Posts belonging to Category 'Furnace Ignitors'

I cannot begin to tell you

Question:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote:

Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com wrote in news:BZqdnZGkT8JDOqHeRVn- p…@comcast.com: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. You’re not evil enough.

I think that might be the problem. Every time I’ve tried to do those fuckers a favor, they’ve taken it as their due and then tried to squeeze me for more. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote:

"lisa" <ms_jade…@hotmail.com wrote in news:1128051473.455286.244780 @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again. Sorry for being nosy, but why did you get divorced? P.S. I used to  love how this guy at the rental office would tell me, "THE HEATER IS WORKING! IT JUST TAKES TIME TO WARM UP!"  Asshole.

There is a NEW furnace at my house. It’s a NICE house. The little spoiled rich bitches think that I’m supposed to come over and clean it for them. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Lash Rambo wrote:

Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com wrote in news:BZqdnZGkT8JDOqHeRVn- p…@comcast.com: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. Just one more day, Mrs. Dolores.  I’ll get you your rent in just one more day!

I wish you were my tenant. You’re not a retarded spoiled brat, or at least I don’t think you are. You can recognize laundry soap when you see it, right? And also, you don’t let your dish drainer drain directly onto the counter? You’re so in. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Ms Poopie Pants wrote:

On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:50:07 -0700, Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. U R A, landlord? What doo u own that maaks u so miserabble?

A cute little pink cottage that I bought when I was a single mom. We needed more room when I married Greg so we bought a slightly larger bungalow with room for expansion, and rented my house out, but I am SO SELLING it. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Dolores wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this.

Response:

"Jim Winters" <extremereactionfo…@yahoo.com

wrote in

news:1128049521.493422.214770@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Dolores wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this.

"I pay you to squeeze and you squeeze them to pay!" Name that Dickens! — "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com

wrote in news:BZqdnZGkT8JDOqHeRVn-

p…@comcast.com:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

You’re not evil enough. — "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

"Jim Winters" <extremereactionfo…@yahoo.com wrote in news:1128049521.493422.214770@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: Dolores wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this. "I pay you to squeeze and you squeeze them to pay!" Name that Dickens!

It’s got to be Oliver Twist. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

— "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

Dolores wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

— Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com

wrote in news:BZqdnZGkT8JDOqHeRVn-

p…@comcast.com:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

Just one more day, Mrs. Dolores.  I’ll get you your rent in just one more day!

Response:

Dolores wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

I’m currently doing a little pro bono work with another lawyer who is suing a property management company for slipping in a 60 move-out clause into a series of three-month leases, then charging the (poor Hispanic) tenants a huge penalty when they only give 30 days notice. 30 days is, of course, the overwhelming move-out notice required, and it’s NEVER present in a 90-day lease. This is clearly a preditory use of a liquidated damages clause on unsophisticated parties. Coats

Response:

Dolores wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

I wouldn’t do it for love or money. Buy, sell, buy, sell to infinity. There’s no way to avoid a loss when you rent.

Response:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this. "I pay you to squeeze and you squeeze them to pay!" Name that Dickens!

Scrooge in "A Christmas Carol"?

Response:

Largo wrote:

Dolores wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. I’m currently doing a little pro bono work with another lawyer who is suing a property management company for slipping in a 60 move-out clause into a series of three-month leases, then charging the (poor Hispanic) tenants a huge penalty when they only give 30 days notice. 30 days is, of course, the overwhelming move-out notice required, and it’s NEVER present in a 90-day lease. This is clearly a preditory use of a liquidated damages clause on unsophisticated parties.

Well.  There it is. If it weren’t pro bono, may I ask how much this little tidbit would’ve cost us irl? You’re probably not going to answer that either, but a girl can dream.

Response:

LisatheSequel <dontmai…@goaway.com

wrote in news:dhikr4$cj5$3

@swifty.westend.com: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right,

I

FUCKING HATE it. The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this. "I pay you to squeeze and you squeeze them to pay!" Name that Dickens! Scrooge in "A Christmas Carol"?

I think it was Bleak House.  It was the one that was made into a movie with Derek Jacobi. — "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

"lisa" <ms_jade…@hotmail.com

wrote in news:1128051473.455286.244780

@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again.

Sorry for being nosy, but why did you get divorced? P.S. I used to  love how this guy at the rental office would tell me, "THE HEATER IS WORKING! IT JUST TAKES TIME TO WARM UP!"  Asshole. — "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

In news:Xns96E164C03D78Bnewbnewbcom@68.6.19.6, Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia <n…@newb.com

wrote : "lisa" <ms_jade…@hotmail.com wrote in news:1128051473.455286.244780 @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again. Sorry for being nosy, but why did you get divorced? P.S. I used to  love how this guy at the rental office would tell me, "THE HEATER IS WORKING! IT JUST TAKES TIME TO WARM UP!"  Asshole.

    And the best thing is that, 2 years later, when you’re moving out, they’re telling you "hmm, looks like you broke the heater…" !!!

Response:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote:

"lisa" <ms_jade…@hotmail.com wrote in news:1128051473.455286.244780 @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again. Sorry for being nosy, but why did you get divorced?

Do you want the reason I had at the time, or do you want to know what I think it was in retrospect?

P.S. I used to  love how this guy at the rental office would tell me, "THE HEATER IS WORKING! IT JUST TAKES TIME TO WARM UP!"  Asshole.

Sounds like my furnace company serviceman.  He sold me a POS furnace that’s had to have a poorly designed ignitor replaced on it every year for the 5 years I’ve had it, each time at a charge of about $160!  The last time they fixed it I was told by the serviceman that the company had redesigned their ignitors and that since I’d had so many replaced he thought the company would not charge me this time and told me to wait to pay it.  A few weeks later they mailed the bill.  I didn’t pay it.  They called and asked where is the money?  I told them I was going to call the company (TRANE) to complain.  I never got around to it. About a month later they said if I didn’t pay the $$ they would not be able to come to service it again.  I wrote them back and said oh, so you are threatening me with freezing to death over a $160 bill that I shouldn’t have had anyway if TRANE hadn’t poorly designed the ignitor to begin with? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

— "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

F

'87 Prelude misses then dies–ignitor problems?

Question:

A few months back I was stranded when my ‘87 prelude died on the road. Started with a very minor intermittent hesitation, proceeded to a severe loss of power and hard miss every few seconds, and within an hour at highway speed it finally quit running completely.  Would not restart.  Fuel pump ran for a few seconds when the key was turned, so I quickly ruled out the main relay.  (I had resoldered the joints a few years back.)  Cranked but wouldn’t ‘catch’. It sat overnight until I could get a trailer.  Once it had cooled off it would start and run for 10-20 seconds, but not with enough power to actually move the car. Replaced fuel filter–no help.  Checked and found no spark. Replaced distributor (including ignitor and pickup coils)–yes! Fast forward a few months.  Car is rarely driven, at least until last week.  This evening I noticed the very minor miss on the way home from work, and sure enough it progressed just as before.  This time I found a nice parking lot to stop in *before* it died completely. Come to think of it, I did notice that the tach was bouncing up a few hundred RPM every few seconds when the car was cold and at fast idle …maybe that was a warning? The distributor is a reman with lifetime warranty, so I’ll pick one up and either change the entire unit, or maybe just the ignitor module (if I can get to it).  But, I’m thinking an aftermarket reman distributor should last more than 500 miles.   So, what else should I be looking at?  Does anyone know of any other common failure points? Last time, the coil checked fine.  I’m considering changing it anyway. The little radio noise condenser checked fine last time too. Is there anything that could be causing this car to eat ignitors? Or maybe it’s not the ignitor at all? thanks! newell

Response:

There are many no start conditions so here are just a couple: You could check the ignitor by putting a small bulb across the coil’s primary. If you see it flash, your ignitor is most likely not your problem (I’ve checked them with a scope, but someone here taught me the bulb trick which is a lot more convenient). If you do replace the ignitor, be sure to apply some heat sink compound under the device. It will get rid of generated heat and prolong the life of the ignitor. About those RPM bounces on the tach, do you think they were real engine speed changes or just an indicator change? Your crankshaft position sensor determines your fuel injection timing and measures your engine speed, etc. Maybe that thing is not working right or has a bad connection. On an integra the crankshaft sensor is a simple go/nogo continuity check. You may want to check your manual on how to inspect that sensor. Remco

Response:

I suppose it would be important as well to know  if this is a Prelude Si (fuel injected) or an S (dual carbs)…. t

Response:

88 Civic, replaced starter, won't fire, maybe blew ECU?

Question:

In case I am not around for a few days, the company I bought Foreign Auto Computer 1-800-241-6689 They may be able to test yours. But again check everything else first. $200 is a lot of money if it doesn’t cure the problem. Terry

Response:

So we replaced the starter, Car started, ran out of gas during test, didn’t think to check gas as it sat there for 2 months! …Grandpa is so proud to work on this with me…

If you store your car a lot with a low fuel level in it, more condensation will get in there. If you have spark and injection points on the meter then ECU is fine. Changing the battery shouldn’t blow the fuse. It’s probably a pick up problem when the tank gets low. Wear your goggles, starter fluid is useful but dangerous on throttle body.

Response:

Thanks guys for all your advice I really appreciate it! We are gonna wait till after christmas to look at it again! Thanks again

Response:

PS.  The ECU is usually in the passenger kick panel.

Response:

There is a fuse that prevents any unacceptable voltage from going to the ECU.  Its an 80 amp fuse under the hood. I blew mine when I was screwing around with my alternator. But nothing at all happened when I turned the key, as no power was going anywhere. t

Response:

I think your ECM has 4 LEDs that light up to display problems. From 1988 until after 1991, Civics have the ECM under the

carpet up against the firewall on the passenger side. 4 10mm hold it on. There is a plastic window so you can see the LED. It is plenty bright, but in direct sunshine it may be hard to see. When you turn the ignition on, the LED should light up for a second or so. IF it doesn’t light up, then the ECM is either bad, or it is getting no power. If it flashes after the initial pulse, then you have something else wrong. You realy need a manual to even strt debugging this. If you post the number of flashes, and you can had more then one set of flashes. I will tell you what my books say it COULD be. Think simple. Most problems are not complex, they just apear that way. When I worked on a 1990 Civic the ECM showed three errors, after I replaced a bunch of defective parts. Repair of an ECM is not a real option, evn for a skilled tech. I got it "working", but it still shows an AT lock up error(19 flashes). In a MT Civic. As Honda has very robust ECMs I doubt that is the problem. My friends ECM had been wet, very wet. The corrosion ate away some of the leads for the various electronic parts. While Honda ECMs do fail, it takes a lot to kill them.  Cehck your fuses. ALL of them. Under the dash and under the hood. Disconnect the battery, and remove the 4 nuts that hold the cover and disconnect the ECM, install and remove the connector several times to clean them. A rebuilt ECM will run you around $200. I don;t have the name and adress of the company we dealt with, but I will dig it out. Avoid AutoZone, Advanced, and NAPA. A lot more expensive, with a worse warrenty. I wold do a net search on Civic PRM-FI relays. They fail most often in the heat of summer, but can die anytime. Do another search for Civic Ignitors (or Igniters). They can fail at anytime and will stop you dead in your tracks. Again, think simple, check the fuses, does the car crank OK, is the battery pretty strong? Cehck your spark plugs, a coworker had her Accord die at work, Cranked but no go. Pulled the plugs and they were all fouled with carbon. The car had 100K and she didn’t know when the plugs had been changed. We cleaned the plugs and the car ran a little rough, but she was able to get past Advanced Auto and get new plugs. We installed them over lunch the next day and her car ran GREAT. She is convinced that we are all very good mechanics. To check for spark I advise the use of a 8$ tool from advanced auto with a calibrated arc gap. Great little tool. A system may produce enough spark on a plug outside the engine, and not have enough juice to work under compression. Terry

Response:

So we replaced the starter, Car started, ran out of gas during test, didn’t think to check gas as it sat there for 2 months! We decided to fill up with gas and take the new "used" starter out to clean it up, put it back in, CAR won’t fire???? Checked Spark- good Checked fuel pump- good Checked Fuel injection points- they read accurately on the meter- good It turns over-good Fires- not good We think we might have blown the ecu when we reinstalled the battery! Is this possible? Would this be a symptom? Wouldn’t there be other symptoms? Would I notice the others if the car won’t start? How do I find the ecu? Read other posts but all I got was that it might be on passenger under carpet, might be on driver! I don’t really want to rip up the carpet to find this damn thing. Or is it under the seats? Is it in a box, what am I looking for? Any help would be great, Grandpa is so proud to work on this with me, but alas his knowledge is limited and so is mine! Thanks

Response:

Hi Michael I am not sure if you’d want to start looking at the ECU. It could be ‘it’ but perhaps look at some other things first. If you have spark and gas, the ECU is most likely ok. In my (perhaps limited) Honda experience, it seems that Hondas are hard to start after they’ve had a problem for some reason. Some other people say this is not needed, but I’ve had good experience getting a car started by spraying five seconds of ether in the air intake before starting it — take the intake hose off and spray it right in. Perhaps just try that first to see if it coughs back to life. Since you ran out of gas, maybe you sucked some gas tank sludge into the injectors or carb. Get some gas system cleaner (not dry gas, but the stuff that proports to clean your injectors/carb) and follow directions as to how much to fill the car up. Some cleaners work best on a near empty tank. It could also be that, while you took the starter out, you yanked a wire loose. On our integra, there are several quick disconnect bundle connectors that are right above the starter — one does go to the distributor. I’d check those connectors and spray some contact cleaner (Radio Shack) in them — can’t hurt. Perhaps you are getting gas, but the pressure is wrong. I don’t quite get how that would happen after running out of gas but could happen at any time, so perhaps is just a coincidence that it happened when it did. In that case, it could be your fuel pressure regulator. I am sure other people here will have a several more good suggestions for you to try. Regards, Remco

Response:

1993 Accord stopped dead on the road

Question:

There are specific resistance tests for the igniter with a multimeter. The tests should be in a Haynes manual, or maybe somebody can post it for your ‘93 Accord.  You do have to take it off the distributor first,

if it’s like the civic, you can access the two small bolts that hold the igniter without removing the distributor.  just feel underneath or use a mirror – they’re there and the ingiter comes out easily once loose. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – which can make it necessary to reset your timing afterwards. dan Check voltage to the distributor.  Check resistance in the coil.  If both good more than likely it is the igniter.  No specific check on the component that I know of, process of elimination. I was driving my 1993 Accord LX when it sputtered and stopped on the road last night. After the tow truck ride home, I took off the dristributor cap and had someone crank it over and the rotor did turn so at least it was not the timing belt. I can hear the main relay clicking on and off when I turn the key and I am getting fuel. I took the (external) coil wire off and held near ground but I was not getting any spark when I had a buddy crank the ignition for me. Should I change the coil or is there something else I should check first? Does the electrical current enter the iginitor or coil first? What electrical component whould most likely die while the engine was hot and while I was driving (coil, ignitor or main relay)? Thanks for the help…..

Response:

<snip Does the electrical current enter the iginitor or coil first?

The ignitor receives a low-current, low voltage signal from the ECU and puts out a high-current signal to the coil primary. High voltage from the coil secondary goes to the distributor contacts and out to the individual spark plugs. Every so often people with broken ignitors on Civics post in this NG, not sure if the Accord ignitor is the same or if it is particularly failure prone.

Response:

When was the dist. rotor changed? Had a rotor with insulation breakdown out on my 88 Accord. Engine died, but got spark at wires, seems spark was weak with the rotor. Mech said this is common problem, rotor should be replaced every 60K mi.  I had over 100k mi. Worth a try.

Response:

Check voltage to the distributor.  Check resistance in the coil.  If both good more than likely it is the igniter.  No specific check on the component that I know of, process of elimination. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I was driving my 1993 Accord LX when it sputtered and stopped on the road last night. After the tow truck ride home, I took off the dristributor cap and had someone crank it over and the rotor did turn so at least it was not the timing belt. I can hear the main relay clicking on and off when I turn the key and I am getting fuel. I took the (external) coil wire off and held near ground but I was not getting any spark when I had a buddy crank the ignition for me. Should I change the coil or is there something else I should check first? Does the electrical current enter the iginitor or coil first? What electrical component whould most likely die while the engine was hot and while I was driving (coil, ignitor or main relay)? Thanks for the help…..

Response:

There are specific resistance tests for the igniter with a multimeter. The tests should be in a Haynes manual, or maybe somebody can post it for your ‘93 Accord.  You do have to take it off the distributor first, which can make it necessary to reset your timing afterwards. dan – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Check voltage to the distributor.  Check resistance in the coil.  If both good more than likely it is the igniter.  No specific check on the component that I know of, process of elimination. I was driving my 1993 Accord LX when it sputtered and stopped on the road last night. After the tow truck ride home, I took off the dristributor cap and had someone crank it over and the rotor did turn so at least it was not the timing belt. I can hear the main relay clicking on and off when I turn the key and I am getting fuel. I took the (external) coil wire off and held near ground but I was not getting any spark when I had a buddy crank the ignition for me. Should I change the coil or is there something else I should check first? Does the electrical current enter the iginitor or coil first? What electrical component whould most likely die while the engine was hot and while I was driving (coil, ignitor or main relay)? Thanks for the help…..

Response:

I was driving my 1993 Accord LX when it sputtered and stopped on the road last night. After the tow truck ride home, I took off the dristributor cap and had someone crank it over and the rotor did turn so at least it was not the timing belt. I can hear the main relay clicking on and off when I turn the key and I am getting fuel. I took the (external) coil wire off and held near ground but I was not getting any spark when I had a buddy crank the ignition for me. Should I change the coil or is there something else I should check first? Does the electrical current enter the iginitor or coil first? What electrical component whould most likely die while the engine was hot and while I was driving (coil, ignitor or main relay)? Thanks for the help…..

Have a look at the Rover 216GSi PGM-FI article in the Miscellanea section of my website below. In particular, the zipfile contains some debug info for the igniter. — Graham W   http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial WIMBORNE   http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex Dorset UK  Astro Society’s Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps Change ‘news’ to ’sewn’ in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.

Response:

I was driving my 1993 Accord LX when it sputtered and stopped on the road last night. After the tow truck ride home, I took off the dristributor cap and had someone crank it over and the rotor did turn so at least it was not the timing belt. I can hear the main relay clicking on and off when I turn the key and I am getting fuel. I took the (external) coil wire off and held near ground but I was not getting any spark when I had a buddy crank the ignition for me. Should I change the coil or is there something else I should check first? Does the electrical current enter the iginitor or coil first? What electrical component whould most likely die while the engine was hot and while I was driving (coil, ignitor or main relay)? Thanks for the help…..

Response:

service engine light on 2003 325i

Question:

I wonder why BMW didn’t just have a recall for this. Interesting, as there was a recall on the 316ti and 318ti for replacing the coils.

Is there a place that I can check for service bulletins and recalls pertaining to my car? Anoop

Response:

www.alldata.com Deep

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I wonder why BMW didn’t just have a recall for this. Interesting, as there was a recall on the 316ti and 318ti for replacing the coils. Is there a place that I can check for service bulletins and recalls pertaining to my car? Anoop

Response:

Indeed, this was the problem with my car as well.  The dealer said that one of the ignition coils was going bad so they replaced all 6 of them. I wonder why BMW didn’t just have a recall for this.

Interesting, as there was a recall on the 316ti and 318ti for replacing the coils. Regards, Frank

Response:

Sounds like the same problem I had back in March with about 20000 miles.   Just started it up in the morning and it was really rough.  50% power loss and engine light came on immediately.  Ran perfectly the night before.  I limped into dealer and had them look into it.  Dealer said computer was reporting multiple cylinders misfiring.  Two of my six ignition coils were bad.  They replaced all six on the spot with new ones and sent me on my way. There should be no problem driving the car a short distance as long as you take it easy and don’t expect much power.  According to dealer they said there was some problem with a certain brand for the ignitors when my car was manufactured (March 2003) for this problem and switched to a different supplier.

Thanks for the reply. Indeed, this was the problem with my car as well.  The dealer said that one of the ignition coils was going bad so they replaced all 6 of them. I wonder why BMW didn’t just have a recall for this. Anoop

Response:

Have a 2003 325i with about 31000 miles.  It just recently had its second service.  This morning I drove it in to work just fine.  It was parked there all day.  In the evening, when I started the car, there was a lot of vibration.  I then noticed the "service engine" light was on.  I left the car at work and got a ride home from a friend.  I plan to take it to the dealer on Monday since the car is still in warranty.   Any ideas what might be causing this problem? Anoop

Response:

Have a 2003 325i with about 31000 miles.  It just recently had its second service.  This morning I drove it in to work just fine.  It was parked there all day.  In the evening, when I started the car, there was a lot of vibration.  I then noticed the "service engine" light was on.  I left the car at work and got a ride home from a friend.  I plan to take it to the dealer on Monday since the car is still in warranty. Any ideas what might be causing this problem?

No.  It is not possible to determine what might be wrong from just seeing the check engine light.  Download the codes with a scan tool, and then determine what might be the cause(s) of your problem. Jim

Response:

Have a 2003 325i with about 31000 miles.  It just recently had its second service.  This morning I drove it in to work just fine.  It was parked there all day.  In the evening, when I started the car, there was a lot of vibration.  I then noticed the "service engine" light was on.  I left the car at work and got a ride home from a friend.  I plan to take it to the dealer on Monday since the car is still in warranty.   Any ideas what might be causing this problem?

Sounds like the same problem I had back in March with about 20000 miles.   Just started it up in the morning and it was really rough.  50% power loss and engine light came on immediately.  Ran perfectly the night before.  I limped into dealer and had them look into it.  Dealer said computer was reporting multiple cylinders misfiring.  Two of my six ignition coils were bad.  They replaced all six on the spot with new ones and sent me on my way. There should be no problem driving the car a short distance as long as you take it easy and don’t expect much power.  According to dealer they said there was some problem with a certain brand for the ignitors when my car was manufactured (March 2003) for this problem and switched to a different supplier. Good luck! Joe Morris E46 2003 325xi joe at cesmail dot net

Response:

Calling all critics

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Still, Ford remains my second choice when Chrysler gets 100% Daimlered to death. Really?  For me, GM is clearly the second choice behind Chrysler.  I’m still willing to give Bill Ford a few more years, but I’m completely unimpressed with Ford’s current offerings … other than the new GT40, but who can afford a 150K+ car.. Matt I don’t find most of Ford’s line very exciting either- no way would I own a Taurus, Contour, or Focus. But Fords in general are, IMO, far better built than GM cars. If there were no Chrysler offerings at all and I couldn’t buy a truck/SUV, I’d go get a Mercury Marauder in a heartbeat. Even a plain Crown Vic would sit better with me than a GM product. Same in trucks- if I couldn’t buy a Ram, I’d buy an F-series. The GM C/K series and Suburban have been the top vehicles in Texas Lemon Law claims for YEARS now.

No offense, but I believe your information on quality is dated.  For the last few years most of the GM brands have scored above Ford and Mercury on most quality charts, with Buick scoring above many imports and near the top overall, believe it or not. Matt

Response:

1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1

  Thank You Phil.  I have been telling people that for years.  A vehicle consists of 1000’s of parts and if just 1 malfunctions (even a little screw loose)(the car-not me) can cause a vehicle to not start or run properly.  We rant and rave about the piece of junk this and piece of junk that.  Calm down and realize Point #1   Fix it or have it fixed and get on with your life.  People complain that they would NEVER BUY another product made by that company because they are all junk. Get real and wake up. The time to complain is when you take it back to get it fixed and the company that made it, is uncoperative. THEN you have a reason to complain.

Response:

1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens.

Very good point. I hate people that take a sample of one, and from that bad mouth a whole brand. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient.

Not true, public transportation breaks down, after all they use buses that are 15 years old and have pretty rough service. I know our city has had a couple of bus fires while in service, and several cases where the bus has to pull over due to low brake pressure. I’ve also been on a bus that broke down no less than 4 times on a 5 day trip. The last one forced us to be stuck at a dirty back woods garage for 3 hours. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1

Response:

Hear hear! DAS — For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling —

1. If it is man-made it will break – period.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1

I would have to agree. I just love it when people say they will never buy chrysler again, but I guess they do not look at the other newgroups. I browse the other two Americans(ford/gm) and they have just as much problems as chrysler does. Granted the problems may be different, but the quantitiy of them is still there. — Nick <Remove number one if replying by electronic mail

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1 I would have to agree. I just love it when people say they will never buy chrysler again, but I guess they do not look at the other newgroups. I browse the other two Americans(ford/gm) and they have just as much problems as chrysler does. Granted the problems may be different, but the quantitiy of them is still there. — Nick

My Chrysler Jeep Grand Cherokee is a great vehicle and never lets me down.. but take a look at this.. http://4wheeldrive.about.com/cs/buyacaronline/a/usedcarbest_3.htm .. it is rated among the worst..

Response:

3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. Not true, public transportation breaks down, after all they use buses that are 15 years old and have pretty rough service. I know our city has had a couple of bus fires while in service, and several cases where the bus has to pull over due to low brake pressure. I’ve also been on a bus that broke down no less than 4 times on a 5 day trip. The last one forced us to be stuck at a dirty back woods garage for 3 hours.

Very true on the public transportation. What I meant is not to fall victim to your own. Who cares if a public transport vehicle breaks. Just transfer to the next one coming along.

Response:

1. If it is man-made it will break – period.

Everything "breaks" ie: goes from a more organized system to chaos over time, this includes lifeforms. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it.

I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic.  Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal.  Never mind that there’s no shortage of metal but there is a shortage of oil that’s used to make the plastic. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended whereas the plastic will sit in a landfill forever.  Never mind that the plastic manifolds cost MORE MONEY than metal ones.  No, this automaker decides to use plastic. Then over time what do you expect – the manifolds start cracking far, far earlier than a metal one would. And this certain automaker rather than admit they were fucking idiots to use plastic, they just stonewall and claim that there’s no problem.  Then they claim that the problem is due to owner abuse. Then they finally admit they were morons but guess what – you still have to pay for a new manifold, unless of course your car is a cop car in which case you get it for free. Yes – cars will break down and we all got to pay homage to the great, all-knowing automakers. Ted

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. If it is man-made it will break – period. Everything "breaks" ie: goes from a more organized system to chaos over time, this includes lifeforms. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic.  Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal.  Never mind that there’s no shortage of metal but there is a shortage of oil that’s used to make the plastic. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended whereas the plastic will sit in a landfill forever.  Never mind that the plastic manifolds cost MORE MONEY than metal ones.  No, this automaker decides to use plastic. Then over time what do you expect – the manifolds start cracking far, far earlier than a metal one would. And this certain automaker rather than admit they were fucking idiots to use plastic, they just stonewall and claim that there’s no problem.  Then they claim that the problem is due to owner abuse. Then they finally admit they were morons but guess what – you still have to pay for a new manifold, unless of course your car is a cop car in which case you get it for free. Yes – cars will break down and we all got to pay homage to the great, all-knowing automakers. Ted

Ted: Take a tour of several different car stores.  Lift the hood on almost any vehicle and tap the intake manifold.  Let us know the stats!  I would guess that fully 90% will be plastic.  It has to do with weight, and a properly formulated and formed plastic will do just fine, the one of which you speak was poorly conceived. Dan

Response:

I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic.

Many automakers have decided it is a great idea to make intake manifolds out of plastic. As long as they are designed, specced, made and installed correctly in accordance with the characteristics of the specific materials used, plastic intake manifolds offer several real advantages over metal ones. However, if an improper material or assembly technique is applied, or if the design of a specific manifold is in some way flawed, then that specific manifold will make problems. However, your next statement is utterly asinine: Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal.

By this "logic", we should all be walking. We did so for thousands of years before the horse-drawn buggy was invented. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended

…as can be a great many different plastic materials… Never mind that the plastic manifolds cost MORE MONEY than metal ones.

For a given level of technology, that’s most certainly not true. It can be much easier, faster and less expensive to cast particularly complex manifolds in plastic than in metal. Then over time what do you expect – the manifolds start cracking far, far earlier than a metal one would.

Improper material selection and/or installation technique. And this certain automaker rather than admit they were fucking idiots to use plastic, they just stonewall and claim that there’s no problem. Then they claim that the problem is due to owner abuse.

Chrysler A604 transmission, Toyota 3.0 V6 engine, Ford 3.0 V6 engine, Ford AXOD transmission, Ford alternator, Ford ignition switch, Ford Explorer, Ford Pinto, Chevrolet Vega, Chevrolet V8 Holley carburetor, Ford intake manifolds, Ford cylinder heads…the list of examples of manufacturers stonewalling and claiming there’s no problem except owner abuse is lengthy and historical even if you omit anything having to do with plastic intake manifolds. Yes – cars will break down and we all got to pay homage to the great, all-knowing automakers.

Ted, I guess it boils down to this: You’ve got to be smart enough not to buy a Ford. DS

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic. Many automakers have decided it is a great idea to make intake manifolds out of plastic. As long as they are designed, specced, made and installed correctly in accordance with the characteristics of the specific materials used, plastic intake manifolds offer several real advantages over metal ones. However, if an improper material or assembly technique is applied, or if the design of a specific manifold is in some way flawed, then that specific manifold will make problems. However, your next statement is utterly asinine: Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal. By this "logic", we should all be walking. We did so for thousands of years before the horse-drawn buggy was invented. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended …as can be a great many different plastic materials… Never mind that the plastic manifolds cost MORE MONEY than metal ones. For a given level of technology, that’s most certainly not true. It can be much easier, faster and less expensive to cast particularly complex manifolds in plastic than in metal. Then over time what do you expect – the manifolds start cracking far, far earlier than a metal one would. Improper material selection and/or installation technique. And this certain automaker rather than admit they were fucking idiots to use plastic, they just stonewall and claim that there’s no problem. Then they claim that the problem is due to owner abuse. Chrysler A604 transmission, Toyota 3.0 V6 engine, Ford 3.0 V6 engine, Ford

The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine. AXOD transmission, Ford alternator, Ford ignition switch, Ford Explorer, Ford Pinto, Chevrolet Vega, Chevrolet V8 Holley carburetor, Ford intake manifolds, Ford cylinder heads…the list of examples of manufacturers stonewalling and claiming there’s no problem except owner abuse is lengthy and historical even if you omit anything having to do with plastic intake manifolds. Yes – cars will break down and we all got to pay homage to the great, all-knowing automakers. Ted, I guess it boils down to this: You’ve got to be smart enough not to buy a Ford.

You’re evidence suggests not buying a domestic in general.

Response:

The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine.

A great many Taurus owners would disagree with you. For a few months, I had a job as a line counterman at a large used auto parts place just outside of Denver. Amusement during work was sparse, so we had to make our own fun. One of the games we played was Taurus Bingo. When the phone rang and the voice on the other end said "Hi, I have a <year Taurus", we’d say "Sorry, we don’t have a working transmission for you." Most of the time, after a bit of shocked silence, the caller would say "Figures. OK, thanks" and hang up. If the caller said "But I don’t need a transmission", most of the time saying "Sorry, we don’t have a 3.0 V6 for you, either" would get "Figures. OK, thanks" and end of call. You’re evidence suggests not buying a domestic in general.

Doesn’t. (And it’s "your", not "you’re". I am not evidence.) I’ve had very good success with domestic cars chosen thoughtfully, and I’ve been bitten hard enough by foreign cars chosen on recommendation of Condemner Retards magazine that I no longer purchase foreign makes. DS

Response:

The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine. A great many Taurus owners would disagree with you. For a few months, I had a job as a line counterman at a large used auto parts place just outside of Denver. Amusement during work was sparse, so we had to make our own fun. One of the games we played was Taurus Bingo. When the phone rang and the voice on the other end said "Hi, I have a <year Taurus", we’d say "Sorry, we don’t have a working transmission for you." Most of the time, after a bit of shocked silence, the caller would say "Figures. OK, thanks" and hang up. If the caller said "But I don’t need a transmission", most of the time saying "Sorry, we don’t have a 3.0 V6 for you, either" would get "Figures. OK, thanks" and end of call.

Ok, the 3.0 might not be perfect, but I think the 3.8 head gasket problem and the AXOD transmission problem is far worse than any 3.0 problems in the Taurus lineup. Reading the Ford newsgroup there isn’t a whole lot of commotion about the 3.0. Any of it seems to be bolts coming loose. The AXOD and 3.8 head gasket has created huge amounts of commotion. Also, wouldn’t you rake in a killing if you had these parts in stock? Or were they just flying off the shelf? Did you ever play A604 bingo? Head gasket bingo? You’re evidence suggests not buying a domestic in general. Doesn’t. (And it’s "your", not "you’re". I am not evidence.)

Caught me on this one, usually I’m more careful. I’ve had very good success with domestic cars chosen thoughtfully, and I’ve been bitten hard enough by foreign cars chosen on recommendation of Condemner Retards magazine that I no longer purchase foreign makes.

CR is the worst piece of garbage to ever exist, possibly worse than Fords. I’ve pretty much given up with most car magazines. For once I agree with your mockery of a name. Although I don’t know how you could ever have a problem with an import. Toyota has never had oil problems. Same as Honda has never had front suspension or transmission problem. Mitsubuishi also has a history of making trouble free engines.

Response:

The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine. A great many Taurus owners would disagree with you. Ok, the 3.0 might not be perfect, but I think the 3.8 head gasket problem and the AXOD transmission problem is far worse than any 3.0 problems in the Taurus lineup.

We’re arguing over which item is less worse than which other item… Also, wouldn’t you rake in a killing if you had these parts in stock?

We couldn’t *keep* those parts in stock. Did you ever play A604 bingo?

You betchya! Head gasket bingo?

…no. Wrecking yards don’t sell head gaskets. But we did play Cadillac 4.1 V8 bingo, and Lincoln air suspension bingo, and Subaru headlight bingo, and all sort of other bingos. CR is the worst piece of garbage to ever exist

Hasn’t always been that way. I bought a 1961 CR issue that had a test of the Dodge Lancer, since I own a 1962 Lancer. WOW. If CR were still this insightful, probing, unbiased and accurate, it would be a useful tool. It has not been for at least two decades. I’ve pretty much given up with most car magazines. For once I agree with your mockery of a name.

Oil filters! Red wine! Lawn mowers! Hamburgers! Headlamps! Word processing software!  Speakers! You name it, they’ll pretend to be experts and contrive "tests" to prove it! Although I don’t know how you could ever have a problem with an import.

So you’re one of the brainwashed, too, then, eh? The non-US carmakers can do no wrong? Horseshit. Volkswagen Jetta. Toyota has never had oil problems.

Wrongo. Premature and prodigious sludge formation in Toyota 3-litre V6s, with resultant engine death. Same as Honda has never had front suspension or transmission problem.

Wrongo again. Honda has had *severe* transmission problems. They’ve handled them a damned sight better than Chrysler handled theirs, but they’ve had ‘em. Mitsubuishi also has a history of making trouble free engines.

Hat trick! Hat trick! Wrong yet again! 3-litre top ends (valve guides, crankcase ventillation systems, general oil sealing). Every first-world manufacturer has put forth good designs and bad ones, built well and built poorly. It’s the well-designed, well-built autos you want to buy, and any other combo you want to avoid. This cannot be done by shopping for a car attached to a "Honda" nameplate. The present Civic, for instance, is an ENORMOUS retrograde step in virtually everything from ergonomics to performance to handling to headlamp output compared to the previous Civic…and none of the new shortcomings has been fixed since the present Civic was released for ‘01. DS

Response:

The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine. A great many Taurus owners would disagree with you. Ok, the 3.0 might not be perfect, but I think the 3.8 head gasket problem and the AXOD transmission problem is far worse than any 3.0 problems in the Taurus lineup. We’re arguing over which item is less worse than which other item…

You’re right, that is pretty sad. But I bet if you did sell 3.8 head gaskets your phone would be ringing off the hook. Head gasket bingo? …no. Wrecking yards don’t sell head gaskets.

Too bad, you’d make a killing. Subaru headlight bingo

Subaru? Why would someone need a part for a Subaru? It’s Japanese perfection. DOES NOT COMPUTE!! DOES NOT COMPUTE!!! Oil filters! Red wine! Lawn mowers! Hamburgers! Headlamps! Word processing software!  Speakers! You name it, they’ll pretend to be experts and contrive "tests" to prove it!

A lot of people do. More cupholders/ airbags / Jap name plate? Guaranteed winner. If a car "seems like" it doesn’t brake well, when quantitative braking distances say otherwise, it doesn’t matter, what matters is if it "seems" better (usually dependant on nose dive). One of my favorite is apple-orange comparisons. Comparing a low trimline domestic against a higher trimline import. One example I can think of is the beloved Taurus. It’s base 3.0L 12V V6 puts out ~150HP, so does the 4cyl Camry. The upgraded V6 Taurus, and the V6 Camry put out ~200HP. 0-60 and 1/4 mile times for base-base or upgrade-upgrade are very similar (fraction of a second). Doesn’t mater, the Taurus is anemic and the Camry has great acceleration. Usually because they put a base Taurus against a V6 Camry. Then they count the number of cupholders, airbags, and woodgrain finish for a final count. Comparing the Neon to other cars in its class, it usually wins for 0-60. Same thing, it ends up as the "anemic" one. Fortunately the SRT-4 removes all question. Although I read a review of the 2004 model SRT-4. They started knocking points for problems in the 2003 model, but didn’t notice they were changed for 2004. The major problem was it didn’t contain mystical refinement like all imports do by default. Another bizarre comparison found a high end Echo Hatchback compared with a stripper focus hatch, and a base golf. The echo was almost twice the cost of the focus. Real fair comparison. Although I don’t know how you could ever have a problem with an import. So you’re one of the brainwashed, too, then, eh? The non-US carmakers can do no wrong? Horseshit. Volkswagen Jetta.

There was a subtle bit of sarcasm in there, which is why I cited known examples of Japanese problems. But speaking of Jetta. What an overpriced piece of crap! Is there any logical reason why it has such high resale? Looking in the classifieds, it seems people sell them with 300K  for more than they bought it. Every first-world manufacturer has put forth good designs and bad ones, built well and built poorly. It’s the well-designed, well-built autos you want to buy, and any other combo you want to avoid.

I have two cars that CR (and many others) say should be in the shop, or behind a tow truck more than on the road. Only ever had minor problems.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There’s no plastic in my ‘68 Torino.  :-) No need as they were crap to start with, no plastic needed to make them crap!  :-) Hey now, my first car was a ‘68 Ranchero (Torino from the doors forward)… uhhh… On second thought…. you’re right :-) Still, Ford remains my second choice when Chrysler gets 100% Daimlered to death.

Really?  For me, GM is clearly the second choice behind Chrysler.  I’m still willing to give Bill Ford a few more years, but I’m completely unimpressed with Ford’s current offerings … other than the new GT40, but who can afford a 150K+ car.. Matt

Response:

Still, Ford remains my second choice when Chrysler gets 100% Daimlered to death. Really?  For me, GM is clearly the second choice behind Chrysler.  I’m still willing to give Bill Ford a few more years, but I’m completely unimpressed with Ford’s current offerings … other than the new GT40, but who can afford a 150K+ car.. Matt

I don’t find most of Ford’s line very exciting either- no way would I own a Taurus, Contour, or Focus. But Fords in general are, IMO, far better built than GM cars. If there were no Chrysler offerings at all and I couldn’t buy a truck/SUV, I’d go get a Mercury Marauder in a heartbeat. Even a plain Crown Vic would sit better with me than a GM product. Same in trucks- if I couldn’t buy a Ram, I’d buy an F-series. The GM C/K series and Suburban have been the top vehicles in Texas Lemon Law claims for YEARS now.

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There’s no plastic in my ‘68 Torino.  :-)

No need as they were crap to start with, no plastic needed to make them crap!  :-) Matt

Response:

There’s no plastic in my ‘68 Torino.  :-) No need as they were crap to start with, no plastic needed to make them crap!  :-)

Hey now, my first car was a ‘68 Ranchero (Torino from the doors forward)… uhhh… On second thought…. you’re right :-) Still, Ford remains my second choice when Chrysler gets 100% Daimlered to death.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic. Many automakers have decided it is a great idea to make intake manifolds out of plastic. As long as they are designed, specced, made and installed correctly in accordance with the characteristics of the specific materials used, plastic intake manifolds offer several real advantages over metal ones. However, if an improper material or assembly technique is applied, or if the design of a specific manifold is in some way flawed, then that specific manifold will make problems. However, your next statement is utterly asinine: Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal. By this "logic", we should all be walking. We did so for thousands of years before the horse-drawn buggy was invented.

No, not at all.  What I’m saying is the advantages of switching need to be compelling for the customer to be used as a guinea pig. The advantages of driving a car vs walking are very compelling.  Thus, the consumer certainly would have been willing to put up with all the troubles of the first generations of automobiles.  The advantages of using a plastic intake manifold vs a metal one are not.  Thus if the automaker is going to make a change to get some minor (to them) benefit, they better be prepared to make absolutely sure to do it right the first time. Almost certainly if Ford had given a choice to all the new CV owners of whether they could buy a car with an aluminum intake manifold or one with a plastic manifold, the majority of purchasers would have not chosen the plastic manifold if they had been told this was the first year of manufacture. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended …as can be a great many different plastic materials…

But they usually aren’t.  You can dump an entire engine into a steel furnace without spending labor disassembling it, and melt it down. You mix it other metals, like aluminum, and you have to dump it into a steel shredder first to pull the ferrous metal out, while this is a bit more expensive, you still can get a pot of molten steel and a pot of molten aluminum without a lot of work. You mix in plastic and now even shredding it, you cannot separate the plastic from the non-ferrous metal, so you end up tossing all that into a furnace, separating the metals out, and what is left over is burned up plastic.  Or you pay a lot of labor to a person to unbolt the plastic. And of course since the plastics from different manufacturers are of different formulations, you have to take even more work sorting them. No, plastic recycling in the auto industry is pretty horrible.  Even steel recycling is getting bad since steel prices have fallen so much, it usually costs as much money to tow the wreck to the junkyard as the junkyard gets out of steel for it. Ted, I guess it boils down to this: You’ve got to be smart enough not to buy a Ford.

:-) There’s no plastic in my ‘68 Torino.  :-) Ted

Response:

…no. Wrecking yards don’t sell head gaskets. But we did play Cadillac 4.1 V8 bingo,

I know a recycling yard owner who flat-out says that the Caddy HT4100 was the single most profitable item that ever passed through his yard in 30 years of business…. on the rare occasions that the HT4100 was not the REASON the car was passing through his yard in the first place. :-P

Response:

Toyota has never had oil problems.

Tell that to Charlene Blake :-p Same as Honda has never had front suspension or transmission problem.

Honda’s 4-speed automatic had a failure rate reportedly as high or higher than Chrysler’s A-604. The only difference is that Honda bends over backward to keep customers happy and avoid recalls- I personally think they go so far that it becomes practically a cover-up operation. The most obvious case (to me) is the early 90s ignitor module problem, where they were quietly replacing ignitors on cars that came in for completely unrelated service. Mitsubuishi also has a history of making trouble free engines.

On what planet?!?!? Good heavens, man, have you never seen blue-smoke-puffing Chrysler minivans or Dodge Dynasties? Every one of them has a Mitsubishi 3-liter v6 under the hood. The ones with Chrysler-built 3.3s never did that. And don’t get me started on the 2.6L 4-cylinder that got a new head casting EVERY YEAR but never got one that didn’t crack. I’ll give Honda rock-solid engines (if not transmissions or chassis), but Mitsu doesn’t even get that much credit.

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And 100 years ago there weren’t any plastics anyway… DAS — For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – would guess that fully 90% will be plastic.  It has to do with weight, and a properly formulated and formed plastic will do just fine, the one of which you speak was poorly conceived. Dan

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We’re arguing over which item is less worse than which other item… You’re right, that is pretty sad. But I bet if you did sell 3.8 head gaskets your phone would be ringing off the hook.

I’m certain the NAPA up the street kept them in deep stock. A lot of people do. More cupholders/ airbags / Jap name plate? Guaranteed winner. If a car "seems like" it doesn’t brake well, when quantitative braking distances say otherwise, it doesn’t matter, what matters is if it "seems" better (usually dependant on nose dive). One of my favorite is apple-orange comparisons.

And one of *my* favorites is enormous differences in the reliability ratings of such identical twins as Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager, Mercury Grand Marquis/Ford Crown Victoria, Chevrolet Caprice/Pontiac Parisienne, Geo Prizm/Toyota Corolla (guess which one was the "much better car"), etc. The major problem was it didn’t contain mystical refinement like all imports do by default.

Ah, yes. That piece of shit ‘90 Jetta we bought on CR’s recommendation was said to "exude quality". Must have been a typo. Should’ve read "exclude". Although I don’t know how you could ever have a problem with an import. So you’re one of the brainwashed, too, then, eh? The non-US carmakers can do no wrong? Horseshit. Volkswagen Jetta. There was a subtle bit of sarcasm in there,

Which I missed entirely. Sorry. But speaking of Jetta. What an overpriced piece of crap! Is there any logical reason why it has such high resale?

Yep. Same reason Apple Computer and Harley-Davidson get away with charging what they do for their products. It’s not just a car, it’s not just a computer, it’s not just a motorcycle…it’s a *lifestyle*. I have two cars that CR (and many others) say should be in the shop, or behind a tow truck more than on the road. Only ever had minor problems.

Likewise. DS (Isn’t it just so much nicer in here now the alleged professor from Emory’s gone away?)

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1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1

  Thank You Phil.  I have been telling people that for years.  A vehicle consists of 1000’s of parts and if just 1 malfunctions (even a little screw loose)(the car-not me) can cause a vehicle to not start or run properly.  We rant and rave about the piece of junk this and piece of junk that.  Calm down and realize Point #1   Fix it or have it fixed and get on with your life.  People complain that they would NEVER BUY another product made by that company because they are all junk. Get real and wake up. The time to complain is when you take it back to get it fixed and the company that made it, is uncoperative. THEN you have a reason to complain.

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1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens.

Very good point. I hate people that take a sample of one, and from that bad mouth a whole brand. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient.

Not true, public transportation breaks down, after all they use buses that are 15 years old and have pretty rough service. I know our city has had a couple of bus fires while in service, and several cases where the bus has to pull over due to low brake pressure. I’ve also been on a bus that broke down no less than 4 times on a 5 day trip. The last one forced us to be stuck at a dirty back woods garage for 3 hours. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1

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Hear hear! DAS — For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling —

1. If it is man-made it will break – period.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1

I would have to agree. I just love it when people say they will never buy chrysler again, but I guess they do not look at the other newgroups. I browse the other two Americans(ford/gm) and they have just as much problems as chrysler does. Granted the problems may be different, but the quantitiy of them is still there. — Nick <Remove number one if replying by electronic mail

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. If it is man-made it will break – period. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. All those who bad mouth a manufacturer or vow never to buy brand X again are a bunch of cry babies. These are the same people who cry because the batteries on the remote control are dead and they have to get off the couch to change channels on the tv. Sure, I’ve had a break down or two over the last 20 years. No big deal. Shit happens. 3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. 4. If NASA, with all of the world’s greatest engineers and billions of dollars build a vehicle which blows up on launch or breaks up on re-entry, you can at least expect your car to do the same or less. Point: See #1 I would have to agree. I just love it when people say they will never buy chrysler again, but I guess they do not look at the other newgroups. I browse the other two Americans(ford/gm) and they have just as much problems as chrysler does. Granted the problems may be different, but the quantitiy of them is still there. — Nick

My Chrysler Jeep Grand Cherokee is a great vehicle and never lets me down.. but take a look at this.. http://4wheeldrive.about.com/cs/buyacaronline/a/usedcarbest_3.htm .. it is rated among the worst..

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3. If you never want to fall victim to an automotive breakdown, take public transit. For those who haven’t, be patient. Not true, public transportation breaks down, after all they use buses that are 15 years old and have pretty rough service. I know our city has had a couple of bus fires while in service, and several cases where the bus has to pull over due to low brake pressure. I’ve also been on a bus that broke down no less than 4 times on a 5 day trip. The last one forced us to be stuck at a dirty back woods garage for 3 hours.

Very true on the public transportation. What I meant is not to fall victim to your own. Who cares if a public transport vehicle breaks. Just transfer to the next one coming along.

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1. If it is man-made it will break – period.

Everything "breaks" ie: goes from a more organized system to chaos over time, this includes lifeforms. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it.

I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic.  Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal.  Never mind that there’s no shortage of metal but there is a shortage of oil that’s used to make the plastic. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended whereas the plastic will sit in a landfill forever.  Never mind that the plastic manifolds cost MORE MONEY than metal ones.  No, this automaker decides to use plastic. Then over time what do you expect – the manifolds start cracking far, far earlier than a metal one would. And this certain automaker rather than admit they were fucking idiots to use plastic, they just stonewall and claim that there’s no problem.  Then they claim that the problem is due to owner abuse. Then they finally admit they were morons but guess what – you still have to pay for a new manifold, unless of course your car is a cop car in which case you get it for free. Yes – cars will break down and we all got to pay homage to the great, all-knowing automakers. Ted

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 1. If it is man-made it will break – period. Everything "breaks" ie: goes from a more organized system to chaos over time, this includes lifeforms. 2. Realize that cars, with 1000’s of moving parts, will break down – regardless of manufacturer. Over the last 100 years, we have spoiled ourselves with technology. We’ve gotten used to the modern marvels of science and technology that we’ve taken it for granted.  If your car breaks down, and it will, accept it. I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic.  Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal.  Never mind that there’s no shortage of metal but there is a shortage of oil that’s used to make the plastic. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended whereas the plastic will sit in a landfill forever.  Never mind that the plastic manifolds cost MORE MONEY than metal ones.  No, this automaker decides to use plastic. Then over time what do you expect – the manifolds start cracking far, far earlier than a metal one would. And this certain automaker rather than admit they were fucking idiots to use plastic, they just stonewall and claim that there’s no problem.  Then they claim that the problem is due to owner abuse. Then they finally admit they were morons but guess what – you still have to pay for a new manifold, unless of course your car is a cop car in which case you get it for free. Yes – cars will break down and we all got to pay homage to the great, all-knowing automakers. Ted

Ted: Take a tour of several different car stores.  Lift the hood on almost any vehicle and tap the intake manifold.  Let us know the stats!  I would guess that fully 90% will be plastic.  It has to do with weight, and a properly formulated and formed plastic will do just fine, the one of which you speak was poorly conceived. Dan

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I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic.

Many automakers have decided it is a great idea to make intake manifolds out of plastic. As long as they are designed, specced, made and installed correctly in accordance with the characteristics of the specific materials used, plastic intake manifolds offer several real advantages over metal ones. However, if an improper material or assembly technique is applied, or if the design of a specific manifold is in some way flawed, then that specific manifold will make problems. However, your next statement is utterly asinine: Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal.

By this "logic", we should all be walking. We did so for thousands of years before the horse-drawn buggy was invented. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended

…as can be a great many different plastic materials… Never mind that the plastic manifolds cost MORE MONEY than metal ones.

For a given level of technology, that’s most certainly not true. It can be much easier, faster and less expensive to cast particularly complex manifolds in plastic than in metal. Then over time what do you expect – the manifolds start cracking far, far earlier than a metal one would.

Improper material selection and/or installation technique. And this certain automaker rather than admit they were fucking idiots to use plastic, they just stonewall and claim that there’s no problem. Then they claim that the problem is due to owner abuse.

Chrysler A604 transmission, Toyota 3.0 V6 engine, Ford 3.0 V6 engine, Ford AXOD transmission, Ford alternator, Ford ignition switch, Ford Explorer, Ford Pinto, Chevrolet Vega, Chevrolet V8 Holley carburetor, Ford intake manifolds, Ford cylinder heads…the list of examples of manufacturers stonewalling and claiming there’s no problem except owner abuse is lengthy and historical even if you omit anything having to do with plastic intake manifolds. Yes – cars will break down and we all got to pay homage to the great, all-knowing automakers.

Ted, I guess it boils down to this: You’ve got to be smart enough not to buy a Ford. DS

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic. Many automakers have decided it is a great idea to make intake manifolds out of plastic. As long as they are designed, specced, made and installed correctly in accordance with the characteristics of the specific materials used, plastic intake manifolds offer several real advantages over metal ones. However, if an improper material or assembly technique is applied, or if the design of a specific manifold is in some way flawed, then that specific manifold will make problems. However, your next statement is utterly asinine: Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal. By this "logic", we should all be walking. We did so for thousands of years before the horse-drawn buggy was invented. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended …as can be a great many different plastic materials… Never mind that the plastic manifolds cost MORE MONEY than metal ones. For a given level of technology, that’s most certainly not true. It can be much easier, faster and less expensive to cast particularly complex manifolds in plastic than in metal. Then over time what do you expect – the manifolds start cracking far, far earlier than a metal one would. Improper material selection and/or installation technique. And this certain automaker rather than admit they were fucking idiots to use plastic, they just stonewall and claim that there’s no problem. Then they claim that the problem is due to owner abuse. Chrysler A604 transmission, Toyota 3.0 V6 engine, Ford 3.0 V6 engine, Ford

The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine. AXOD transmission, Ford alternator, Ford ignition switch, Ford Explorer, Ford Pinto, Chevrolet Vega, Chevrolet V8 Holley carburetor, Ford intake manifolds, Ford cylinder heads…the list of examples of manufacturers stonewalling and claiming there’s no problem except owner abuse is lengthy and historical even if you omit anything having to do with plastic intake manifolds. Yes – cars will break down and we all got to pay homage to the great, all-knowing automakers. Ted, I guess it boils down to this: You’ve got to be smart enough not to buy a Ford.

You’re evidence suggests not buying a domestic in general.

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The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine.

A great many Taurus owners would disagree with you. For a few months, I had a job as a line counterman at a large used auto parts place just outside of Denver. Amusement during work was sparse, so we had to make our own fun. One of the games we played was Taurus Bingo. When the phone rang and the voice on the other end said "Hi, I have a <year Taurus", we’d say "Sorry, we don’t have a working transmission for you." Most of the time, after a bit of shocked silence, the caller would say "Figures. OK, thanks" and hang up. If the caller said "But I don’t need a transmission", most of the time saying "Sorry, we don’t have a 3.0 V6 for you, either" would get "Figures. OK, thanks" and end of call. You’re evidence suggests not buying a domestic in general.

Doesn’t. (And it’s "your", not "you’re". I am not evidence.) I’ve had very good success with domestic cars chosen thoughtfully, and I’ve been bitten hard enough by foreign cars chosen on recommendation of Condemner Retards magazine that I no longer purchase foreign makes. DS

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The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine. A great many Taurus owners would disagree with you. For a few months, I had a job as a line counterman at a large used auto parts place just outside of Denver. Amusement during work was sparse, so we had to make our own fun. One of the games we played was Taurus Bingo. When the phone rang and the voice on the other end said "Hi, I have a <year Taurus", we’d say "Sorry, we don’t have a working transmission for you." Most of the time, after a bit of shocked silence, the caller would say "Figures. OK, thanks" and hang up. If the caller said "But I don’t need a transmission", most of the time saying "Sorry, we don’t have a 3.0 V6 for you, either" would get "Figures. OK, thanks" and end of call.

Ok, the 3.0 might not be perfect, but I think the 3.8 head gasket problem and the AXOD transmission problem is far worse than any 3.0 problems in the Taurus lineup. Reading the Ford newsgroup there isn’t a whole lot of commotion about the 3.0. Any of it seems to be bolts coming loose. The AXOD and 3.8 head gasket has created huge amounts of commotion. Also, wouldn’t you rake in a killing if you had these parts in stock? Or were they just flying off the shelf? Did you ever play A604 bingo? Head gasket bingo? You’re evidence suggests not buying a domestic in general. Doesn’t. (And it’s "your", not "you’re". I am not evidence.)

Caught me on this one, usually I’m more careful. I’ve had very good success with domestic cars chosen thoughtfully, and I’ve been bitten hard enough by foreign cars chosen on recommendation of Condemner Retards magazine that I no longer purchase foreign makes.

CR is the worst piece of garbage to ever exist, possibly worse than Fords. I’ve pretty much given up with most car magazines. For once I agree with your mockery of a name. Although I don’t know how you could ever have a problem with an import. Toyota has never had oil problems. Same as Honda has never had front suspension or transmission problem. Mitsubuishi also has a history of making trouble free engines.

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The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine. A great many Taurus owners would disagree with you. Ok, the 3.0 might not be perfect, but I think the 3.8 head gasket problem and the AXOD transmission problem is far worse than any 3.0 problems in the Taurus lineup.

We’re arguing over which item is less worse than which other item… Also, wouldn’t you rake in a killing if you had these parts in stock?

We couldn’t *keep* those parts in stock. Did you ever play A604 bingo?

You betchya! Head gasket bingo?

…no. Wrecking yards don’t sell head gaskets. But we did play Cadillac 4.1 V8 bingo, and Lincoln air suspension bingo, and Subaru headlight bingo, and all sort of other bingos. CR is the worst piece of garbage to ever exist

Hasn’t always been that way. I bought a 1961 CR issue that had a test of the Dodge Lancer, since I own a 1962 Lancer. WOW. If CR were still this insightful, probing, unbiased and accurate, it would be a useful tool. It has not been for at least two decades. I’ve pretty much given up with most car magazines. For once I agree with your mockery of a name.

Oil filters! Red wine! Lawn mowers! Hamburgers! Headlamps! Word processing software!  Speakers! You name it, they’ll pretend to be experts and contrive "tests" to prove it! Although I don’t know how you could ever have a problem with an import.

So you’re one of the brainwashed, too, then, eh? The non-US carmakers can do no wrong? Horseshit. Volkswagen Jetta. Toyota has never had oil problems.

Wrongo. Premature and prodigious sludge formation in Toyota 3-litre V6s, with resultant engine death. Same as Honda has never had front suspension or transmission problem.

Wrongo again. Honda has had *severe* transmission problems. They’ve handled them a damned sight better than Chrysler handled theirs, but they’ve had ‘em. Mitsubuishi also has a history of making trouble free engines.

Hat trick! Hat trick! Wrong yet again! 3-litre top ends (valve guides, crankcase ventillation systems, general oil sealing). Every first-world manufacturer has put forth good designs and bad ones, built well and built poorly. It’s the well-designed, well-built autos you want to buy, and any other combo you want to avoid. This cannot be done by shopping for a car attached to a "Honda" nameplate. The present Civic, for instance, is an ENORMOUS retrograde step in virtually everything from ergonomics to performance to handling to headlamp output compared to the previous Civic…and none of the new shortcomings has been fixed since the present Civic was released for ‘01. DS

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The Ford 3.8 V6 was the one with the problems, the 3.0 is fine. A great many Taurus owners would disagree with you. Ok, the 3.0 might not be perfect, but I think the 3.8 head gasket problem and the AXOD transmission problem is far worse than any 3.0 problems in the Taurus lineup. We’re arguing over which item is less worse than which other item…

You’re right, that is pretty sad. But I bet if you did sell 3.8 head gaskets your phone would be ringing off the hook. Head gasket bingo? …no. Wrecking yards don’t sell head gaskets.

Too bad, you’d make a killing. Subaru headlight bingo

Subaru? Why would someone need a part for a Subaru? It’s Japanese perfection. DOES NOT COMPUTE!! DOES NOT COMPUTE!!! Oil filters! Red wine! Lawn mowers! Hamburgers! Headlamps! Word processing software!  Speakers! You name it, they’ll pretend to be experts and contrive "tests" to prove it!

A lot of people do. More cupholders/ airbags / Jap name plate? Guaranteed winner. If a car "seems like" it doesn’t brake well, when quantitative braking distances say otherwise, it doesn’t matter, what matters is if it "seems" better (usually dependant on nose dive). One of my favorite is apple-orange comparisons. Comparing a low trimline domestic against a higher trimline import. One example I can think of is the beloved Taurus. It’s base 3.0L 12V V6 puts out ~150HP, so does the 4cyl Camry. The upgraded V6 Taurus, and the V6 Camry put out ~200HP. 0-60 and 1/4 mile times for base-base or upgrade-upgrade are very similar (fraction of a second). Doesn’t mater, the Taurus is anemic and the Camry has great acceleration. Usually because they put a base Taurus against a V6 Camry. Then they count the number of cupholders, airbags, and woodgrain finish for a final count. Comparing the Neon to other cars in its class, it usually wins for 0-60. Same thing, it ends up as the "anemic" one. Fortunately the SRT-4 removes all question. Although I read a review of the 2004 model SRT-4. They started knocking points for problems in the 2003 model, but didn’t notice they were changed for 2004. The major problem was it didn’t contain mystical refinement like all imports do by default. Another bizarre comparison found a high end Echo Hatchback compared with a stripper focus hatch, and a base golf. The echo was almost twice the cost of the focus. Real fair comparison. Although I don’t know how you could ever have a problem with an import. So you’re one of the brainwashed, too, then, eh? The non-US carmakers can do no wrong? Horseshit. Volkswagen Jetta.

There was a subtle bit of sarcasm in there, which is why I cited known examples of Japanese problems. But speaking of Jetta. What an overpriced piece of crap! Is there any logical reason why it has such high resale? Looking in the classifieds, it seems people sell them with 300K  for more than they bought it. Every first-world manufacturer has put forth good designs and bad ones, built well and built poorly. It’s the well-designed, well-built autos you want to buy, and any other combo you want to avoid.

I have two cars that CR (and many others) say should be in the shop, or behind a tow truck more than on the road. Only ever had minor problems.

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And 100 years ago there weren’t any plastics anyway… DAS — For direct contact replace nospam with schmetterling —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – would guess that fully 90% will be plastic.  It has to do with weight, and a properly formulated and formed plastic will do just fine, the one of which you speak was poorly conceived. Dan

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We’re arguing over which item is less worse than which other item… You’re right, that is pretty sad. But I bet if you did sell 3.8 head gaskets your phone would be ringing off the hook.

I’m certain the NAPA up the street kept them in deep stock. A lot of people do. More cupholders/ airbags / Jap name plate? Guaranteed winner. If a car "seems like" it doesn’t brake well, when quantitative braking distances say otherwise, it doesn’t matter, what matters is if it "seems" better (usually dependant on nose dive). One of my favorite is apple-orange comparisons.

And one of *my* favorites is enormous differences in the reliability ratings of such identical twins as Dodge Caravan/Plymouth Voyager, Mercury Grand Marquis/Ford Crown Victoria, Chevrolet Caprice/Pontiac Parisienne, Geo Prizm/Toyota Corolla (guess which one was the "much better car"), etc. The major problem was it didn’t contain mystical refinement like all imports do by default.

Ah, yes. That piece of shit ‘90 Jetta we bought on CR’s recommendation was said to "exude quality". Must have been a typo. Should’ve read "exclude". Although I don’t know how you could ever have a problem with an import. So you’re one of the brainwashed, too, then, eh? The non-US carmakers can do no wrong? Horseshit. Volkswagen Jetta. There was a subtle bit of sarcasm in there,

Which I missed entirely. Sorry. But speaking of Jetta. What an overpriced piece of crap! Is there any logical reason why it has such high resale?

Yep. Same reason Apple Computer and Harley-Davidson get away with charging what they do for their products. It’s not just a car, it’s not just a computer, it’s not just a motorcycle…it’s a *lifestyle*. I have two cars that CR (and many others) say should be in the shop, or behind a tow truck more than on the road. Only ever had minor problems.

Likewise. DS (Isn’t it just so much nicer in here now the alleged professor from Emory’s gone away?)

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…no. Wrecking yards don’t sell head gaskets. But we did play Cadillac 4.1 V8 bingo,

I know a recycling yard owner who flat-out says that the Caddy HT4100 was the single most profitable item that ever passed through his yard in 30 years of business…. on the rare occasions that the HT4100 was not the REASON the car was passing through his yard in the first place. :-P

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Toyota has never had oil problems.

Tell that to Charlene Blake :-p Same as Honda has never had front suspension or transmission problem.

Honda’s 4-speed automatic had a failure rate reportedly as high or higher than Chrysler’s A-604. The only difference is that Honda bends over backward to keep customers happy and avoid recalls- I personally think they go so far that it becomes practically a cover-up operation. The most obvious case (to me) is the early 90s ignitor module problem, where they were quietly replacing ignitors on cars that came in for completely unrelated service. Mitsubuishi also has a history of making trouble free engines.

On what planet?!?!? Good heavens, man, have you never seen blue-smoke-puffing Chrysler minivans or Dodge Dynasties? Every one of them has a Mitsubishi 3-liter v6 under the hood. The ones with Chrysler-built 3.3s never did that. And don’t get me started on the 2.6L 4-cylinder that got a new head casting EVERY YEAR but never got one that didn’t crack. I’ll give Honda rock-solid engines (if not transmissions or chassis), but Mitsu doesn’t even get that much credit.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t have a problem with cars that break down when the breakdown is wear-related but I do have a problem when the breakdown is clearly due to a design stupidity. For example, a certain automaker decides that it would be a great idea to start making intake manifolds out of plastic. Many automakers have decided it is a great idea to make intake manifolds out of plastic. As long as they are designed, specced, made and installed correctly in accordance with the characteristics of the specific materials used, plastic intake manifolds offer several real advantages over metal ones. However, if an improper material or assembly technique is applied, or if the design of a specific manifold is in some way flawed, then that specific manifold will make problems. However, your next statement is utterly asinine: Never mind that for nearly 100 years this automaker and every other automaker has been making intake manifolds out of metal. By this "logic", we should all be walking. We did so for thousands of years before the horse-drawn buggy was invented.

No, not at all.  What I’m saying is the advantages of switching need to be compelling for the customer to be used as a guinea pig. The advantages of driving a car vs walking are very compelling.  Thus, the consumer certainly would have been willing to put up with all the troubles of the first generations of automobiles.  The advantages of using a plastic intake manifold vs a metal one are not.  Thus if the automaker is going to make a change to get some minor (to them) benefit, they better be prepared to make absolutely sure to do it right the first time. Almost certainly if Ford had given a choice to all the new CV owners of whether they could buy a car with an aluminum intake manifold or one with a plastic manifold, the majority of purchasers would have not chosen the plastic manifold if they had been told this was the first year of manufacture. Never mind that the metal can be recycled when the car’s life is ended …as can be a great many different plastic materials…

But they usually aren’t.  You can dump an entire engine into a steel furnace without spending labor disassembling it, and melt it down. You mix it other metals, like aluminum, and you have to dump it into a steel shredder first to pull the ferrous metal out, while this is a bit more expensive, you still can get a pot of molten steel and a pot of molten aluminum without a lot of work. You mix in plastic and now even shredding it, you cannot separate the plastic from the non-ferrous metal, so you end up tossing all that into a furnace, separating the metals out, and what is left over is burned up plastic.  Or you pay a lot of labor to a person to unbolt the plastic. And of course since the plastics from different manufacturers are of different formulations, you have to take even more work sorting them. No, plastic recycling in the auto industry is pretty horrible.  Even steel recycling is getting bad since steel prices have fallen so much, it usually costs as much money to tow the wreck to the junkyard as the junkyard gets out of steel for it. Ted, I guess it boils down to this: You’ve got to be smart enough not to buy a Ford.

:-) There’s no plastic in my ‘68 Torino.  :-) Ted

Response:

There’s no plastic in my ‘68 Torino.  :-)

No need as they were crap to start with, no plastic needed to make them crap!  :-) Matt

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There’s no plastic in my ‘68 Torino.  :-) No need as they were crap to start with, no plastic needed to make them crap!  :-)

Hey now, my first car was a ‘68 Ranchero (Torino from the doors forward)… uhhh… On second thought…. you’re right :-) Still, Ford remains my second choice when Chrysler gets 100% Daimlered to death.

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – There’s no plastic in my ‘68 Torino.  :-) No need as they were crap to start with, no plastic needed to make them crap!  :-) Hey now, my first car was a ‘68 Ranchero (Torino from the doors forward)… uhhh… On second thought…. you’re right :-) Still, Ford remains my second choice when Chrysler gets 100% Daimlered to death.

Really?  For me, GM is clearly the second choice behind Chrysler.  I’m still willing to give Bill Ford a few more years, but I’m completely unimpressed with Ford’s current offerings … other than the new GT40, but who can afford a 150K+ car.. Matt

Response:

Still, Ford remains my second choice when Chrysler gets 100% Daimlered to death. Really?  For me, GM is clearly the second choice behind Chrysler.  I’m still willing to give Bill Ford a few more years, but I’m completely unimpressed with Ford’s current offerings … other than the new GT40, but who can afford a 150K+ car.. Matt

I don’t find most of Ford’s line very exciting either- no way would I own a Taurus, Contour, or Focus. But Fords in general are, IMO, far better built than GM cars. If there were no Chrysler offerings at all and I couldn’t buy a truck/SUV, I’d go get a Mercury Marauder in a heartbeat. Even a plain Crown Vic would sit better with me than a GM product. Same in trucks- if I couldn’t buy a Ram, I’d buy an F-series. The GM C/K series and Suburban have been the top vehicles in Texas Lemon Law claims for YEARS now.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Still, Ford remains my second choice when Chrysler gets 100% Daimlered to death. Really?  For me, GM is clearly the second choice behind Chrysler.  I’m still willing to give Bill Ford a few more years, but I’m completely unimpressed with Ford’s current offerings … other than the new GT40, but who can afford a 150K+ car.. Matt I don’t find most of Ford’s line very exciting either- no way would I own a Taurus, Contour, or Focus. But Fords in general are, IMO, far better built than GM cars. If there were no Chrysler offerings at all and I couldn’t buy a truck/SUV, I’d go get a Mercury Marauder in a heartbeat. Even a plain Crown Vic would sit better with me than a GM product. Same in trucks- if I couldn’t buy a Ram, I’d buy an F-series. The GM C/K series and Suburban have been the top vehicles in Texas Lemon Law claims for YEARS now.

No offense, but I believe your information on quality is dated.  For the last few years most of the GM brands have scored above Ford and Mercury on most quality charts, with Buick scoring above many imports and near the top overall, believe it or not. Matt

Response:

All engines out

Question:

Right hand, just aft of the trailing edge.. JB Jb Thankfully I have never been on board one deployed in anger or for other reason.

It is a  rare occurance, only two come to mind. The Gimli Glider, and a Martinair flight that ended up in BOS in 1996 (see http://aviation-safety.net/database/1996/960528-0.htm. Do any carriers    pop em out every now and then  for  testing or training purposes  ?

No, that is a device that you better only deploy in Anger.

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Right hand, just aft of the trailing edge.. JB Jb Thankfully I have never been on board one deployed in anger or for other reason. It is a  rare occurance, only two come to mind. The Gimli Glider, and a Martinair flight that ended up in BOS in 1996 (see http://aviation-safety.net/database/1996/960528-0.htm. Do any carriers    pop em out every now and then  for  testing or training purposes  ? No, that is a device that you better only deploy in Anger.

    Not in flight.. they are tested on the ground regularly though…. Regards, BB.

Response:

So if I ever see this drop down, I freak out? T.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Right hand, just aft of the trailing edge.. JB No, Matt. There is no external turbine (other than the engines) on the 747. Not for hyraulics or electrics. Nor are there any HMGs.  The 767 is the one with the RAT, right, and it’s somewhere about the left wing root, isn’t it?  http://tinyurl.com/2gysd G

Response:

Right hand, just aft of the trailing edge.. JB

Jb Thankfully I have never been on board one deployed in anger or for other reason. Do any carriers    pop em out every now and then  for  testing or training purposes  ? Cheers  PS  17cal’ decimating cat population at moment only about 50 million to go :(

Response:

No, Matt. There is no external turbine (other than the engines) on the 747. Not for hyraulics or electrics. Nor are there any HMGs.  The 767 is the one with the RAT, right, and it’s somewhere about the left wing root, isn’t it?  http://tinyurl.com/2gysd G

In the body fairing aft of the r/h wing trailing edge. Regards, BB.

Response:

I’m not convinced that the subject aircraft power plants were capable of producing predictable internal pressure due to severe compressor degradation.  Any calculations would surely be guesswork.

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Wind turbine?  Where is that located on the 747? at the rear off the aircraft idiot. havent you ever seen the huge exhast pipe right at the every end tip of the plane? Thats the generator. Geez, you lot are tough.  I didn’t think my query deserved me being called an idiot. But thanks for telling me the APU is the wind turbine.  Very enlightening!

hahahahaha – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

Right hand, just aft of the trailing edge.. JB

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – No, Matt. There is no external turbine (other than the engines) on the 747. Not for hyraulics or electrics. Nor are there any HMGs.  The 767 is the one with the RAT, right, and it’s somewhere about the left wing root, isn’t it?  http://tinyurl.com/2gysd G

Response:

I suggest you do the math on a GE90 or another OPR 42 engine, in fact if you carry out the calculation for an OPR 30 engine when it is 30C outside, you will get close to 1000F ideally,  you probably won’t do quite that well in reality, but make no mistake, it is more than merely toasty warm even before you light the fuel, and when start talking about OPR approaching 50, as I said, I am  not really sure you are going to need an igniter.

I’m not disputing the figures… just saying that you don’t get anything like them for an initial start… Even in a running engine, there is no guarantee that the thing just won’t flame out – for that reason most modern jet engines have some form of automatic relight feature… Back to the BA 747… flying though thick volcanic ash is akin to throwing a lot of sand on a campfire – the temerature may be there but without the airflow it isn’t going to light no matter what you do…. This is one of the reasons water ingestion rarely cause much trouble. That doesn’t require much power 10 joules once per second is 10 watts. Most automotive headlights are about 55 watts. and the storage battery on an automobile will run a pair of them for several hours.

    The spark itself does not last one second… the spark is very brief and intense… To have 10 joules compacted into such a brief period is a necessity to light fuel….  Granted, igniter power requirement alone is small but a 747 (classic) battery is 24V and of only 36Ampere hour capacity (at the one hour rate)… In the event of a total power loss it has to supply a hell of a lot more than just engine ignition – you’d be lucky to get much more than 30mins… Regards, BB.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just reading the account of the 747 that lost all engines flying through the volcanic dust in 1982 .Could someone please explain the following to settle an argument?.To quote from the paragraph ."No 4 engine unexpectedly burst back into life".The question is – How Would the windmilling engine generate enough hp air to enable ignition?.The electrical power was also low so would the igniters have been left on,all through the descent ?.What about the fuel pumps,surely these would have been switched off earlier when engine fire was a possibillity. Thanks in anticipation D.S. I think you’d be surprised at the temperatures reached inside modern jet engines. To be blunt, I am not sure the next generation of commercial jet engines will even need igniters!! (GE90-110B has an overall pressure ratio of 42, even without lighting the fuel, it should reach about 900F in the combustion chamber just from compression )  Overall pressure ratio an RB211-524D is about 30, and some new designs are close to 50, What you have is a very large windmill in front called a fan, and it can generate more than a couple horsepower at 300 kts.    They’re nice figures for an engine which is actually running    You won’t get 900

88 Accord DX–sypmtoms of bad ignitor

Question:

Hi, My engine feels like the ignition is rapidly cutting out and in after a couple hours of driving. I lurch down the road  with the tach oscillating wildly between 2000 and 2500, on a 1 second cycle, and can’t get the engine to go faster even if I floor it. I can stop, open the hood for 5 min, restart and be good for another 20 min. of driving. This has all the symptoms to me of a heat related failure of a solid state component, like the igniter module (although the radio noise condenser is also a candidate). I guess I’ll just have to replace it and see, unless anyone has any other ideas… TIA, JB

Response:

Just an idea. This model uses the reliable NEC igniter which means check the parts surrounding it, loose reluctor, wire connections and your guess the condenser. But the condenser itself is reliable. Anyway, we can’t wait to hear your results. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My engine feels like the ignition is rapidly cutting out and in after a couple hours of driving. I lurch down the road  with the tach oscillating wildly between 2000 and 2500, on a 1 second cycle, and can’t get the engine to go faster even if I floor it. I can stop, open the hood for 5 min, restart and be good for another 20 min. of driving. This has all the symptoms to me of a heat related failure of a solid state component, like the igniter module (although the radio noise condenser is also a candidate). I guess I’ll just have to replace it and see, unless anyone has any other ideas… TIA, JB

Response:

Don’t rule out a clogged fuel filter (your car has 2 of them). When carburator suckes in enough fule to run for a while into its float bowl. When the fule line is not able to replenish it fast enough, your engine will cut out and in as it gets a spirt of gas. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, My engine feels like the ignition is rapidly cutting out and in after a couple hours of driving. I lurch down the road  with the tach oscillating wildly between 2000 and 2500, on a 1 second cycle, and can’t get the engine to go faster even if I floor it. I can stop, open the hood for 5 min, restart and be good for another 20 min. of driving. This has all the symptoms to me of a heat related failure of a solid state component, like the igniter module (although the radio noise condenser is also a candidate). I guess I’ll just have to replace it and see, unless anyone has any other ideas… TIA, JB

Response:

I think it’s a fuel filter, the one over the left rear wheel. Replace that filter and your problem will go away.  While you are at it, replace the other one too.

Response:

Quick follow-up: Just replaced the igniter and coil, based on my Google newsgroups search. Seems like a common problem with Hondas.  Paid $130 for both. It runs–which is always a relief–and I see the replacement, unlike the original, comes with a packet of thermal grease to apply to the igniter heat sink. Seems like a good idea. The true test will come on a long trip. Anyway thanks for all the suggestions.

Response:

Following up again, this did not fix the problem. My hope now lies with a new set of ignition wires, although the old set was only a few years old. A bad coil wire could have been the cause I suppose. We’ll see.

Response:

Following up again, this did not fix the problem. My hope now lies with a new set of ignition wires, although the old set was only a few years old. A bad coil wire could have been the cause I suppose. We’ll see.

Just got in on this thread so you may have already looked at this… My ex-wife’s ‘92 Acura Integra used to eat ignitor’s and coils. About every 15 to 20 thousand miles. The ignitor would go south and trash the coil on it’s way down. The last shop to work on it after we split up said it kept happening because I didn’t use genuine Honda parts. First one went out at @80,000 miles. Von Erik

Response:

Following up again, this did not fix the problem. My hope now lies with a new set of ignition wires, although the old set was only a few years old. A bad coil wire could have been the cause I suppose. We’ll see. Just got in on this thread so you may have already looked at this… My ex-wife’s ‘92 Acura Integra used to eat ignitor’s and coils. About every 15 to 20 thousand miles. The ignitor would go south and trash the coil on it’s way down. The last shop to work on it after we split up said it kept happening because I didn’t use genuine Honda parts. First one went out at @80,000 miles.

Firestone changed out my coil. It failed two months later. They replaced it under warranty. This next one failed at around 15,000 miles. I was having rotor set screw problems and having to mess with this a lot, so this might not have helped the life of the rotor. The independent but Honda-specialized shop I took it to pointed out that the ignitor that was installed was the car’s second and not OEM; big mistake. They put in a new Honda coil but were adamant that I do something about the ignitor, as the malfunctioning coil likely screwed it up, and it was non-OEM and thus likely not all that reliable anyway. The newsgroup supports this view IIRC. I shopped around for an OEM ignitor (online and at the dealer), and ended up buying one and installing it myself. OEM ignitors pay for themselves. They’re not that much more expensive. From the distributor to the spark plug, all my Honda’s parts will now be OEM or as recommended by Honda. The distributor and its various internal parts are the Achille’s heel of Hondas circa 1990. Yesterday I thought I should just carry a whole new distributor (with coil and ignitor, bought online at discount) around in my trunk. IIRC someone here once said they carry a second ignitor in their Honda. Caroline 91 Civic LX 150k miles

Response:

'90 Honda accord quit running

Question:

<… There’s pics and a description of one made by Huco, from a Rover 216GSi, which was a Honda derivative car, here <http://www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm.

That’s me!  It’s unbelievable that the thing works for any length of time at all, with baked carbon-based ink for resistors – all this aggravation because a costing engineer saved 50c on a mini-PCB.:-)

No, the ‘thick-film circuits’ are reliable over quite wide environmental conditions but the 50 cents was saved by not having a ceramic/cement based conformal coating or a silastomer potting (silicone rubber). The article also mentions the flawed OKI part and the well known "reliable" NEC replacement part.

HTH — Graham W   http://www.gcw.org.uk/ XP1800+ Page added, Graphics Tutorial WIMBORNE   http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex Dorset UK  Astro Society’s Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps

Response:

Up to 1989 Accord and up to 1991 Civics uses an optoisolator as the electronic module. Which you say is the same as the ignition module, right? Yes. Yeah, well, I’ve never seen it called the "electronic module."

All right, I lied. I saw it but didn’t put 2 and 2 together. More confusion resulted after reading the following. snip The Electronic Control Module and electronic module (aka ignitor) are different parts? Yes. Electronic Control Module, aka ECU.

ECU = engine control unit, doggone it. English…

Response:

<… There’s pics and a description of one made by Huco, from a Rover 216GSi, which was a Honda derivative car, here <http://www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm. That’s me!

Nice article.  Well done.  It’s unbelievable that the thing works for any length of time at all, with baked carbon-based ink for resistors – all this aggravation because a costing engineer saved 50c on a mini-PCB.:-) No, the ‘thick-film circuits’ are reliable over quite wide environmental conditions but the 50 cents was saved by not having a ceramic/cement based conformal coating or a silastomer potting (silicone rubber).

Ah OK – it just doesn’t sound likely to a non-electronics person that baked ink is the "thing" for precision… but have you found out yet which part of the igniter failed in your case?  They do of course fail in different ways – early models would suddenly just produce a sudden and permanent no-start; later models seem to give intermittent and often temp dependent failures on start or even while running. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Up to 1989 Accord and up to 1991 Civics uses an optoisolator as the electronic module. Which you say is the same as the ignition module, right? The source to trigger is by electromagnetic induction. This source is a "black box" to me. Where is this source in the distributor or on the car so I can put my hands on it? The distributor shaft has three magnetic pick-ups attached to the body and three reluctors on the shaft: a multi-tooth (signals the shaft is turning ?), a single lobe (#1 TDC) and a 4-lobe (the ignition trigger ?).  I’m not 100% sure but it makes sense to me. It makes sense to me, too.

Sorry… I mangled that first part of the sentence – rearranged it and left the word "shaft" as the 3rd word by mistake. I’m sure everyone reading this thread agrees that the signal for triggering the NPN transistor has to ultimately be coming from the engine’s actual timing (camshaft via distributor shaft or similar, etc.). (Sorry, I know that’s basic but just want to ensure all are on the same page.) From the GM drawing at http://www.rustpuppy.org/ignition/Ignition1a.htm , I see the part with the word "vacuum advance" and "pickup coil" next to it and figure this part is some sort of system like what you describe above. (Maybe an older one, and it’s not the one in Hondas?) I gather the "signal converter" that appears to physically lie inside the ignitor is a more "minor component," when it comes to trying to describe the basics of how the whole ignition package works.

It seems similar to the Honda system but from the actual picture I can’t make out the corresponding parts.  The Honda multi-tooth reluctor is well portrayed here: <http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/igniter/ign9.jpg and the pickup is right behind it to the left.  I think I can just make out one of the lobes of another reluctor under the base plate.   There’s also the fact that since that early HEI system, with mechanical and vacuum advance, we now have the variable ignition curve profile(s) in the main ECU, so the reluctor/pickup sensor signal gets sent there first and the igniter is "driven" from there. If there is a signal converter inside the circa 1990-1991 Honda ignitors, then it seems to me this would be consistent with the Honda drawing at http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/igniter/igniter.htm . It shows the "hot" end of electric wires "crossing" the border of the ignitor at more than one place. (Wish I could read the print on this drawing. It might confirm exactly what you say above, George.)

There *is* a bigger picture, here: <http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/igniter/ign-diagram.jpg – the link URL ro it is wrong in the author’s main page. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 90 Accord and 92 Civics to recent uses NPN. The cascade of event begins with an electromagnetic pulse in the distributor. This pulse is sent to the Electronic Control Module.  The ECM converts it to a digital format and analyzed before sending a pulse signal to the electronic module (aka ignitor). The Electronic Control Module and electronic module (aka ignitor) are different parts? What main components are inside a 1990 Accord’s ignitor? There’s pics and a description of one made by Huco, from a Rover 216GSi, which was a Honda derivative car, here <http://www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm. Nice photo of the "guts" of the igniter! Nice site in general for clues on the Honda igniter. The photo matches exactly the old (Firestone-installed replacement and still working at the time but maybe iffy) ignitor I took out of my 1991 Honda Civic a few months ago. I can’t see a manufacturer’s name on mine, which means it’s not an NEC, for one, as I posted months ago, I think. I am thinking of posting this at an electronics newsgroup to get some identification on the bigger parts that appear in the bottom photo. (Though "bigger" might not necessarily translate to "more descriptive of the operation" of the thing.)

The big (power) and small transistor are kinda obvious – no idea what the IC might be. Unless someone knows what’s what in the bottom photo for sure? It’s unbelievable that the thing works for any length of time at all, with baked carbon-based ink for resistors – all this aggravation because a costing engineer saved 50c on a mini-PCB.:-)  The article also mentions the flawed OKI part and the well known "reliable" NEC replacement part. And all that gunk accumulated in the igniter the photo shows and the author of the site talks about. Can’t believe it’s some kind of gel to support the igniter’s operation. How’s that getting in there?

Yep – that’s a mystery.  I wonder if it could be some kind of electrical insulating/thermal conducting material which got broken down with the heat cycles.  The igniter does have an external heatsink plate so the heat has to get to it somehow. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

Response:

message <… There’s pics and a description of one made by Huco, from a Rover 216GSi, which was a Honda derivative car, here <http://www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm. That’s me! Nice article.  Well done.

Thanks! – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –  It’s unbelievable that the thing works for any length of time at all, with baked carbon-based ink for resistors – all this aggravation because a costing engineer saved 50c on a mini-PCB.:-) No, the ‘thick-film circuits’ are reliable over quite wide environmental conditions but the 50 cents was saved by not having a ceramic/cement based conformal coating or a silastomer potting (silicone rubber). Ah OK – it just doesn’t sound likely to a non-electronics person that baked ink is the "thing" for precision…

Good intution there, George.  The  dark (but faint) lines are laser trimming scars which bring the resistor to within a very close tolerance of its design value by measuring its ohmic resistance while laser-cutting! The high temperature baking that happened previous to laser-trimming is the same process that carbon film resistors of the conventional type undergo. but have you found out yet which part of the igniter failed in your case?  They do of course fail in different ways – early models would suddenly just produce a sudden and permanent no-start; later models seem to give intermittent and often temp dependent failures on start or even while running.

This one became reluctant to start in cold weather.  It wasn’t the original part, however.  I’m a pragmatist! "It’s dead, Jim." I haven’t got a test rig to make it work and the new one gets me running again. The small IC is a Telefunken U2226B but I don’t know what is in it and I haven’t seen my TFK databook for 15 years!  Vishay acquired them in 1998. Later today, I’ll put a drawing of the distributor components and wiring (which I got hold of) on my website for download.  I’ll put a link in the text. This shows a how-to for testing. I’ll add a note to this thread when I’ve done it. — Graham W   http://www.gcw.org.uk/ XP1800+ Page added, Graphics Tutorial WIMBORNE   http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex Dorset UK  Astro Society’s Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps

Response:

Up to 1989 Accord and up to 1991 Civics uses an optoisolator as the electronic module. Which you say is the same as the ignition module, right? Yes.

Yeah, well, I’ve never seen it called the "electronic module." – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The source to trigger is by electromagnetic induction. This source is a "black box" to me. Where is this source in the distributor or on the car so I can put my hands on it? See drawing for stator assembly. It can be found surrounding the reluctor, as George mentioned. http://www.inliners.org/tech/images/durasparkwiring.jpg 90 Accord and 92 Civics to recent uses NPN. The cascade of event begins with an electromagnetic pulse in the distributor. This pulse is sent to the Electronic Control Module.  The ECM converts it to a digital format and analyzed before sending a pulse signal to the electronic module (aka ignitor). The Electronic Control Module and electronic module (aka ignitor) are different parts? Yes. Electronic Control Module, aka ECU.

So where is it in the drawings? Or where is it on the car so I can put my hands on it? What main components are inside a 1990 Accord*s ignitor? The HUCO appears to have capacitors, resistors, an optoisolator, and a NPN or FET.

So you’re not sure… (I keep having to restrain myself from dissecting an old 91 Honda Civic ignitor which I have been saving as a spare in my glove compartment, on newsgroup regular Boomer*s orders. ;-) ) One of my NEC ignitor was hammered to find nothing but conductive or semiconductive material. It*s hard to make out a destroyed component. If you*re reffering to the NEC, it*s encased in steel. Good luck opening it.

Noted. :-) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – During&#8230;"on" state, does curent pass from ground to NPN and to the signal converter? No. It passes from the signal converter to ground. &#8220;Electron flow from negative to positive when a voltage is aplied across a conductive or semiconductive material,&#8221; according to a textbook by Prentince Hall. Huh? Are you looking at a description of specifically an NPN transistor? The usual convention in an NPN transistor description is to have current flowing from base to emitter when the transistor is "on." Here, this would be a current flow from base to emitter and then to ground. You*re also correct. College teachers might argue that current flows from emitter to collector – dependent on whether we are discussing electron flow or "hole" flow.

Yup. Like I said, the usual convention is as I described, in college *and* graduate school. Maybe twice in all my college and graduate engineering studies did a professor briefly mention "hole flow." None of the many textbooks I used years ago in my electrical engineering courses used the convention of "hole flow." Then also we could get into the fact that it’s theorized electrons do not flow. They bump against each other. But this is irrelevant as the above two paragraphs. snip

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– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Up to 1989 Accord and up to 1991 Civics uses an optoisolator as the electronic module. Which you say is the same as the ignition module, right? The source to trigger is by electromagnetic induction. This source is a "black box" to me. Where is this source in the distributor or on the car so I can put my hands on it? The distributor shaft has three magnetic pick-ups attached to the body and three reluctors on the shaft: a multi-tooth (signals the shaft is turning ?), a single lobe (#1 TDC) and a 4-lobe (the ignition trigger ?).  I’m not 100% sure but it makes sense to me.

It makes sense to me, too. I’m sure everyone reading this thread agrees that the signal for triggering the NPN transistor has to ultimately be coming from the engine’s actual timing (camshaft via distributor shaft or similar, etc.). (Sorry, I know that’s basic but just want to ensure all are on the same page.) From the GM drawing at http://www.rustpuppy.org/ignition/Ignition1a.htm , I see the part with the word "vacuum advance" and "pickup coil" next to it and figure this part is some sort of system like what you describe above. (Maybe an older one, and it’s not the one in Hondas?) I gather the "signal converter" that appears to physically lie inside the ignitor is a more "minor component," when it comes to trying to describe the basics of how the whole ignition package works. If there is a signal converter inside the circa 1990-1991 Honda ignitors, then it seems to me this would be consistent with the Honda drawing at http://www.markl.f9.co.uk/howto/electrical/igniter/igniter.htm . It shows the "hot" end of electric wires "crossing" the border of the ignitor at more than one place. (Wish I could read the print on this drawing. It might confirm exactly what you say above, George.) 90 Accord and 92 Civics to recent uses NPN. The cascade of event begins with an electromagnetic pulse in the distributor. This pulse is sent to the Electronic Control Module.  The ECM converts it to a digital format and analyzed before sending a pulse signal to the electronic module (aka ignitor). The Electronic Control Module and electronic module (aka ignitor) are different parts? What main components are inside a 1990 Accord’s ignitor? There’s pics and a description of one made by Huco, from a Rover 216GSi, which was a Honda derivative car, here <http://www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm.

Nice photo of the "guts" of the igniter! Nice site in general for clues on the Honda igniter. The photo matches exactly the old (Firestone-installed replacement and still working at the time but maybe iffy) ignitor I took out of my 1991 Honda Civic a few months ago. I can’t see a manufacturer’s name on mine, which means it’s not an NEC, for one, as I posted months ago, I think. I am thinking of posting this at an electronics newsgroup to get some identification on the bigger parts that appear in the bottom photo. (Though "bigger" might not necessarily translate to "more descriptive of the operation" of the thing.) Unless someone knows what’s what in the bottom photo for sure? It’s unbelievable that the thing works for any length of time at all, with baked carbon-based ink for resistors – all this aggravation because a costing engineer saved 50c on a mini-PCB.:-)  The article also mentions the flawed OKI part and the well known "reliable" NEC replacement part.

And all that gunk accumulated in the igniter the photo shows and the author of the site talks about. Can’t believe it’s some kind of gel to support the igniter’s operation. How’s that getting in there?

Response:

Up to 1989 Accord and up to 1991 Civics uses an optoisolator as the electronic module. Which you say is the same as the ignition module, right? The source to trigger is by electromagnetic induction. This source is a "black box" to me. Where is this source in the distributor or on the car so I can put my hands on it?

The distributor shaft has three magnetic pick-ups attached to the body and three reluctors on the shaft: a multi-tooth (signals the shaft is turning ?), a single lobe (#1 TDC) and a 4-lobe (the ignition trigger ?).  I’m not 100% sure but it makes sense to me. 90 Accord and 92 Civics to recent uses NPN. The cascade of event begins with an electromagnetic pulse in the distributor. This pulse is sent to the Electronic Control Module.  The ECM converts it to a digital format and analyzed before sending a pulse signal to the electronic module (aka ignitor). The Electronic Control Module and electronic module (aka ignitor) are different parts? What main components are inside a 1990 Accord’s ignitor?

There’s pics and a description of one made by Huco, from a Rover 216GSi, which was a Honda derivative car, here <http://www.gcw.org.uk/rover/igniter.htm.  It’s unbelievable that the thing works for any length of time at all, with baked carbon-based ink for resistors – all this aggravation because a costing engineer saved 50c on a mini-PCB.:-)  The article also mentions the flawed OKI part and the well known "reliable" NEC replacement part. Rgds, George Macdonald "Just because they’re paranoid doesn’t mean you’re not psychotic" – Who, me??

Response:

Up to 1989 Accord and up to 1991 Civics uses an optoisolator as the electronic module. Which you say is the same as the ignition module, right?

Yes. The source to trigger is by electromagnetic induction. This source is a "black box" to me. Where is this source in the distributor or on the car so I can put my hands on it?

See drawing for stator assembly. It can be found surrounding the reluctor, as George mentioned. http://www.inliners.org/tech/images/durasparkwiring.jpg 90 Accord and 92 Civics to recent uses NPN. The cascade of event begins with an electromagnetic pulse in the distributor. This pulse is sent to the Electronic Control Module.  The ECM converts it to a digital format and analyzed before sending a pulse signal to the electronic module (aka ignitor). The Electronic Control Module and electronic module (aka ignitor) are different parts?

Yes. Electronic Control Module, aka ECU. What main components are inside a 1990 Accord*s ignitor?

The HUCO appears to have capacitors, resistors, an optoisolator, and a NPN or FET. (I keep having to restrain myself from dissecting an old 91 Honda Civic ignitor which I have been saving as a spare in my glove compartment, on newsgroup regular Boomer*s orders. ;-) )

One of my NEC ignitor was hammered to find nothing but conductive or semiconductive material. It*s hard to make out a destroyed component. If you*re reffering to the NEC, it*s encased in steel. Good luck opening it. During

Toro Pro 37 Won't Re-Start

Question:

I have a coworker with one of the subject mowers.  When cold, it starts fine and runs well.  The problems start if he has to stop mowing for a short while and sets it to idle.  It eventually will die when idling, and absolutely will not start.  He’s pulled the plug and turned it over after heating up and there is no spark at the plug which makes us wonder if it’s an ignition problem.  If he lets it cool back down, it will start right up. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. -John Scheihing

Response:

I have a coworker with one of the subject mowers.  When cold, it starts fine and runs well.  The problems start if he has to stop mowing for a short while and sets it to idle.  It eventually will die when idling, and absolutely will not start.  He’s pulled the plug and turned it over after heating up and there is no spark at the plug which makes us wonder if it’s an ignition problem.  If he lets it cool back down, it will start right up. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. -John Scheihing

No familiarity with this particular model, but ignition modules have a habit of failing only when hot.  It presents a really maddening problem to troubleshoot.

Response:

I once slaved over a LawnBoy 2cycle mower that would start fine (After fixing the carburetor primer leaks) and would run for a while, then once stopped, would not start for half an hour. Changed everything that cost $30 or less, which is a lot on such a tiny engine. Eventually I ended up working on it after dark and noticed a soft clicking sound that shouldn’t have been there, plus a blue/white spark between the ignition coil and the iron core it was wound around. BINGO ! It was arcing to ground when hot. $80 later and it’s been running fine for 8 years. I’d replace the points and condenser first, if it has them. You didn’t say what make engine this is, so I can’t be more specific. Most newer B&S engines have done away with the points and condenser and everything is in the coil (magneto), so by replacing that you get a completely new ignition system. But be sure that’s really the problem by ruling out everything else. Remember, you need four things for the engine to run: compression, air, fuel, and spark. But in your case with no spark when hot, I’d go with the coil. Bob M. ======

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a coworker with one of the subject mowers.  When cold, it starts fine and runs well.  The problems start if he has to stop mowing for a short while and sets it to idle.  It eventually will die when idling, and absolutely will not start.  He’s pulled the plug and turned it over after heating up and there is no spark at the plug which makes us wonder if it’s an ignition problem.  If he lets it cool back down, it will start right up. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. -John Scheihing

Response:

I have a coworker with one of the subject mowers.  When cold, it starts fine and runs well.  The problems start if he has to stop mowing for a short while and sets it to idle.  It eventually will die when idling, and absolutely will not start.  He’s pulled the plug and turned it over after heating up and there is no spark at the plug which makes us wonder if it’s an ignition problem.  If he lets it cool back down, it will start right up.

  a 37" proline??  probably has a kawasaki engine on it, maybe an fc420 or 460?   they are known for ignitors going bad. it’s either the ignitor or coil, unfortunately they are both about 75.00 or more each.  i always kept a good ignitor in my box for testing.    if it has a different engine, then it may not have an ignitor.  let us know which engine he got on this machine.               Chip

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