Question:

Hi, Lubriplate(aka white grease ) or Liquid wrench which contains Teflon. Tony – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hi all, my furnace fan has been having problems lately, basically it makes somewhat of a growling sound on the initial start for about 3 or 4 seconds then works fine.  this also occured about 2 years ago and i was able to take the motor apart, clean the shaft and bearings, lubricate, then reassemble and worked fine. yesterday i took it apart, went to the local hardware store and was recommended  a product something like wd-40 but supposedly leaves a thin teflon coating, unfortunately i forgot what i used last time.   after putting it back together it worked fine for 12 hours, now it is starting to growl again… further,  i just turned off the breaker thinking maybe it wouldn’t start and burn up the windings. anyone have any clues as far as what lubricant to use?    i realize the real answer is to replace the motor but i am planning on replacing my furnace this fall. thanks in advance dennis meissner

Response:

first of all, thanks for all the responses. I tried to get that royal purple, or lubriplate but was unsuccessful.  I did buy some synthetic disk brake lube (something like permatex ultimate brake lube)  that was told it was basically the same as lubriplate.  I again painstakenly took my blower motor apart and lubed the bearings on both ends. seems to be running great!  not even a hint of a growl… starts right up! think the next time I take it apart I will be replacing the entire furnace. Dennis

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hi all, my furnace fan has been having problems lately, basically it makes somewhat of a growling sound on the initial start for about 3 or 4 seconds then works fine.  this also occured about 2 years ago and i was able to take the motor apart, clean the shaft and bearings, lubricate, then reassemble and worked fine. yesterday i took it apart, went to the local hardware store and was recommended  a product something like wd-40 but supposedly leaves a thin teflon coating, unfortunately i forgot what i used last time.   after putting it back together it worked fine for 12 hours, now it is starting to growl again… further,  i just turned off the breaker thinking maybe it wouldn’t start and burn up the windings. anyone have any clues as far as what lubricant to use?    i realize the real answer is to replace the motor but i am planning on replacing my furnace this fall. thanks in advance dennis meissner

Response:

hi all, my furnace fan has been having problems lately, basically it makes somewhat of a growling sound on the initial start for about 3 or 4 seconds then works fine.  this also occured about 2 years ago and i was able to take the motor apart, clean the shaft and bearings, lubricate, then reassemble and worked fine. yesterday i took it apart, went to the local hardware store and was recommended  a product something like wd-40 but supposedly leaves a thin teflon coating, unfortunately i forgot what i used last time.   after putting it back together it worked fine for 12 hours, now it is starting to growl again… further,  i just turned off the breaker thinking maybe it wouldn’t start and burn up the windings. anyone have any clues as far as what lubricant to use?    i realize the real answer is to replace the motor but i am planning on replacing my furnace this fall. thanks in advance dennis meissner

Response:

The time for lube is over… First of all…it sounds like you never had a lube problem, but a cap problem. Since I can not check it from here, and have your description to go on only, its clear to me that if you DID have a lube problem, you ruined all hope of saving the motor when you did not use the correct oil, 20W. We replace about 10 to 15 motors a year that someone used that crappy teflon sh*t in the hopes of making the motor last. Since you are planning on replacement of the furnace in the fall…why dont you call the company out that is going to do the work, and if they have any sense of customer apprication about them, the cost of the motor spent today, will be kicked back to you in the fall.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hi all, my furnace fan has been having problems lately, basically it makes somewhat of a growling sound on the initial start for about 3 or 4 seconds then works fine.  this also occured about 2 years ago and i was able to take the motor apart, clean the shaft and bearings, lubricate, then reassemble and worked fine. yesterday i took it apart, went to the local hardware store and was recommended  a product something like wd-40 but supposedly leaves a thin teflon coating, unfortunately i forgot what i used last time.   after putting it back together it worked fine for 12 hours, now it is starting to growl again… further,  i just turned off the breaker thinking maybe it wouldn’t start and burn up the windings. anyone have any clues as far as what lubricant to use?    i realize the real answer is to replace the motor but i am planning on replacing my furnace this fall. thanks in advance dennis meissner

Response:

As far as motor lubricant, the best is Royal Purple’s Synfilm ISO 68 synthetic.  You could also use 20W non detergent motor oil or even 3 in 1’s electric motor oil.  DON’T USE WD40!!!  It’s a penetrant vs. a lubricant. I also wouldn’t use any marketing gimmick w/Teflon. That sound could be a result of bearing wear or could be noise from a dirty centrifical switch inside the motor. (The centrifical switch signals to the furnace that the motor is turning and it’s OK to energize the heating elements.  Without it, your furnace could overheat in the event of motor failure.) Motor bearing’s wear in a very distinctive pattern.  If you can change the wear pattern by altering the position of the bearings, than you might get a little more life out of the motor.  It’s dependent on the motor buy maybe you can rotate one sleeve bearing 180 degrees.  That will throw the eliptical wear pattern out of whack and will close up the excessive clearance and perform like a new bearing set. (However, it won’t last near as long as new!!) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hi all, my furnace fan has been having problems lately, basically it makes somewhat of a growling sound on the initial start for about 3 or 4 seconds then works fine.  this also occured about 2 years ago and i was able to take the motor apart, clean the shaft and bearings, lubricate, then reassemble and worked fine. yesterday i took it apart, went to the local hardware store and was recommended  a product something like wd-40 but supposedly leaves a thin teflon coating, unfortunately i forgot what i used last time.   after putting it back together it worked fine for 12 hours, now it is starting to growl again… further,  i just turned off the breaker thinking maybe it wouldn’t start and burn up the windings. anyone have any clues as far as what lubricant to use?    i realize the real answer is to replace the motor but i am planning on replacing my furnace this fall. thanks in advance dennis meissner

Response:

As far as motor lubricant, the best is Royal Purple’s Synfilm ISO 68 synthetic.  You could also use 20W non detergent motor oil or even 3 in 1’s electric motor oil.  DON’T USE WD40!!!  It’s a penetrant vs. a lubricant. I also wouldn’t use any marketing gimmick w/Teflon.

Agreed… That sound could be a result of bearing wear or could be noise from a dirty centrifical switch inside the motor.

ahhh….if its a direct drive….not a chance. Dont know of a single one that is PSC that uses those in HVAC application on direct drive. (The centrifical switch signals to the furnace that the motor is turning and it’s OK to energize the heating elements.  Without it, your furnace could overheat in the event of motor failure.)

And even in the case of direct drive….no. Electric units use a set of time relays, or other devices to start the electric strips. As far as overload protection there is a little deal called a micro-temp fuse link that is common in electric units, or other form of heat limit switch that will cut the unit off should there be a lack of fan, or, lack of airflow. Motor bearing’s wear in a very distinctive pattern.  If you can change the wear pattern by altering the position of the bearings, than you might get a little more life out of the motor.  It’s dependent on the motor buy maybe you can rotate one sleeve bearing 180 degrees.  That will throw the eliptical wear pattern out of whack and will close up the excessive clearance and perform like a new bearing set. (However, it won’t last near as long as new!!)

Or roar like a sob due to shaft wear.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – hi all, my furnace fan has been having problems lately, basically it makes somewhat of a growling sound on the initial start for about 3 or 4 seconds then works fine.  this also occured about 2 years ago and i was able to take the motor apart, clean the shaft and bearings, lubricate, then reassemble and worked fine. yesterday i took it apart, went to the local hardware store and was recommended  a product something like wd-40 but supposedly leaves a thin teflon coating, unfortunately i forgot what i used last time.   after putting it back together it worked fine for 12 hours, now it is starting to growl again… further,  i just turned off the breaker thinking maybe it wouldn’t start and burn up the windings. anyone have any clues as far as what lubricant to use?    i realize the real answer is to replace the motor but i am planning on replacing my furnace this fall. thanks in advance dennis meissner

Response:

Question:

Humidity – Since it is colder, I didn’t realize that the new dehumidifier won’t operate below 65 degrees. The old dehumidifier had a de-icer that allowed it to run down to 55 degrees. Do the latest Sears dehumidifiers have this 55 degree feature?

Your dehumidifier is not designed to control humidity in the winter, that is why it is icing up. You need to ventilate your house. The old furnace most likely had a pilot light and a B-vent while the new furnace is induced draft. You need mechanical ventilation to control your humidity in the winter. Run your Kenmore in the summer.

Response:

It’s hard to heat basements.  Cold air falls! Try putting in a seperate gas heater and vent it out the same place you vent the furnance.  You will save $$$ in the end and have better control over the heat. Good luck

Response:

I AGREE KEN  NO NEED TO GO THRU ALL THAT ZONING CRAP

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – It’s hard to heat basements.  Cold air falls! Try putting in a seperate gas heater and vent it out the same place you vent the furnance.  You will save $$$ in the end and have better control over the heat. Good luck

Response:

Why don’t you ask your friends neighbor?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll make this as short as possible. 1. Old furnace (RUDD) – installed by builder in basement (1987) – 150,000 btu. 2. Furnace had bottom cut out (by the builder’s installer – out of business now) and a filter installed in addition to the return air ducts from upstairs. (At the time I did not know this was bad – neither did the inspectors). 3. Finished the basement, insulated walls, etc. – added 1 heat duct – did not add a return duct. The furnace was the return. 4. Bought Sears 40 pint dehumidifier (1987). 5. Had furnace problems Feb of 2001. HVAC guy (friend of neighbor) said – original furnace was almost 60,000 BTUs TOO BIG. We concluded that the original installer knew that the furnace was too big for the returns so they removed the bottom of the furnace (it was up on blocks.) All of the homes in the subdivision had these monsters… 6. Installed new 96,000 btu furnace – all ok (the upstairs return air filter actually gets dirty much quicker now). 7. Bought new 65 pint Sears dehumidifier – old one died. Questions: – The basement is noticeably colder with the new furnace. – Is it because there is no return air vents? – If so, can I safely add a return duct to the finished part of the basement? It would be on the opposite wall of the heat duct – a separate room away from the furnace. Humidity – Since it is colder, I didn’t realize that the new dehumidifier won’t operate below 65 degrees. The old dehumidifier had a de-icer that allowed it to run down to 55 degrees. Do the latest Sears dehumidifiers have this 55 degree feature? Thanks!

Response:

Get this professionally installed the duct needs to be balanced to correctly work with the rest of the house. If you don’t get it professionally installed, I would at the least put the duct work in then have the system balanced.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll make this as short as possible. 1. Old furnace (RUDD) – installed by builder in basement (1987) – 150,000 btu. 2. Furnace had bottom cut out (by the builder’s installer – out of business now) and a filter installed in addition to the return air ducts from upstairs. (At the time I did not know this was bad – neither did the inspectors). 3. Finished the basement, insulated walls, etc. – added 1 heat duct – did not add a return duct. The furnace was the return. 4. Bought Sears 40 pint dehumidifier (1987). 5. Had furnace problems Feb of 2001. HVAC guy (friend of neighbor) said – original furnace was almost 60,000 BTUs TOO BIG. We concluded that the original installer knew that the furnace was too big for the returns so they removed the bottom of the furnace (it was up on blocks.) All of the homes in the subdivision had these monsters… 6. Installed new 96,000 btu furnace – all ok (the upstairs return air filter actually gets dirty much quicker now). 7. Bought new 65 pint Sears dehumidifier – old one died. Questions: – The basement is noticeably colder with the new furnace. – Is it because there is no return air vents? – If so, can I safely add a return duct to the finished part of the basement? It would be on the opposite wall of the heat duct – a separate room away from the furnace. Humidity – Since it is colder, I didn’t realize that the new dehumidifier won’t operate below 65 degrees. The old dehumidifier had a de-icer that allowed it to run down to 55 degrees. Do the latest Sears dehumidifiers have this 55 degree feature? Thanks!

Response:

I’ll make this as short as possible. 1. Old furnace (RUDD) – installed by builder in basement (1987) – 150,000 btu. 2. Furnace had bottom cut out (by the builder’s installer – out of business now) and a filter installed in addition to the return air ducts from upstairs. (At the time I did not know this was bad – neither did the inspectors). 3. Finished the basement, insulated walls, etc. – added 1 heat duct – did not add a return duct. The furnace was the return. 4. Bought Sears 40 pint dehumidifier (1987). 5. Had furnace problems Feb of 2001. HVAC guy (friend of neighbor) said – original furnace was almost 60,000 BTUs TOO BIG. We concluded that the original installer knew that the furnace was too big for the returns so they removed the bottom of the furnace (it was up on blocks.) All of the homes in the subdivision had these monsters… 6. Installed new 96,000 btu furnace – all ok (the upstairs return air filter actually gets dirty much quicker now). 7. Bought new 65 pint Sears dehumidifier – old one died. Questions: – The basement is noticeably colder with the new furnace. – Is it because there is no return air vents? – If so, can I safely add a return duct to the finished part of the basement? It would be on the opposite wall of the heat duct – a separate room away from the furnace. Humidity – Since it is colder, I didn’t realize that the new dehumidifier won’t operate below 65 degrees. The old dehumidifier had a de-icer that allowed it to run down to 55 degrees. Do the latest Sears dehumidifiers have this 55 degree feature? Thanks!

Response:

A return air duct (or two of them) at the basement floor level will help your situation.  You may also want to have a 2 speed furnace fan motor with the fan set to run on low all the time.  This helps balance the temp. – but it does increase your electricity bill. — Roger in Winnipeg

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I’ll make this as short as possible. 1. Old furnace (RUDD) – installed by builder in basement (1987) – 150,000 btu. 2. Furnace had bottom cut out (by the builder’s installer – out of business now) and a filter installed in addition to the return air ducts from upstairs. (At the time I did not know this was bad – neither did the inspectors). 3. Finished the basement, insulated walls, etc. – added 1 heat duct – did not add a return duct. The furnace was the return. 4. Bought Sears 40 pint dehumidifier (1987). 5. Had furnace problems Feb of 2001. HVAC guy (friend of neighbor) said – original furnace was almost 60,000 BTUs TOO BIG. We concluded that the original installer knew that the furnace was too big for the returns so they removed the bottom of the furnace (it was up on blocks.) All of the homes in the subdivision had these monsters… 6. Installed new 96,000 btu furnace – all ok (the upstairs return air filter actually gets dirty much quicker now). 7. Bought new 65 pint Sears dehumidifier – old one died. Questions: – The basement is noticeably colder with the new furnace. – Is it because there is no return air vents? – If so, can I safely add a return duct to the finished part of the basement? It would be on the opposite wall of the heat duct – a separate room away from the furnace. Humidity – Since it is colder, I didn’t realize that the new dehumidifier won’t operate below 65 degrees. The old dehumidifier had a de-icer that allowed it to run down to 55 degrees. Do the latest Sears dehumidifiers have this 55 degree feature? Thanks!

Response:

Question:

I’ve had mine for a few years.  Put a 1/3 hp furnace fan motor on it, and have had  fine time.  I use it for a wide variety of metal shaping chores, not just sharpening.  I use three grits to sharpen chisels and plane irons.  I start with 120 grit, and use a guide bock to get the basic 25 deg angle set in.  I go to about 600 grit to get a very polished surface on the whole bevel, then change to a 30 deg guide block to get a micro bevel.  Finally, I go to a leather belt with the green honing compound to get a very sharp edge – shave with it no problem!   takes about 5 minutes per blade unless your restoring a well notched flea-market special.   Brian – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Got one and love it (well sorta).  Use a motor that can run in both directions.  I made some minor mods to the tool rest.  Changed the tilt lock a little.  Added a feed screw adjustment  for the tool rest and made some custom tool rests.   I am thinking about puting a thin rubber tire on the upper wheel for hollow grinds.  With the right belts and rests (very quick to change) I can sharpen axes to carving tools, pocket knives to long planer blades, grind steel bar stock to lathe tools.   I understand that you can even get diamond belts to sharpen carbide.  I hardly ever use my wheel grinder anymore.  I do use the "scary sharp" system for the backs of chisels and plane irons. I am considering the purchase of the 1" wide belt sander from Lee Valley to use for my sharpening and grinding chores.  Has anyone out there ever used this machine.  I notice that Leonard Lee in his book on sharpening basically recommends either a slow speed grinder or this belt sander. If anyone has experience with this or similar machines for grinding or sharpening plane blades, chisels, etc.  please comment.

Response:

I have one, too, and it has become my most useful sharpening device. What I did was to put a double-shaft motor on mine, which required drilling a hole in the side plate, since the motor was too large to insert  the shaft  for the "standard" rise. This necessitated raising the assembly which holds the upper wheel an inch or so.  No problems, took maybe an hour. The benefit of the outboard shaft extension  is that I have mounted a six inch Lee Valley felt buffing wheel to it. So, depending on what you are doing, grind on the belt, or turn  the machine front to back,and  buff on the wheel….fast, efficient and very effective.  Yours, Walt "Out of the crooked timber of humanity no straight thing was ever made."-Immanuel Kant

Response:

I am considering the purchase of the 1" wide belt sander from Lee Valley to use for my sharpening and grinding chores.  Has anyone out there ever used this machine.  I notice that Leonard Lee in his book on sharpening basically recommends either a slow speed grinder or this belt sander. If anyone has experience with this or similar machines for grinding or sharpening plane blades, chisels, etc.  please comment.

Response:

I am considering the purchase of the 1" wide belt sander from Lee Valley to use for my sharpening and grinding chores.  Has anyone out there ever used this machine.  I notice that Leonard Lee in his book on sharpening basically recommends either a slow speed grinder or this belt sander. If anyone has experience with this or similar machines for grinding or sharpening plane blades, chisels, etc.  please comment.

Randy, I’ve got a delta belt sander with a 1" by 30" belt. Got the leather belt from Lee Valley. It works great especially on things like knife blades and other odd cutting devices. It can round the edges of chisels pretty quick so be careful and take it a little at a time. With chisels, I use the leather belt to just touch up the edge. I also got some of the 1" by 30" 5 micron and 15 micron belts. These belts make very quick work of preparing a rough edge for polishing, but it removes metal very fast. I’ve been having trouble sharping the blade on a Stanley hand router plane (no electricity required). I just couldn’t get the blade sharp because of the odd angle of the blade and I couldn’t hold it steadily enough on a stone. Two minutes on the leather belt and I think I could shave with it!

Response:

Randy I assume your talking about the 42" made by Viel in Quebec. I got one a couple of years ago and am very happy with it. I don’t own a grinder and I use it for all of my shop needs. The belts last forever. Material removal is fast. I don’t use it on wood very much. I’m sure it would be OK on wood with a coarse belt. It takes about 2 seconds to flatten a scraper. I’ve not had any problem with overheating metals. Seems like a good buy if you already have a motor around.

Tony Freisinger – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -I am considering the purchase of the 1" wide belt sander from Lee Valley to use for my sharpening and grinding chores.  Has anyone out there ever used this machine.  I notice that Leonard Lee in his book on sharpening basically recommends either a slow speed grinder or this belt sander. If anyone has experience with this or similar machines for grinding or sharpening plane blades, chisels, etc.  please comment.

Response:

I am considering the purchase of the 1" wide belt sander from Lee Valley to use for my sharpening and grinding chores.  Has anyone out there ever used this machine.  I notice that Leonard Lee in his book on sharpening basically recommends either a slow speed grinder or this belt sander. If anyone has experience with this or similar machines for grinding or sharpening plane blades, chisels, etc.  please comment.

The little 1" belt sanders are outstanding to use. One company I worked for years ago had a bench model and it was used for nearly everything by nearly everyone in the shop. I didn’t have real fine belts for it, so I don’t know how it’d work to sharpen fine tools, but the large Shopsmith belt sander with a 6" 330 grit belt took my kitchen knife down from a 10" killer to a 2" Murphy-style carving knife shape + basic sharp. Lots of stone work has gone on from there and I’m about to Scary Sharp(tm) it. I wholeheartedly say "Go for it!"      Save the Endangered Boullions from being cubed! http://diversify.com/ljaques/stees.html  Hilarious T-shirts online

Response:

I am considering the purchase of the 1" wide belt sander from Lee Valley If anyone has experience with this or similar machines for grinding or sharpening plane blades, chisels, etc.  please comment.

The little 1" belt sanders are outstanding to use. One company I worked for years ago had a bench model and it was used for nearly everything by nearly everyone in the shop. I didn’t have real fine belts for it, so I don’t know how it’d work to sharpen fine tools, but the large Shopsmith belt sander with a 6" 330 grit belt took my kitchen knife down from a 10" killer to a 2" Murphy-style carving knife shape + basic sharp. Lots of stone work has gone on from there and I’m about to Scary Sharp(tm) it. I wholeheartedly say "Go for it!"      Save the Endangered Boullions from being cubed! http://diversify.com/ljaques/stees.html  Hilarious T-shirts online

Response:

Got one and love it (well sorta).  Use a motor that can run in both directions.  I made some minor mods to the tool rest.  Changed the tilt lock a little.  Added a feed screw adjustment  for the tool rest and made some custom tool rests.   I am thinking about puting a thin rubber tire on the upper wheel for hollow grinds.  With the right belts and rests (very quick to change) I can sharpen axes to carving tools, pocket knives to long planer blades, grind steel bar stock to lathe tools.   I understand that you can even get diamond belts to sharpen carbide.  I hardly ever use my wheel grinder anymore.  I do use the "scary sharp" system for the backs of chisels and plane irons. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I am considering the purchase of the 1" wide belt sander from Lee Valley to use for my sharpening and grinding chores.  Has anyone out there ever used this machine.  I notice that Leonard Lee in his book on sharpening basically recommends either a slow speed grinder or this belt sander. If anyone has experience with this or similar machines for grinding or sharpening plane blades, chisels, etc.  please comment.

Response:

Question:

I had the same problem. I had worked on the furnace myself and a few weeks later it started making noise and slowed down. I had not properly tightened one of the allen screws holding one of the squirl-cage fans. After it slows down enough the switch that makes sure the fan is running will send a signal to the control board and no more heat! The fix is not difficult, but taking the furnace out and disassembling it involve very close quarters and many skinned and cut fingers. Good luck. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Today my furnace came on and was making alot of niose, fan motor noise.  It sounded as if it was not up to speed.  I turned it off because I had to leave anyway. Came home tonight and it was doing the same thing.  I checked fuses and inverter and everything was fine. My lights work although they were dimming some when the furnace fan was on.  I just had the furnace gas problem fixed about two weeks ago. I thought it might be the same with the waterpump.  So I tried it out. My waterpump motor seems to be up to speed. Why would be furnace fan motor be running like that suddenly? Any suggestions? Don _)_)_) _)_)_)                    Don Reasons _)_)_)                     Gal. 2:20 _)_)_) _)_)_)              I RV, therefore, I "R" _)_)_) _)_) _)       Please visit —- http://www.petloss.com/rainbowb.htm                            Remembering Shadow                       July 1984 – November 13, 1997                        A Tribute To The Sweetest,                        Most Perfect Dog In Heaven   I explained to St. Peter   I’d rather stay here.   Right by the pearly gate.   I won’t be a nuisance,   I won’t even bark,   I’ll be very patient and wait.   I’ll be here, chewing a celestial bone,   No matter how long you may be.   I’d miss you so much, if I went in alone,   It wouldn’t be heaven for me.   -unknown

–                   |   |   |       | |                  |

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Today my furnace came on and was making alot of niose, fan motor noise.  It sounded as if it was not up to speed.  I turned it off because I had to leave anyway. Came home tonight and it was doing the same thing.  I checked fuses and inverter and everything was fine.   My lights work although they were dimming some when the furnace fan was on.  I just had the furnace gas problem fixed about two weeks ago. I thought it might be the same with the waterpump.  So I tried it out. My waterpump motor seems to be up to speed.   Why would be furnace fan motor be running like that suddenly? Any suggestions? Don

You need a new blower motor, and if your in an area where you need heat, you should change it quickly.  When they get that bad, there isn’t much time left. Mark

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Today my furnace came on and was making alot of niose, fan motor noise.  It sounded as if it was not up to speed.  I turned it off because I had to leave anyway. Came home tonight and it was doing the same thing.  I checked fuses and inverter and everything was fine.   My lights work although they were dimming some when the furnace fan was on.  I just had the furnace gas problem fixed about two weeks ago. I thought it might be the same with the waterpump.  So I tried it out. My waterpump motor seems to be up to speed.   Why would be furnace fan motor be running like that suddenly? Any suggestions? Don You need a new blower motor, and if your in an area where you need heat, you should change it quickly.  When they get that bad, there isn’t much time left. Mark

Guess what?!? I think you are correct! It is 8:30 AM on Sunday morning and my blower is NOT blowing.  I am putting in a call to my little RV mobile repairman to fix this thing! BBRRRRRRRRR! I’m just glad is it NOT freezing. D* _)_)_) _)_)_)                    Don Reasons _)_)_)                     Gal. 2:20 _)_)_)                 _)_)_)              I RV, therefore, I "R" _)_)_)   _)_) _)       Please visit —- http://www.petloss.com/rainbowb.htm                            Remembering Shadow                       July 1984 – November 13, 1997                        A Tribute To The Sweetest,                        Most Perfect Dog In Heaven   I explained to St. Peter   I’d rather stay here.   Right by the pearly gate.   I won’t be a nuisance,   I won’t even bark,   I’ll be very patient and wait.   I’ll be here, chewing a celestial bone,   No matter how long you may be.   I’d miss you so much, if I went in alone,   It wouldn’t be heaven for me.   -unknown

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Today my furnace came on and was making alot of niose, fan motor noise.  It sounded as if it was not up to speed.  I turned it off because I had to leave anyway. Came home tonight and it was doing the same thing.  I checked fuses and inverter and everything was fine. My lights work although they were dimming some when the furnace fan was on.  I just had the furnace gas problem fixed about two weeks ago. I thought it might be the same with the waterpump.  So I tried it out. My waterpump motor seems to be up to speed. Why would be furnace fan motor be running like that suddenly? Any suggestions? Don _)_)_) _)_)_)                    Don Reasons _)_)_)                     Gal. 2:20 _)_)_) _)_)_)              I RV, therefore, I "R" _)_)_) _)_) _)       Please visit —- http://www.petloss.com/rainbowb.htm                            Remembering Shadow                       July 1984 – November 13, 1997                        A Tribute To The Sweetest,                        Most Perfect Dog In Heaven   I explained to St. Peter   I’d rather stay here.   Right by the pearly gate.   I won’t be a nuisance,   I won’t even bark,   I’ll be very patient and wait.   I’ll be here, chewing a celestial bone,   No matter how long you may be.   I’d miss you so much, if I went in alone,   It wouldn’t be heaven for me.   -unknown

  Hi Don, Assuming your 12V supply is up to par, I would also guess something is restricting the motor–possibly the mud-dauber OR bad bearings. Since your lights dimmed when the fan was on (I’m assuming that isn’t normal) and  your 12V supply powers everything else OK, either something is increasing the load on the motor (see above) or you have resistance in the wires / connections leading to the furnace.  I doubt it’s wires/ connectors, since the fan is making a lot of noise. Mike N.

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Don Usually it will be caused by low voltage to the motor, restriction on the motor or fan (such as a mud dobber), bad connection or the motor going bad. Regards Rick

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-Don – -Usually it will be caused by low voltage to the motor, restriction on the motor -or fan (such as a mud dobber), bad connection or the motor going bad. – -Regards – -Rick Assuming it’s not low voltage, it’s one of three things: 1) Fan is out of ballance. This could have happend when it was serviced for the gas problem. 2) the brushes inside the motor are bad. 3) the motor bearings are bad. Steve Fletcher

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Today my furnace came on and was making alot of niose, fan motor noise.  It sounded as if it was not up to speed.  I turned it off because I had to leave anyway. Came home tonight and it was doing the same thing.  I checked fuses and inverter and everything was fine.   My lights work although they were dimming some when the furnace fan was on.  I just had the furnace gas problem fixed about two weeks ago. I thought it might be the same with the waterpump.  So I tried it out. My waterpump motor seems to be up to speed.   Why would be furnace fan motor be running like that suddenly? Any suggestions? Don _)_)_) _)_)_)                    Don Reasons _)_)_)                     Gal. 2:20 _)_)_)                 _)_)_)              I RV, therefore, I "R" _)_)_)   _)_) _)       Please visit —- http://www.petloss.com/rainbowb.htm                            Remembering Shadow                       July 1984 – November 13, 1997                        A Tribute To The Sweetest,                        Most Perfect Dog In Heaven   I explained to St. Peter   I’d rather stay here.   Right by the pearly gate.   I won’t be a nuisance,   I won’t even bark,   I’ll be very patient and wait.   I’ll be here, chewing a celestial bone,   No matter how long you may be.   I’d miss you so much, if I went in alone,   It wouldn’t be heaven for me.   -unknown

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