiler, which supplies hot water baseboard heat.  The pressure gauge on the boiler has always read around 10psi or so (maybe a little higher when its running).      Today, a technician came to look at the boiler because the heat was not working on the upstairs zone.  He said the problem was air in the pipes, so he bled the air from the system by attaching a hose to the boiler.      He was fiddling around with the Bell & Gossett pressure reducing valve as he was bleeding the system.  Then suddenly, the safety release valve on the boiler released, showering my basement with quite a bit of water.  Eventually the upstairs heat seemed to be working better, so he figured that bleeding the system must have solved the problem, and he left (after which I mopped up the mini-flood on my basement floor).      My questions are this: the pressure gauge on the boiler now reads about 18psi when cold.  Is this too high, and can it be dangerous?  It never went above 10-11 before, and I’m wondering if the technician, while fooling around with the pressure reducing valve, might have increased the boiler pressure too much?  I tried following the instructions for the reducing valve to reduce the pressure. But, turning the adjusting screw on the reducing valve seems to have no effect on the boiler pressure.  The gauge still reads 18psi.      Also, the technician said that the cold water shutoff valve should always be left ON.  I had always kept it off before, and the instruction manual for the B&G reducing valve also says that the valve should be kept off.  Is he right, should this valve be on?      Any advice would be greatly appreciated!  Thanks.  -Dennis

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have an old Burnham gas boiler, which supplies hot water baseboard heat.  The pressure gauge on the boiler has always read around 10psi or so (maybe a little higher when its running).      Today, a technician came to look at the boiler because the heat was not working on the upstairs zone.  He said the problem was air in the pipes, so he bled the air from the system by attaching a hose to the boiler.      He was fiddling around with the Bell & Gossett pressure reducing valve as he was bleeding the system.  Then suddenly, the safety release valve on the boiler released, showering my basement with quite a bit of water.  Eventually the upstairs heat seemed to be working better, so he figured that bleeding the system must have solved the problem, and he left (after which I mopped up the mini-flood on my basement floor).      My questions are this: the pressure gauge on the boiler now reads about 18psi when cold.  Is this too high, and can it be dangerous?  It never went above 10-11 before, and I’m wondering if the technician, while fooling around with the pressure reducing valve, might have increased the boiler pressure too much?  I tried following the instructions for the reducing valve to reduce the pressure. But, turning the adjusting screw on the reducing valve seems to have no effect on the boiler pressure.  The gauge still reads 18psi.      Also, the technician said that the cold water shutoff valve should always be left ON.  I had always kept it off before, and the instruction manual for the B&G reducing valve also says that the valve should be kept off.  Is he right, should this valve be on?      Any advice would be greatly appreciated!  Thanks.  -Dennis

You can’t lower the pressure until you bleed off water from the system.  Then the reducing/fill valve will feed water to maintain the pressure it is set at. 18 psi won’t hurt anything but there’s no point in it being higher than needed to reach the topmost radiator when cold. If the system never uses water (no relief valve dischg), the feed valve may be left closed.  Otherwise, it’s best left open. Jim

Response:

18 psi won’t hurt anything but there’s no point in it being higher than needed to reach the topmost radiator when cold.

Right. In case your gauge doesn’t read feet, the conversion factor is 1 psi = 2.3 feet of water head. If you have a 2 story house with furnace in the basement, the minimum pressure at the furnace to ensure positive pressure in the 2nd floor radiators 20 feet = 9 psi. Higher pressure does reduce the need to bleed air from the system.  (Cold supply water is typically saturated with air; air is less soluble in warm water; so air will outgas from the heated water if the upper floor radiators don’t have positive pressure.)  So it is best to set it above minimum. 18 psi is fine. trivia: If it makes hot water, not steam, what you have is a furnace, not a boiler.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have an old Burnham gas boiler, which supplies hot water baseboard heat.  The pressure gauge on the boiler has always read around 10psi or so (maybe a little higher when its running).      My questions are this: the pressure gauge on the boiler now reads about 18psi when cold.  Is this too high, and can it be dangerous?  It never went above 10-11 before, and I’m wondering if the technician, while fooling around with the pressure reducing valve, might have increased the boiler pressure too much?  I tried following the instructions for the reducing valve to reduce the pressure. But, turning the adjusting screw on the reducing valve seems to have no effect on the boiler pressure.  The gauge still reads 18psi.      Also, the technician said that the cold water shutoff valve should always be left ON.  I had always kept it off before, and the instruction manual for the B&G reducing valve also says that the valve should be kept off.  Is he right, should this valve be on?

You might want to check what the pressure is when the system is hot. On mine, if the pressure is 12 psi when cold, it gets up to about 25 or so when hot.  So if your system is at 18 when cold, it might go over 30 when hot, causing the relief valve to open.

Response:

Question:

What house can you cool down only at night and keep it comfortable during the summer days without running the A/C while the sun is up?

Adobe? — John Haggerty Haggerty Family home page; http://home.flash.net/~texan/

Response:

o.k. I’m NOW convinced, anybody recommend a good easy to use brand. with easy over-ride, and different settings for the week-ends? thanks — Alive and well….. . – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – work and do save money….They work to the point, that industry and business employ engineers and contract businesses to do energy surveys….and they will even go to the point of complete computer control….all to save money…….Logic can get lost here quickly….there are many…many variables…..and each one has to be accounted for and controlled in the each other can vary…..and I think a furnace man that says these don’t work must Mechanical Engineers can put charts, tables, math (Calculus) to work just to solve this "simple" problem……For a thermostat to work well, everything else has too be up to par…i.e. furnace, insulation, drafts….rjf I have a programmable thermostat which can be set for different temps for awake..sleep  etc. My furnace man said they dont save you any money and cause the unit to work harder. He said  you should keep the temp stable all the time. Any thoughts…?  Don

Response:

Nearly 10 years ago I bought a programmable tstat and hooked it up to my heat-pump. This tstat had the ability to report the use over the last 7 days individually and the previous week and "year-to-date" depending upon when you reset the unit. Anyway, the first year I used 750 hours of aux heat, the electric resistive kind, I was shocked. Luckily the heat-pump broke an had to be replaced and that next year I only used 75 hours of aux heat due to the increased efficiency of the new heat pump. With the heat-pump it didn’t really matter whether it was setback or not, a lot of time was used in "heating" up the interior of the hose. What really helped was to have the curtains open in the winter time to let the sun shine in and heat things up which reduced the amount of time the heat-pump was operating. Thanks Bert

Paul, Take a look here.

http://www.homeauto.com/Products/HAIAccessories/Omnistat/rcseries.htm… – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – ew back to 64 at 6:30a.  I know it is saving energy because the Stat-has a clock that shows me furnace run time over the last 24 hr period.  I Wow, this is a great feature.  One thing I have never liked about the programmable stats I have used is they give you no feedback about what they are doing.  Measuring performance month to month is not generally helpful because temps change fairly significantly.  I would love to see this kind of info.  Even more so on my old (cursed) heat pump house where I always wondered if I was saving backup burn time by not heating at night when it was coldest (had a special heat pump designed programmable tstat for it, of course). I don’t know why someone can’t make a tstat that shows a report of how it is affecting burn time/cool time based on changes.   Would allow the home user to make more informed decisions on it’s use and would probably cost about $1.49 in chip costs to implement. — Paul Prior MD   Cash rebates from online purchases -up to 30% back. Coshocton, OH   Includes: Disney,Borders,Wine.com,800.com,Dell,petstore Solo Practice   uBid,more.com,JCrew,800-flowers,Avon, WWF & hundreds more. OB/GYN, FACOG   Try: http://www.ebates.com/index.jhtml?referrer=pprior

Response:

and do save money….They work to the point, that industry and business employ engineers and contract businesses to do energy surveys….and they will even go to the point of complete computer control….all to save money…….Logic can get lost here quickly….there are many…many variables…..and each one has to be accounted for and controlled in the other can vary…..and I think a furnace man that says these don’t work must Engineers can put charts, tables, math (Calculus) to work just to solve this "simple" problem……For a thermostat to work well, everything else has too be up to par…i.e. furnace, insulation, drafts….rjf – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a programmable thermostat which can be set for different temps for awake..sleep  etc. My furnace man said they dont save you any money and cause the unit to work harder. He said  you should keep the temp stable all the time. Any thoughts…?  Don

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – back to 64 at 6:30a.  I know it is saving energy because the Stat-has a clock that shows me furnace run time over the last 24 hr period.  I Wow, this is a great feature.  One thing I have never liked about the programmable stats I have used is they give you no feedback about what they are doing.  Measuring performance month to month is not generally helpful because temps change fairly significantly.  I would love to see this kind of info.  Even more so on my old (cursed) heat pump house where I always wondered if I was saving backup burn time by not heating at night when it was coldest (had a special heat pump designed programmable tstat for it, of course). I don’t know why someone can’t make a tstat that shows a report of how it is affecting burn time/cool time based on changes.   Would allow the home user to make more informed decisions on it’s use and would probably cost about $1.49 in chip costs to implement.

With a conventional furnace (single speed fan) you could install an outlet wired to the fan motor, then plug a mechanical clock in there (if you can find one).  It will register the number of hours the fan runs (which will roughly match the burner on time).

Response:

Paul, Take a look here. http://www.homeauto.com/Products/HAIAccessories/Omnistat/rcseries.htm… ew – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – back to 64 at 6:30a.  I know it is saving energy because the Stat-has a clock that shows me furnace run time over the last 24 hr period.  I Wow, this is a great feature.  One thing I have never liked about the programmable stats I have used is they give you no feedback about what they are doing.  Measuring performance month to month is not generally helpful because temps change fairly significantly.  I would love to see this kind of info.  Even more so on my old (cursed) heat pump house where I always wondered if I was saving backup burn time by not heating at night when it was coldest (had a special heat pump designed programmable tstat for it, of course). I don’t know why someone can’t make a tstat that shows a report of how it is affecting burn time/cool time based on changes.   Would allow the home user to make more informed decisions on it’s use and would probably cost about $1.49 in chip costs to implement. — Paul Prior MD   Cash rebates from online purchases -up to 30% back. Coshocton, OH   Includes: Disney,Borders,Wine.com,800.com,Dell,petstore Solo Practice   uBid,more.com,JCrew,800-flowers,Avon, WWF & hundreds more. OB/GYN, FACOG   Try: http://www.ebates.com/index.jhtml?referrer=pprior

Response:

Hi Bambino , hope you are having a nice day 07-Jan-01 08:31:22, Bambino wrote to All  B I had the same question before I added mine, so i tested it by doing  B one month using my ‘program’ and one month with the unit on ‘hold’  B so that it held the same temp all the time.  The latter month that  B had the heat on all the time, was about 35% more expensive – and the  B average temp during those months showed that the colder of the two  B was the one that was on ‘program’.  B Try it yourself and see what happens.  Mine is now on program all the  B time. This is about the best advice you can get. try it yourself and see what it does for you. I know it works for me and 15 degrees is a good setback point for me. one thing to remember is that a furnace does not work harder to recover it just runs longer. the temperature rise is always the same whether you have it set the same all the time or are recovering from a setback so there is no such thing as "working harder" .. I might have programmed my VCR incorrectly, I’d better go… – TEC         ___ TagDude 0.92

Question:

I think if you check you’ll find it’s actually ‘ahead’ of the coil in the boiler, not after where a ‘holding’ tank would be. It’s called a tempering tank, it warms the water to room temp or at least warmer than coming out of the ground so the coil can raise the temp easier/faster.

No, it’s definitely after the hot water, not before. You can see the cold water line going in (and feel the pipe) to the coil and the tank is on the outlet from the coil.  Between the outlet and the modified tank, there are two valves. First a shut off, second a blowoff, then a run of pipe up to the top of the tank. You should be able to use the classified ads to find a used heater for maybe $50. Your boiler shouldn’t have any trouble heating domestic water in the winter time. You may find you have a coil full of water hardness scale, or, the tank is actually after the coil and your hot water is cooling down in it before you use the hot water.

Both these are reasons I want to change this tank – either could be true. I also wonder if the water is stratifying in the tank rather than mixing, leaving cooler water to be drawn off. The coil is not the original – there’s no way of knowing for sure but it appears to be about thirty years old (the boiler is from 1924 or so). It’s old enough and the water is hard enough for minerals to be a problem. I would guess that the age of the boiler would make it too expensive to repair/replace. I toyed with the idea of having it descaled, but, again, this thing is soo old…….  You sure there isn’t a by-pass valve between the cold feed and hot water lines that’s leaking or partially open as a mixing valve? Follow the water line from your pressure tank/meter and make sure you know the direction of flow and where the water goes. Boiler water and the domestic water doesn’t mix, they’re separate.

I know about the boiler and domestic water. I even explained it to the home inspector who took pictures of "Moby Boiler" for his collection. Not a lot of houses with oil heat in this part of NJ anymore, and he’d never done one with this old a boiler. I haven’t been able to determine if there is a bypass. I don’t see one anywhere – which means there could be one in some odd place that I’ve missed. If things were right with the coil and boiler there is no need for the ‘holding’ tank and your type setup is probably the best there is with a new boiler. Especially if your heat runs from Sept to May.

Does that mean that these systems are similar to an on-demand type in function? As far as heat is concerned, three different plumbers looked at the boiler and after some laughter about the age (I mean, this thing has doors on it for converting it to hand-stoked coal if we ever get the urge!), the general thought was that it was in good repair and could last another seventy years with care. It’s certainly a cheap source of heat compared with gas – it costs approx. $45 a month to heat the house in season (and less once we install a set-back thermostat).   Our heating season is from October to April, btw, in Northern NJ. And we do plan on staying with oil, even if we do replace "Moby" in a few years for efficiency – I think the estimated efficiency on it has to be in the 60% range…..not good.           -=epm<=-      In matters of truth and justice,      there is no difference between large and small problems,      for issues concerning the treatment of people are all the same.                                           – Albert Einstein

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It sounds like an expansion tank, not a holding tank. If a holding tank, what does it hold? Expansion tank holds air until system heats up to compensate for system pressure. Hard to say, I can’t see your tank from here. Replace all pressure relief valves and think about living with leaks. Whatever… It’s clearly a holding tank for the hot water – it comes off the "tankless" hot water boiler part of the furnace, not the steam boiler, and is connected to a mixing valve and the cold water line. In theory, heated water flows upward into the holding tank from the boiler, and exits on demand, mixing with the cold water at the mixing valve. Reality would seem that there is a small reserve of heated water that makes it into the tank, but a gas hot water heater tank can’t be the same as a tank designed for the oil boiler. And we don’t seem to have a hell of a lot of hot water. Or am I missing something?

I’ve seen many boilers and expansion tanks but can’t ever remember an expansion tank on the domestic coil side, only the boiler side. Is there a drain valve on the tank? If so drain it so it doesn’t hold as much water, and do it about once a month. Adjust (closing) the valve between the cold and hot and you should be able to scald yourselves! I adjusted one for a customer the other day that was scalding them. Hold the hot line while hot is running somewhere and when it gets just hot enough you have to let go stop. It should be very close to right when it gets to the fixtures and you shouldn’t have to use much cold water to cool it. Gary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –           -=epm<=-      In matters of truth and justice,      there is no difference between large and small problems,      for issues concerning the treatment of people are all the same.                                           – Albert Einstein

Response:

We have an ancient oil boiler (with a relatively new burner) that makes both steam for heat and the domestic hot water. The previous owner took a gas hot water heater and modified it to act as a holding tank for the hot water from the boiler. This makeshift tank is vintage 1978 and needs to be replaced – there is visible corrosion on the top inlets that is making me very, very nervous. Anyone have an idea of the cost of replacing a holding tank? Is it normal to have a holding tank on one of these systems? I understand the point of having the boiler make the hot water, but it seems to be giving us insufficient hot water in the heating season when the thermostat seems to keep the hot water portion of the boiler from making enough water to meet demands for showering and laundry, etc. Since we are planning on replacing the boiler in the next few years, the question really is whether the cost of replacing the holding tank and the benefits to the existing system are greater or lesser than the costs of adding a gas hot water heater and closing off the existing part of the boiler. Any suggestions would be appreciated.           -=epm<=-      In matters of truth and justice,      there is no difference between large and small problems,      for issues concerning the treatment of people are all the same.                                           – Albert Einstein

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We have an ancient oil boiler (with a relatively new burner) that makes both steam for heat and the domestic hot water. The previous owner took a gas hot water heater and modified it to act as a holding tank for the hot water from the boiler. This makeshift tank is vintage 1978 and needs to be replaced – there is visible corrosion on the top inlets that is making me very, very nervous. Anyone have an idea of the cost of replacing a holding tank? Is it normal to have a holding tank on one of these systems? I understand the point of having the boiler make the hot water, but it seems to be giving us insufficient hot water in the heating season when the thermostat seems to keep the hot water portion of the boiler from making enough water to meet demands for showering and laundry, etc. Since we are planning on replacing the boiler in the next few years, the question really is whether the cost of replacing the holding tank and the benefits to the existing system are greater or lesser than the costs of adding a gas hot water heater and closing off the existing part of the boiler. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

It sounds like an expansion tank, not a holding tank. If a holding tank, what does it hold? Expansion tank holds air until system heats up to compensate for system pressure. Hard to say, I can’t see your tank from here. Replace all pressure relief valves and think about living with leaks. Whatever…

Response:

It sounds like an expansion tank, not a holding tank. If a holding tank, what does it hold? Expansion tank holds air until system heats up to compensate for system pressure. Hard to say, I can’t see your tank from here. Replace all pressure relief valves and think about living with leaks. Whatever…

It’s clearly a holding tank for the hot water – it comes off the "tankless" hot water boiler part of the furnace, not the steam boiler, and is connected to a mixing valve and the cold water line. In theory, heated water flows upward into the holding tank from the boiler, and exits on demand, mixing with the cold water at the mixing valve. Reality would seem that there is a small reserve of heated water that makes it into the tank, but a gas hot water heater tank can’t be the same as a tank designed for the oil boiler. And we don’t seem to have a hell of a lot of hot water. Or am I missing something?           -=epm<=-      In matters of truth and justice,      there is no difference between large and small problems,      for issues concerning the treatment of people are all the same.                                           – Albert Einstein

Response:

We have an ancient oil boiler (with a relatively new burner) that makes both steam for heat and the domestic hot water. The previous owner took a gas hot water heater and modified it to act as a holding tank for the hot water from the boiler. This makeshift tank is vintage 1978 and needs to be replaced – there is visible corrosion on the top inlets that is making me very, very nervous.

I think if you check you’ll find it’s actually ‘ahead’ of the coil in the boiler, not after where a ‘holding’ tank would be. It’s called a tempering tank, it warms the water to room temp or at least warmer than coming out of the ground so the coil can raise the temp easier/faster. Anyone have an idea of the cost of replacing a holding tank? Is it normal to have a holding tank on one of these systems? I understand the point of having the boiler make the hot water, but it seems to be giving us insufficient hot water in the heating season when the thermostat seems to keep the hot water portion of the boiler from making enough water to meet demands for showering and laundry, etc.

You should be able to use the classified ads to find a used heater for maybe $50. Your boiler shouldn’t have any trouble heating domestic water in the winter time. You may find you have a coil full of water hardness scale, or, the tank is actually after the coil and your hot water is cooling down in it before you use the hot water. You sure there isn’t a by-pass valve between the cold feed and hot water lines that’s leaking or partially open as a mixing valve? Follow the water line from your pressure tank/meter and make sure you know the direction of flow and where the water goes. Boiler water and the domestic water doesn’t mix, they’re separate. Since we are planning on replacing the boiler in the next few years, the question really is whether the cost of replacing the holding tank and the benefits to the existing system are greater or lesser than the costs of adding a gas hot water heater and closing off the existing part of the boiler.

If things were right with the coil and boiler there is no need for the ‘holding’ tank and your type setup is probably the best there is with a new boiler. Especially if your heat runs from Sept to May. Gary – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Any suggestions would be appreciated.           -=epm<=-      In matters of truth and justice,      there is no difference between large and small problems,      for issues concerning the treatment of people are all the same.                                           – Albert Einstein

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Question:

Hey Richie, Hope you’re not overworking yourself and in lots of pain.  You should be breathing hard, but still able to talk with some difficulty.  Not dizzy or really hurting.  You push yourself too fast and you’ll quit.  Ease on into it and when you’re feeling like you’re not being challenged enough, push yourself. One thing that helps me when I work out is that I shift my "associations". Whenever I lift weights and the muscle is starting to hurt (that’s the stretching of the muscle), I associate that with getting trim and fit.  My body feels the slight pain and I think, mmmm…fat burning, muscle building and that means stoking that furnace, not just for the workout period, but also all during the day and night!  I push myself, but not a whole lot…then when I feel better, I push myself even further.  At the end and I’m tired and a little sore… man, I feel so awesome because I’ve moved that much closer to losing all this fat!  And that feeling keeps happening for me everyday and keeps magnifying and magnifying.  Be sure to do your exercise ever day for 30 days straight, even if some days you just go out and take a short walk.  Remember, doing anything 30 days without interruption creates a habit. I don’t care much for cardio exercise, but I’ve found ways to speed up the fat loss in as little time as possible.  Important thing to remember:  If you haven’t done much exercise in a long time and out of shape—FANTASITIC!!!  Because that means doing just a little, means alot! The body can lose, like when you first go on a diet, a greater percentage of weight/fat, but after the body adjusts itself to lower intake of food or a certain level of exercise, you have to work a little harder for less results.  Don’t push yourself to keep up with others so that you’ll hate exercising.  Get you know your body and how it feels and how it responds. Be sure you’re well hydrated, especially DURING your workout.  Keep the water up all day and night, because that is helping wash the fat out of your system  (its much more complicated than that, but the basic principal is "water is your friend").  My friend is trying to lose weight by going into the sauna and sweating it off — NO! — just dehydrates you and when you drink liquids again, you gain the weight back.  Saunas are great, however, to sweat off all the toxins in your body…but keep drinking water (distilled water is best!) Well, go luck on your endeavor! Cossmo – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am taking it on faith at this point that the exercise will help me– so far no change.well other than dying from pain… but the potassium seems to help– which reminds me…..i better get some down…  Great for you– and I claim that I too will see your wonderful results…<g richie

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I am taking it on faith at this point that the exercise will help me– so far no change.well other than dying from pain… but the potassium seems to help– which reminds me…..i better get some down…  Great for you– and I claim that I too will see your wonderful results…<g richie

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Beth, That’s fantastic! I’ve also learned (well, am trying to learn) to make exercise part of my daily routine. I park the car near the end of the parking lot, take the stairs, etc., but I think good ole fashioned walking hiking and climbing is still one of the best Keep up the good work! JR

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Hi Everyone,  I introduced myself awhile back, but have not posted.  I have been so busy!  I want to tell you all why I feel excercise is so important.  I started WW a year ago this October, and up until the end of June, I did minuim excercise and in that 10 or so months lost a total of 17 1/2 pounds.  About the 1st of July, I started climbing/hiking and in 2 months I have lost 9 1/2 pounds for a total of 27 pounds!!!  I can’t believe I waited this long to get my act together, but better late than never LOL.   Well, just thought I would share that with you. Thanks for listening….Beth 254/227/150ish Jesus said, "Let the little children come to me, and do not hinder them,  for the Kingdom of heaven belongs to such as these."       Matthew 19: 14

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