Question:

Hi john and susan, A simple cold air return may be the least expensive at this time.  The reason being, a return would cause the hot air to increase in volume causing a warmer room.  The improper location of cold air returns is very common with older homes.  With the new flex duct available at home stores this may even be a do-it your self project.   I agree that over a time the new window/door will be a money maker. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – cold room solutions Hello there. The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it. The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1) another heat duct 2) a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective? I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!! Thank you. Susan, I would recommend doing the window and door first and then if you need too, add an additional supply later.  The door and window will pay for its self and will make it more comfortable.  After doing this you may not need an additional supply. John Williamson

Response:

Items to note.   Houses are made for looks. Many are not made for the climate they are in. They face the street.  Like I want to see cars when I look out? Question to ask yourself. Is this room at the end of the house? Does it have like two/three exposed walls? How is the wall insulation? Can you inclose this porch in the winter? Some rooms are just hard to heat.  If this room is at the end of the house and you have like three exposed walls then it’s an uphill battle. I would insulate the walls both inside and out(foam) and get a space heater so you can warm it up when you need to.  Also find a way to get the bed away from the outside walls/windows along with your head too keep yourself as warm as you can in the winter.  Do switch out the door with an insulated one and make sure it is sealed well.  Or you can cover the door on the inside with foam board and then cover that.  If you do make sure you can pull if off fast to get out incase of fire.  You could also put plasic on the windows and get a storm window put on it too. Rebuilding the window would help too.  A new one is the fastest way tho BUT make sure you seal around the opening when you take out the old one. Good luck

Response:

For those assuming there is no insulation in the walls. I won’t say for sure but I strongly doubt any house built in Minnesota in the fifties would be void of insulation.   At least in 30 something years of hvac up there, I never saw one. John Williamson

Response:

For those assuming there is no insulation in the walls. I won’t say for sure but I strongly doubt any house built in Minnesota in the fifties would be void of insulation.   At least in 30 something years of hvac up there, I never saw one.

Yep, if it was at all built to code, it would have insulation in it. Not much, but insulation.

Response:

cold room solutions  

Hello there. The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it. The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1) another heat duct 2) a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective? I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!! Thank you.  

Susan, I would recommend doing the window and door first and then if you need too, add an additional supply later.  The door and window will pay for its self and will make it more comfortable.  After doing this you may not need an additional supply.   John Williamson

Response:

Hello there.  The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it.  The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1)  another heat duct 2)  a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective?  I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!!  Thank you.

Response:

Hello there.  The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it.  The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1)  another heat duct 2)  a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective?  I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!!  Thank you.

Have you tried closing registers in other rooms partially to force more warm air into the bedroom?  Heavy drapes and blinds may help a good deal in insulating heat loss at the window.  Got a storm window on the window?  Got a good seal around the door to the porch?  Storm door?  If the porch is on the windy side, can you seal it up with plastic over screens?  How’s the floor? Rest of the house is comfortable? Azaleas are bloomin’ here ) — "Life can only be understood backwards, but it must be lived forwards." Kierkegaard

Response:

How’s the insulation in the walls? And is it at the end of the house, with two walls exposed to the weather? During that time, heating fuel was cheap, and natural gas was so cheap, the biggest expense was metering it. Do the math. A window with an insulation factor of less than 1.0, or the whole wall with barely an insulation value either. Wall is far larger. So put plastic over the window to stop air infiltration at the window, put your money into insulating the wall. You can do it yourself, you know. And your furnace ducting may need to be ‘tuned’, with the vents closest to the air return duct being closed off a bit, to ‘encourage’ more of the heat to get to the bedroom. And is there an air return duct in that bedroom? If not, it may help to put one in. And pay attention to WHERE the heat duct is. Is it in the far corner, (best) or closer to the door(worse, especially if your air return is in the hallway. Not enough info. Really can’t give any suggestions.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello there.  The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it.  The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1)  another heat duct 2)  a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective?  I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!!  Thank you.

Response:

page I would recommend a small wall furnace. Install in and vent through an outside wall of the master bedroom.  This will give you a separate thermostat for this room.  I doubt the possibility of balancing your furnace with the unbalanced heat loss. Ben – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hello there.  The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it.  The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1)  another heat duct 2)  a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective?  I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!!  Thank you.

We enjoy great advantages from the inventions of others, we should be glad of an opportunity to serve others by any invention of ours; and this we should do freely and generously.  BENJAMIN FRANKLIN, refusing Governor Thomas’ offer of a Stove Patent.

Response:

I have the same problem.  How do you DIY insulate walls?  I know contractors can blow in insulation using hoses, etc.  I didn’t realize a homeowner could do this. Any details?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – How’s the insulation in the walls? And is it at the end of the house, with two walls exposed to the weather? During that time, heating fuel was cheap, and natural gas was so cheap, the biggest expense was metering it. Do the math. A window with an insulation factor of less than 1.0, or the whole wall with barely an insulation value either. Wall is far larger. So put plastic over the window to stop air infiltration at the window, put your money into insulating the wall. You can do it yourself, you know. And your furnace ducting may need to be ‘tuned’, with the vents closest to the air return duct being closed off a bit, to ‘encourage’ more of the heat to get to the bedroom. And is there an air return duct in that bedroom? If not, it may help to put one in. And pay attention to WHERE the heat duct is. Is it in the far corner, (best) or closer to the door(worse, especially if your air return is in the hallway. Not enough info. Really can’t give any suggestions. Hello there.  The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it.  The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1)  another heat duct 2)  a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective?  I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!!  Thank you.

Response:

Hello there.  The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it.  The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1)  another heat duct 2)  a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective?  I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!!  Thank you.

Pry the inside trim off the windows and doors and inject low expansion foam into the gap between rough opening and frame.  Use foam sealer gaskets on all the electrical outlets on the outside wall.

Response:

The same way the pro’s do.  It’s easy to blow the insulation in, it’s preping that’s hard.   First you need access to the cavities. Due to fire stops, you’ll need access points high and low.  Lots of holes in your outer wall to patch. Depending on the age and size, it might be easier to remove the outside covering add the insulation (batts not blown) then use a house wrap.  Finally add new siding.  I would suggest going through the top plate but that’s a lot of holes.  Removing the top board of the siding and going through the sheathing would be neater.  For the lower access it’s your call. As to the equipment for blowing the insulation in, call some tool rental shops. Wickes rents them http://www.wickes.com/WickesLumber/ToolRentalLocations.cfm

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have the same problem.  How do you DIY insulate walls?  I know contractors can blow in insulation using hoses, etc.  I didn’t realize a homeowner could do this. Any details? How’s the insulation in the walls? And is it at the end of the house, with two walls exposed to the weather? During that time, heating fuel was cheap, and natural gas was so cheap, the biggest expense was metering it. Do the math. A window with an insulation factor of less than 1.0, or the whole wall with barely an insulation value either. Wall is far larger. So put plastic over the window to stop air infiltration at the window, put your money into insulating the wall. You can do it yourself, you know. And your furnace ducting may need to be ‘tuned’, with the vents closest to the air return duct being closed off a bit, to ‘encourage’ more of the heat to get to the bedroom. And is there an air return duct in that bedroom? If not, it may help to put one in. And pay attention to WHERE the heat duct is. Is it in the far corner, (best) or closer to the door(worse, especially if your air return is in the hallway. Not enough info. Really can’t give any suggestions. Hello there.  The master bedroom in my little 2 bdrm house is the coldest room in the house due to the fact that there is only one heat duct in the room and that there is a porch off of it.  The house was built in the early 1950’s. I have considered installing: 1)  another heat duct 2)  a new window and a new door with double or triple panes instead of the single panes that I have now Any help on which would be the most effective?  I imagine all of the above but am not sure I can afford all. As I live in MN this is a real concern!!  Thank you.

Response:

Question:

Just go down to home depot and buy some furnace ducting to build your own. $30 vs. $200+.  6" pipe vs. 3" pipe. Hmm…tough one… Whatever you do though, don’t get your hopes up thinking that once you assemble the kit and get it on your system that you’ll have effectively dropped a second off your ET, cause it’s really not very noticable.

If at all noticeable… Patrick ‘93 Cobra – Best E.T. 13.44 / Best MPH 103.23   Former original owner – ‘87 5-liter, 5-speed LX I’m not brand loyal.  If it’s fast, I like it. Boycott Excessive Motorsports

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I don’t know about it ruining your engine, but it doesn’t add any power.  This is why Mustang’s don’t come with a functional air scoop to begin with nowadays. Years ago, when engine’s "breathed" through a snorkel the very hot air from under the hood, adding a scoop would make a difference. However, today’s cars including the Mustang, draw cool air from in front of the radiator.  So, since the engine is already getting cooler and denser air, giving it another source of the same type of air doesn’t help. At to "ramming" air, you need to be going rather fast (100MPH) before you can actually *start* to ram the air enough to make a difference in engine power (ie, sort of a Supercharger effect).

According to the dyno tests at WWW.CORRAL.NET, ram air does work: In general, the Moroso High Flow Induction System demonstrated results that were close to the manufacturer claimed on a stock-motored car. If removing the air intake silencer and adding a K&N panel filter is good for a few hp and this system is good for a few hp over that, then this system might be worth 7-8 hp on a bone stock car. Our experience is that this system is inexpensive (around $100 retail) and easy to install. The Moroso system made noticeably more peak power (3-4hp and 4- 5ft-lbs) than the baseline K&N panel filter. More importantly, this system made more hp and torque across the entire RPM range of the motor. Clearly there is room for optimization of the stock 5.0L induction system and Moroso can deliver it. These $99 Moroso kit that goes inside the fenderwells can gain 7-8hp vs. a paper filter with air silencer. Ok, so no one keeps the air silencer, which removing it will gain about 1.5hp. So $99 will get you 5.5 – 6.5hp. If you had a K&N, then according to Corral.net, it’s a gain of 3-4hp as stated above. But you must take $99 – $34 (cost of a K&N panel) which is $65, since the Moroso comes with a lifetime filter also. So $65 for a 3-4hp gain is not that bad. Now the ram air kits such as the ones that scoops air from the bottom, will ram even more air than the Moroso. Our stock Mustangs were sucking air sideways with the panel filter that faced to the side. Merely relocating a conical filter that faced forward, in the direction of the air being thrusted, gained 3-4hp. So scooping it though a hose will concentrate an even greater force of air into the engine. Yeah, you will scoop dirt and shouldn’t be going fast over large puddles, but just about any performance parts have its reliability compromise. My ram air from March definitely helped and I can notice a better throttle response. It didn’t push me back into my seats or anything, but then, neither did pullies nor headers. After 2-3 weeks, all of these little bolt-ons are not felt anymore as you’ve gotten used to it. Are $79 pullies better than the $149 March Ram Air? Yes. Are $169 headers + $100 install labor better? Yes. Is bumping the timing for $0 better? Yes. $215 Catback? $119 H-Pipe? Gears? Yes, yes, and yes. But if you’ve done all of these little bolt ons already, and the next step up is either a supercharger or heads, cam and intake, then $149 might not be bad either for about a 6-8 HP increase that’s extremely easy to do. And the reason why the new Mustangs don’t come with a functional ram air is because it would costs a significant amount of R&D money to relocate and channel air into the MAF from where it currently sits and where the fake scoop is.

Response:

Correct, in fact I somehow managed to damage the piping on my car over the summer and I never realized it untill I ended up doing a routine check on the pipe. — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 2.5" Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Cobra OEM leather shifter knob Boycotting excrementive motorcocks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Just go down to home depot and buy some furnace ducting to build your own. $30 vs. $200+.  6" pipe vs. 3" pipe. Hmm…tough one… Whatever you do though, don’t get your hopes up thinking that once you assemble the kit and get it on your system that you’ll have effectively dropped a second off your ET, cause it’s really not very noticable. If at all noticeable… Patrick ‘93 Cobra – Best E.T. 13.44 / Best MPH 103.23 Former original owner – ‘87 5-liter, 5-speed LX I’m not brand loyal.  If it’s fast, I like it. Boycott Excessive Motorsports

Response:

It’s not worth the money. ce

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – i was telling a buddy that i was thinking of getting a ram air kit by march performance pullys company. well he told me that ram air is a waste of cash and it dont do jack squat but ruin you engine by letting trash and stuff get inside. is that true? and what is better the stock box, a ram air kit, or a filter charger?

Response:

I bought it for my 96GT, all it did was scrape and get dirt all in my filter, its a waste of money..But the pullys are ok… Ryan

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – i was telling a buddy that i was thinking of getting a ram air kit by march performance pullys company. well he told me that ram air is a waste of cash and it dont do jack squat but ruin you engine by letting trash and stuff get inside. is that true? and what is better the stock box, a ram air kit, or a filter charger?

Response:

I don’t know about it ruining your engine, but it doesn’t add any power.  This is why Mustang’s don’t come with a functional air scoop to begin with nowadays. Years ago, when engine’s "breathed" through a snorkel the very hot air from under the hood, adding a scoop would make a difference. However, today’s cars including the Mustang, draw cool air from in front of the radiator.  So, since the engine is already getting cooler and denser air, giving it another source of the same type of air doesn’t help. At to "ramming" air, you need to be going rather fast (100MPH) before you can actually *start* to ram the air enough to make a difference in engine power (ie, sort of a Supercharger effect). – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – i was telling a buddy that i was thinking of getting a ram air kit by march performance pullys company. well he told me that ram air is a waste of cash and it dont do jack squat but ruin you engine by letting trash and stuff get inside. is that true? and what is better the stock box, a ram air kit, or a filter charger?

Response:

At to "ramming" air, you need to be going rather fast (100MPH) before you can actually *start* to ram the air enough to make a difference in engine power (ie, sort of a Supercharger effect).

Bitchen…… I seldom travel at lower speeds than 100.  Horsepower here I come…. Robert 97GT

Response:

 That duct on the bottom WILL get torn off in a matter of a week or 2.Had it on my 93 vert.But not for long!  Don’t waste your money on ram air.Get the bbk or mac cold air kit.Got the bbk on my cobra.Looks much better(chrome),is about the same money,and will do more (HP WISE) than the garbage ram air will do. Hope this helps   mark

Response:

Ram air won’t do much for you.  And get a Vortech S-trim, its a better induction then everything listed =) — 1990 LX Hatchback 5.0 1 5/8 inch MAC HTS coated shorty headers MAC cold air induction MARCH performance underdrive pullies 14* timing

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – i was telling a buddy that i was thinking of getting a ram air kit by march performance pullys company. well he told me that ram air is a waste of cash and it dont do jack squat but ruin you engine by letting trash and stuff get inside. is that true? and what is better the stock box, a ram air kit, or a filter charger?

Response:

Just go down to home depot and buy some furnace ducting to build your own. $30 vs. $200+.  6" pipe vs. 3" pipe. Hmm…tough one… Whatever you do though, don’t get your hopes up thinking that once you assemble the kit and get it on your system that you’ll have effectively dropped a second off your ET, cause it’s really not very noticable. — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 2.5" Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Cobra OEM leather shifter knob Boycotting excrementive motorcocks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – i was telling a buddy that i was thinking of getting a ram air kit by march performance pullys company. well he told me that ram air is a waste of cash and it dont do jack squat but ruin you engine by letting trash and stuff get inside. is that true? and what is better the stock box, a ram air kit, or a filter charger?

Response:

i was telling a buddy that i was thinking of getting a ram air kit by march performance pullys company. well he told me that ram air is a waste of cash and it dont do jack squat but ruin you engine by letting trash and stuff get inside. is that true? and what is better the stock box, a ram air kit, or a filter charger?

Response:

Question:

Amen Brotha!! 100% true.  not worth getting injured/dying for a dumb high speed street race to prove something. 1999 V6 Pony AOD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – thanx for the advice.  Although, i doubt that ill mess around with it after i get the cai installed. It was a fun race nonetheless.  I rarely take races higher than 65-70. Although, it will be nice to have that extra lil boost.  It just gets too dangerous after that.  If he wants to go, then I just let him go.  I usually like the fast take-offs anywayz, most of the time its the silly Hondas anyways, anyone can go fast, but not everyone gets up there too fast, so that 0-60 is the best thing i guess, its just the fun factor of it.  and besides, i dont have to prove anything with my car, especially that i can go 110 on some city road!!!(which some morons actually do, like i did yesterday thanx again, I’m with you…  Anytime I’m involved in a stoplight race, I rarely go above the posted speed limit.  If the limit is really low, oh well, it’ll just be to see who can take off the fastest.  Besides, if you’re beating the guy by a decent amount by the time you’re at around 50 or 60 mph, you’ve won the street race.  Save all the high speed stuff for the drag strip, because it just isn’t worth losing someone’s life or someone’s car over those last few seconds.  Not to say that the low speed stuff is totally safe, but IMO, it’s safer. — Nick  ’99 Sonoma ZQ8 4.3L V6/NV3500 five-speed tranny… Not enough mods to go fast yet… Nitrous by NX coming later this summer!!!

Response:

thanx for the advice.  Although, i doubt that ill mess around with it after i get the cai installed. It was a fun race nonetheless.  I rarely take races higher than 65-70. Although, it will be nice to have that extra lil boost.  It just gets too dangerous after that.  If he wants to go, then I just let him go.  I usually like the fast take-offs anywayz, most of the time its the silly Hondas anyways, anyone can go fast, but not everyone gets up there too fast, so that 0-60 is the best thing i guess, its just the fun factor of it.  and besides, i dont have to prove anything with my car, especially that i can go 110 on some city road!!!(which some morons actually do, like i did yesterday thanx again,

I’m with you…  Anytime I’m involved in a stoplight race, I rarely go above the posted speed limit.  If the limit is really low, oh well, it’ll just be to see who can take off the fastest.  Besides, if you’re beating the guy by a decent amount by the time you’re at around 50 or 60 mph, you’ve won the street race.  Save all the high speed stuff for the drag strip, because it just isn’t worth losing someone’s life or someone’s car over those last few seconds.  Not to say that the low speed stuff is totally safe, but IMO, it’s safer. — Nick  ’99 Sonoma ZQ8 4.3L V6/NV3500 five-speed tranny…         Not enough mods to go fast yet…         Nitrous by NX coming later this summer!!!

Response:

thanx for the advice.  Although, i doubt that ill mess around with it after i get the cai installed. It was a fun race nonetheless.  I rarely take races higher than 65-70. Although, it will be nice to have that extra lil boost.  It just gets too dangerous after that.  If he wants to go, then I just let him go.  I usually like the fast take-offs anywayz, most of the time its the silly Hondas anyways, anyone can go fast, but not everyone gets up there too fast, so that 0-60 is the best thing i guess, its just the fun factor of it.  and besides, i dont have to prove anything with my car, especially that i can go 110 on some city road!!!(which some morons actually do, like i did yesterday thanx again, 1999 V6 Pony AOD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think you should just build your own CAI.  It would be cheaper and probably yield better results.  The only thing I have with the MAC CAI is that they replace the tube connecting the MAF to the TB with a smooth chrome pipe, which would reduce turbulence past the MAF.  My advice, get some 6" furnace ducting, a 10" collector, a 6-4" reducer, a 4-3" reducer, trim your snorkel, put the pieces together, mounting the collector by your passenger side fog light and plug the pipe into your snorkel w/ a K&N.  This is what I did w/ my car.  I’m not sure what you can do about the tube connecting the MAF to the TB.  But if you can replace it I’d cut the MAF post while you’re at it to free up the airflow by about 10%. 0-60 w/ the ram air felt the same on my car, 60-100 was quite faster. — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Mustang Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Cobra OEM leather shifter knob Boycotting excrementive motorcocks yep, they’re both stock.  i already ordered a MAC cold air intake, it was supposed to be here about, hmm, 4 weeks ago…  never came, they said its on backorder.  i actually had it in my signature a while ago, silly me.  u think that the cai will help?  I mean, my car just *stopped* at around 95. I took it up to about 115 before, well, according to my spedometer, but that was just at a regular acceleration. — 1999 V6 Pony AOD Throw a 6" ram air pipe in your car and you’ll kill him in the 60-100. I felt a definate increase in high end acceleration with it.  BTW, where both cars entirely stock? — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Mustang Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Boycotting excrementive motorcocks Well, it finally happened.  One of my very best friends who owns a 00 Camaro V6 auto, finally got back from vacation and we finally raced. We were going to a party yesterday and well, there was always that little tension and curiosity of which car is faster. So anyways, we are going on this very very long road, no cars, except a few behind us.  We’re sitting at a red light, just talking and fooling around. So the light turns green and both of us take off.  Since both are autos, there was no tire spinning or anything except like a 1 second hesitation time for both of us in the beginning. So im looking and im pulling away from him.  The car is shifting quite well, around 5000-5200 each time.  (both of us had OD off) We’re going about 60 and im about 1 car ahead of him.  I was thinking, well, this rocks.  And then, he starts catching up, fast…  My car slowed down around 95 and thats when his just took off.  He probably took it up to 105-110. We got to the party, had a few laughs and discussed how much fun it was. I was impressed about mine taking off, but damn, he just had me at the higher speed.  It was a lot of fun.  I guess we needed this race for there was always this thing of mine is stronger, mine is faster, blah blah blah. This way we know that I got him early on but he beats me down the long road. I guess thats when his stronger engine kicks in. ps. i know racing is very dangerous, so we will not do it again.  I rarely, very very rarely race anymore after i had a little incident happen to me which i learned from.  actually, he is very excited to go to the track and race the cars there, which i think is a good idea too.  no more street racing for me thanx for reading this, Gabor 1999 V6 Pony AOD

Response:

yep, they’re both stock.  i already ordered a MAC cold air intake, it was supposed to be here about, hmm, 4 weeks ago…  never came, they said its on backorder.  i actually had it in my signature a while ago, silly me.  u think that the cai will help?  I mean, my car just *stopped* at around 95. I took it up to about 115 before, well, according to my spedometer, but that was just at a regular acceleration. — 1999 V6 Pony AOD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Throw a 6" ram air pipe in your car and you’ll kill him in the 60-100.  I felt a definate increase in high end acceleration with it.  BTW, where both cars entirely stock? — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Mustang Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Boycotting excrementive motorcocks Well, it finally happened.  One of my very best friends who owns a 00 Camaro V6 auto, finally got back from vacation and we finally raced. We were going to a party yesterday and well, there was always that little tension and curiosity of which car is faster. So anyways, we are going on this very very long road, no cars, except a few behind us.  We’re sitting at a red light, just talking and fooling around. So the light turns green and both of us take off.  Since both are autos, there was no tire spinning or anything except like a 1 second hesitation time for both of us in the beginning. So im looking and im pulling away from him.  The car is shifting quite well, around 5000-5200 each time.  (both of us had OD off) We’re going about 60 and im about 1 car ahead of him.  I was thinking, well, this rocks.  And then, he starts catching up, fast…  My car slowed down around 95 and thats when his just took off.  He probably took it up to 105-110. We got to the party, had a few laughs and discussed how much fun it was. I was impressed about mine taking off, but damn, he just had me at the higher speed.  It was a lot of fun.  I guess we needed this race for there was always this thing of mine is stronger, mine is faster, blah blah blah. This way we know that I got him early on but he beats me down the long road. I guess thats when his stronger engine kicks in. ps. i know racing is very dangerous, so we will not do it again.  I rarely, very very rarely race anymore after i had a little incident happen to me which i learned from.  actually, he is very excited to go to the track and race the cars there, which i think is a good idea too.  no more street racing for me thanx for reading this, Gabor 1999 V6 Pony AOD

Response:

I think you should just build your own CAI.  It would be cheaper and probably yield better results.  The only thing I have with the MAC CAI is that they replace the tube connecting the MAF to the TB with a smooth chrome pipe, which would reduce turbulence past the MAF.  My advice, get some 6" furnace ducting, a 10" collector, a 6-4" reducer, a 4-3" reducer, trim your snorkel, put the pieces together, mounting the collector by your passenger side fog light and plug the pipe into your snorkel w/ a K&N.  This is what I did w/ my car.  I’m not sure what you can do about the tube connecting the MAF to the TB.  But if you can replace it I’d cut the MAF post while you’re at it to free up the airflow by about 10%. 0-60 w/ the ram air felt the same on my car, 60-100 was quite faster. — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Mustang Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Cobra OEM leather shifter knob Boycotting excrementive motorcocks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – yep, they’re both stock.  i already ordered a MAC cold air intake, it was supposed to be here about, hmm, 4 weeks ago…  never came, they said its on backorder.  i actually had it in my signature a while ago, silly me.  u think that the cai will help?  I mean, my car just *stopped* at around 95. I took it up to about 115 before, well, according to my spedometer, but that was just at a regular acceleration. — 1999 V6 Pony AOD Throw a 6" ram air pipe in your car and you’ll kill him in the 60-100. I felt a definate increase in high end acceleration with it.  BTW, where both cars entirely stock? — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Mustang Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Boycotting excrementive motorcocks Well, it finally happened.  One of my very best friends who owns a 00 Camaro V6 auto, finally got back from vacation and we finally raced. We were going to a party yesterday and well, there was always that little tension and curiosity of which car is faster. So anyways, we are going on this very very long road, no cars, except a few behind us.  We’re sitting at a red light, just talking and fooling around. So the light turns green and both of us take off.  Since both are autos, there was no tire spinning or anything except like a 1 second hesitation time for both of us in the beginning. So im looking and im pulling away from him.  The car is shifting quite well, around 5000-5200 each time.  (both of us had OD off) We’re going about 60 and im about 1 car ahead of him.  I was thinking, well, this rocks.  And then, he starts catching up, fast…  My car slowed down around 95 and thats when his just took off.  He probably took it up to 105-110. We got to the party, had a few laughs and discussed how much fun it was. I was impressed about mine taking off, but damn, he just had me at the higher speed.  It was a lot of fun.  I guess we needed this race for there was always this thing of mine is stronger, mine is faster, blah blah blah. This way we know that I got him early on but he beats me down the long road. I guess thats when his stronger engine kicks in. ps. i know racing is very dangerous, so we will not do it again.  I rarely, very very rarely race anymore after i had a little incident happen to me which i learned from.  actually, he is very excited to go to the track and race the cars there, which i think is a good idea too.  no more street racing for me thanx for reading this, Gabor 1999 V6 Pony AOD

Response:

Throw a 6" ram air pipe in your car and you’ll kill him in the 60-100.  I felt a definate increase in high end acceleration with it.  BTW, where both cars entirely stock? — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Mustang Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Boycotting excrementive motorcocks

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Well, it finally happened.  One of my very best friends who owns a 00 Camaro V6 auto, finally got back from vacation and we finally raced. We were going to a party yesterday and well, there was always that little tension and curiosity of which car is faster. So anyways, we are going on this very very long road, no cars, except a few behind us.  We’re sitting at a red light, just talking and fooling around. So the light turns green and both of us take off.  Since both are autos, there was no tire spinning or anything except like a 1 second hesitation time for both of us in the beginning. So im looking and im pulling away from him.  The car is shifting quite well, around 5000-5200 each time.  (both of us had OD off) We’re going about 60 and im about 1 car ahead of him.  I was thinking, well, this rocks.  And then, he starts catching up, fast…  My car slowed down around 95 and thats when his just took off.  He probably took it up to 105-110. We got to the party, had a few laughs and discussed how much fun it was. I was impressed about mine taking off, but damn, he just had me at the higher speed.  It was a lot of fun.  I guess we needed this race for there was always this thing of mine is stronger, mine is faster, blah blah blah. This way we know that I got him early on but he beats me down the long road. I guess thats when his stronger engine kicks in. ps. i know racing is very dangerous, so we will not do it again.  I rarely, very very rarely race anymore after i had a little incident happen to me which i learned from.  actually, he is very excited to go to the track and race the cars there, which i think is a good idea too.  no more street racing for me thanx for reading this, Gabor 1999 V6 Pony AOD

Response:

Well, it finally happened.  One of my very best friends who owns a 00 Camaro V6 auto, finally got back from vacation and we finally raced. We were going to a party yesterday and well, there was always that little tension and curiosity of which car is faster. So anyways, we are going on this very very long road, no cars, except a few behind us.  We’re sitting at a red light, just talking and fooling around. So the light turns green and both of us take off.  Since both are autos, there was no tire spinning or anything except like a 1 second hesitation time for both of us in the beginning. So im looking and im pulling away from him.  The car is shifting quite well, around 5000-5200 each time.  (both of us had OD off) We’re going about 60 and im about 1 car ahead of him.  I was thinking, well, this rocks.  And then, he starts catching up, fast…  My car slowed down around 95 and thats when his just took off.  He probably took it up to 105-110. We got to the party, had a few laughs and discussed how much fun it was. I was impressed about mine taking off, but damn, he just had me at the higher speed.  It was a lot of fun.  I guess we needed this race for there was always this thing of mine is stronger, mine is faster, blah blah blah. This way we know that I got him early on but he beats me down the long road. I guess thats when his stronger engine kicks in. ps. i know racing is very dangerous, so we will not do it again.  I rarely, very very rarely race anymore after i had a little incident happen to me which i learned from.  actually, he is very excited to go to the track and race the cars there, which i think is a good idea too.  no more street racing for me thanx for reading this, Gabor 1999 V6 Pony AOD

Response:

Question:

There is a kit for the ‘99+ by carcraft (?) but it’s $600!  $100 less if you already have the scoop.  Also, your not going to get much (if any) pressure only an inch or two above the hood, it’s main benefit is cooler air. — Mike K. Black ‘00 GT Spring Feature Edition Steeda Tri-Ax and K&N See it at http://personal.mia.bellsouth.net/~mikebk/mygt.htm _

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – If the scoop on the ‘99-’00 Mustangs were functional and they placed the air filter up there like they did with the older cars they should have been hella faster since that would have been ram air straight from hell.  As for any kits, I doubt it’s even possible judging by how much space you would have to work with.  Plus look at where the TB is located, the pipe would have to make a 180 turn just to relay the air into the TB and into the intake.  Now if someone was to re-do the ‘99-’00s upper intake to support this. . . — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction Is the fender the best place for the filter? Should I block off the airflow from the engine compartment to the fender if I put the air filter in there? Seems to me that the inside of the fender would be a negative pressure area, sucking air in from the engine compartment. Does anyone make a filter that just meets up with a big rubber seal on the hood for ram air? I think that would be much cooler than the filter? it looks exactly like the K&N filter but its some other brand name. yes, it is the same concept that u just have to oil it, no replacements necessary. 1999 V6 Pony AOD What kind of filter does the MAC cold air kit use? Is it a lifetime filter? Do you just oil it an clean it every 20K or what? — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports — But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose. Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. IIRC, the 96-98 GT’s benefit from the removal of the silencer, while the 99-00’s do not.  I would also think that increased air flow would outweigh the heat produced from the engine, thus gaining a couple of horsies. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right? Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? If you want the most HP from a filter kit, get a CAI (cold air induction). This kit will place the air filter inside the fenderwell, away from all of the turbulence and heat coming from inside the engine compartment, but again, don’t expect to see big gains as manufacturers claim.  It will be more than just adding a K&N or K&N filter charger kit, or pulling the silencer, but we’re still only talking about a few horses. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

If the scoop on the ‘99-’00 Mustangs were functional and they placed the air filter up there like they did with the older cars they should have been

What, right above the engine??  Nice. hella faster since that would have been ram air straight from hell.  As

for Hella faster.. no. RAM air straight from Hell would probably be worthless, man. (: stephen 1995 SVT Cobra —–= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =—– http://www.newsfeeds.com – The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–==  Over 80,000 Newsgroups – 16 Different Servers! =—–

Response:

The pipe goes straight from the TB to fender, fully chrome plated.  I think that using chrome, or any smooth metal for the matter would help the flow out a bit due to reduced turbulence. — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – K&N quoted me $299 for a kit for my car. I think this is ridiculous considering it is just a filter with an adapter to marry up with the mass air sensor. Am I missing something? Why so much? Where can I get more info on the cold air kits? Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing??

Response:

Hmm, stickers give you hp too?  I was wondering why my car felt faster when I put a license plate on the front with the word ‘mustang’ written in script. — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – LOL I wonder how much HP a vortech sticker will give me….. — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports — BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? No, you get the additional 3-4 HP from the K&N sticker that comes with the kit but not with just the filter. — 1998 Mustang GT, Ultra White, AOD-E and a few toys. ** Remove "-spamsucks-" when replying via e-mail. Visit the Late Model Mustangs FAQ here: http://www.sb.net/wkeller/mustangs-faq/TOCindex.html ** Boycotting Excrement Motorsquirts because Mitch Black is an ass **

Response:

If the scoop on the ‘99-’00 Mustangs were functional and they placed the air filter up there like they did with the older cars they should have been hella faster since that would have been ram air straight from hell.  As for any kits, I doubt it’s even possible judging by how much space you would have to work with.  Plus look at where the TB is located, the pipe would have to make a 180 turn just to relay the air into the TB and into the intake.  Now if someone was to re-do the ‘99-’00s upper intake to support this. . . — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Is the fender the best place for the filter? Should I block off the airflow from the engine compartment to the fender if I put the air filter in there? Seems to me that the inside of the fender would be a negative pressure area, sucking air in from the engine compartment. Does anyone make a filter that just meets up with a big rubber seal on the hood for ram air? I think that would be much cooler than the filter? it looks exactly like the K&N filter but its some other brand name. yes, it is the same concept that u just have to oil it, no replacements necessary. 1999 V6 Pony AOD What kind of filter does the MAC cold air kit use? Is it a lifetime filter? Do you just oil it an clean it every 20K or what? — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports — But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose. Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. IIRC, the 96-98 GT’s benefit from the removal of the silencer, while the 99-00’s do not.  I would also think that increased air flow would outweigh the heat produced from the engine, thus gaining a couple of horsies. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right? Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? If you want the most HP from a filter kit, get a CAI (cold air induction). This kit will place the air filter inside the fenderwell, away from all of the turbulence and heat coming from inside the engine compartment, but again, don’t expect to see big gains as manufacturers claim.  It will be more than just adding a K&N or K&N filter charger kit, or pulling the silencer, but we’re still only talking about a few horses. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

The K&N flows about 50% free’er than the stock paper filter I believe, so the filter by itself should just make the car more efficient, not really speed it up.  Yanking the silencer shouldnl’t cause you to lose hp because the filter box would ’shield’ the filter from the hot engine air.  I’m not sure exactly how the FIPK boosts hp because it’s sitting in the open in the engine compartment, but everyone I’ve asked has said the car pulled harer when they installed it.  If you REALLY want to make the car considerably faster than I suggest you invest in some furnace ducting and run a line from your airbox down to our fog light panels (see thecorral for instructions). — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing??

Response:

Personally I felt no difference when I dropped my K&N in my purely stock V6. — ~Mike ‘95 3.8L V6 Singular exhaust with a 2 chamber flowmaster custom built ram air induction

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car. Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing?? The HP claims of aftermarket parts are usually *very* optimistic.  With the K&N, I would guess that you would probably only see about a 2-3 HP gain. I suggest if you actually want more/colder air, buy a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) like MAC or BBK or make your own.  I think MAC claims something like a 15 HP gain, but in all reality it is only about 4-6 HP if that. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

Don’t get that kit, waste of money, unless you like to imitate the ricer’s and have some shiny material under your hood. Brian 99GT – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What kind of filter does the MAC cold air kit use? Is it a lifetime filter? Do you just oil it an clean it every 20K or what? — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports — But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. IIRC, the 96-98 GT’s benefit from the removal of the silencer, while the 99-00’s do not.  I would also think that increased air flow would outweigh the heat produced from the engine, thus gaining a couple of horsies. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? If you want the most HP from a filter kit, get a CAI (cold air induction). This kit will place the air filter inside the fenderwell, away from all of the turbulence and heat coming from inside the engine compartment, but again, don’t expect to see big gains as manufacturers claim.  It will be more than just adding a K&N or K&N filter charger kit, or pulling the silencer, but we’re still only talking about a few horses. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

– Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/free_video/

Response:

The fenderwall is the best place to pull cool air in to the engine, but ask Ed Clark, who made his own fenderwall kit with the K&N, he said he felt no difference between the original setup and the fenderwall. Not to mention how much more you have to clean the K&N when its in the fenderwall because so much dirt flows through there. Brian 99GT – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I would think that the increased airflow (the filter sucks air from all sides) makes more HP than you loose by taking in the heat from the engine compartment. I think if you could get cold air flowing through that K&N filter you would get even more HP, I wonder why they do not just design the kit to place the filter in the fender? Good point about the filter verses kit performance. But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car. Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing?? The HP claims of aftermarket parts are usually *very* optimistic.  With the K&N, I would guess that you would probably only see about a 2-3 HP gain. I suggest if you actually want more/colder air, buy a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) like MAC or BBK or make your own.  I think MAC claims something like a 15 HP gain, but in all reality it is only about 4-6 HP if that. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

– Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/free_video/

Response:

Bro listen up.  The difference in price between a Aircharger kit and just a regular replacement filter is huge, the performance difference between the two is zero. Just get a replacement filter for about $45.00 drop it into the airbox and you’ll feel a slight increase in power. Don’t get suckered into all these false claims just get the filter and you’ll be happy, trust me. Brian 99GT – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing?? The HP claims of aftermarket parts are usually *very* optimistic.  With the K&N, I would guess that you would probably only see about a 2-3 HP gain. I suggest if you actually want more/colder air, buy a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) like MAC or BBK or make your own.  I think MAC claims something like a 15 HP gain, but in all reality it is only about 4-6 HP if that. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

– Click here for Free Video!! http://www.gohip.com/free_video/

Response:

LOL I wonder how much HP a vortech sticker will give me….. — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? No, you get the additional 3-4 HP from the K&N sticker that comes with the kit but not with just the filter. — 1998 Mustang GT, Ultra White, AOD-E and a few toys. ** Remove "-spamsucks-" when replying via e-mail. Visit the Late Model Mustangs FAQ here: http://www.sb.net/wkeller/mustangs-faq/TOCindex.html ** Boycotting Excrement Motorsquirts because Mitch Black is an ass **

Response:

it looks exactly like the K&N filter but its some other brand name.  yes, it is the same concept that u just have to oil it, no replacements necessary. 1999 V6 Pony AOD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – What kind of filter does the MAC cold air kit use? Is it a lifetime filter? Do you just oil it an clean it every 20K or what? — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports — But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. IIRC, the 96-98 GT’s benefit from the removal of the silencer, while the 99-00’s do not.  I would also think that increased air flow would outweigh the heat produced from the engine, thus gaining a couple of horsies. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? If you want the most HP from a filter kit, get a CAI (cold air induction). This kit will place the air filter inside the fenderwell, away from all of the turbulence and heat coming from inside the engine compartment, but again, don’t expect to see big gains as manufacturers claim.  It will be more than just adding a K&N or K&N filter charger kit, or pulling the silencer, but we’re still only talking about a few horses. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

i got my MAC cold air intake for $189 brand new. go to www.macprod.com  and check it out. 1999 V6 Pony AOD

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – K&N quoted me $299 for a kit for my car. I think this is ridiculous considering it is just a filter with an adapter to marry up with the mass air sensor. Am I missing something? Why so much? Where can I get more info on the cold air kits? Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing??

Response:

Is the fender the best place for the filter? Should I block off the airflow from the engine compartment to the fender if I put the air filter in there? Seems to me that the inside of the fender would be a negative pressure area, sucking air in from the engine compartment. Does anyone make a filter that just meets up with a big rubber seal on the hood for ram air? I think that would be much cooler than the filter?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – it looks exactly like the K&N filter but its some other brand name.  yes, it is the same concept that u just have to oil it, no replacements necessary. 1999 V6 Pony AOD What kind of filter does the MAC cold air kit use? Is it a lifetime filter? Do you just oil it an clean it every 20K or what? — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports — But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose. Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. IIRC, the 96-98 GT’s benefit from the removal of the silencer, while the 99-00’s do not.  I would also think that increased air flow would outweigh the heat produced from the engine, thus gaining a couple of horsies. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right? Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? If you want the most HP from a filter kit, get a CAI (cold air induction). This kit will place the air filter inside the fenderwell, away from all of the turbulence and heat coming from inside the engine compartment, but again, don’t expect to see big gains as manufacturers claim.  It will be more than just adding a K&N or K&N filter charger kit, or pulling the silencer, but we’re still only talking about a few horses. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit?

No, you get the additional 3-4 HP from the K&N sticker that comes with the kit but not with just the filter. — 1998 Mustang GT, Ultra White, AOD-E and a few toys. ** Remove "-spamsucks-" when replying via e-mail. Visit the Late Model Mustangs FAQ here: http://www.sb.net/wkeller/mustangs-faq/TOCindex.html ** Boycotting Excrement Motorsquirts because Mitch Black is an ass **

Response:

What kind of filter does the MAC cold air kit use? Is it a lifetime filter? Do you just oil it an clean it every 20K or what?

I’m not sure if it is an actual K&N or not, but it is designed exactly like one, and yes, it is a lifetime filter.  Just by the K&N performance cleaner kit and clean it once every 6 months or a year. BTW, after reading Mikes post (Excessive Motorsports), I think I’ll add that line to my sig also. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports — – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports —

Response:

What kind of filter does the MAC cold air kit use? Is it a lifetime filter? Do you just oil it an clean it every 20K or what? — Chris Eaton 98 Mustang GT ‘Vert Austin, TX http://www.austintx.net/chrise — Boycotting Excessive Motorsports —

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. IIRC, the 96-98 GT’s benefit from the removal of the silencer, while the 99-00’s do not.  I would also think that increased air flow would outweigh the heat produced from the engine, thus gaining a couple of horsies. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? If you want the most HP from a filter kit, get a CAI (cold air induction). This kit will place the air filter inside the fenderwell, away from all of the turbulence and heat coming from inside the engine compartment, but again, don’t expect to see big gains as manufacturers claim.  It will be more than just adding a K&N or K&N filter charger kit, or pulling the silencer, but we’re still only talking about a few horses. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus.

IIRC, the 96-98 GT’s benefit from the removal of the silencer, while the 99-00’s do not.  I would also think that increased air flow would outweigh the heat produced from the engine, thus gaining a couple of horsies. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit?

If you want the most HP from a filter kit, get a CAI (cold air induction). This kit will place the air filter inside the fenderwell, away from all of the turbulence and heat coming from inside the engine compartment, but again, don’t expect to see big gains as manufacturers claim.  It will be more than just adding a K&N or K&N filter charger kit, or pulling the silencer, but we’re still only talking about a few horses. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

I would think that the increased airflow (the filter sucks air from all sides) makes more HP than you loose by taking in the heat from the engine compartment. I think if you could get cold air flowing through that K&N filter you would get even more HP, I wonder why they do not just design the kit to place the filter in the fender? Good point about the filter verses kit performance.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit? Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car. Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing?? The HP claims of aftermarket parts are usually *very* optimistic.  With the K&N, I would guess that you would probably only see about a 2-3 HP gain. I suggest if you actually want more/colder air, buy a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) like MAC or BBK or make your own.  I think MAC claims something like a 15 HP gain, but in all reality it is only about 4-6 HP if that. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

But I dont see how it can even get any increase in HP.  The engine heat would flow through the filter and defeat the whole purpose.  Wouldn’t it? If you believe taking off the intake silencer will actually lose HPs (like many on this NG and many magazines) then you must think that the K&N Air Charger is bogus. BTW, I’ve heard that just simply adding a K&N filter (NOT KIT) adds about 3-4hp.  So if the kit only adds 3-4 ( I assume the kit includes the filter ), then  why get the KIT????  Just get the filter…right?  Or do you get 3-4 HP from the filter and another 3-4 from the kit?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing?? The HP claims of aftermarket parts are usually *very* optimistic.  With the K&N, I would guess that you would probably only see about a 2-3 HP gain. I suggest if you actually want more/colder air, buy a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) like MAC or BBK or make your own.  I think MAC claims something like a 15 HP gain, but in all reality it is only about 4-6 HP if that. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

K&N quoted me $299 for a kit for my car. I think this is ridiculous considering it is just a filter with an adapter to marry up with the mass air sensor. Am I missing something? Why so much? Where can I get more info on the cold air kits?

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing??

Response:

Mine is only 89.99…. I saw it here http://www.performanceproducts.com/Catalog/KNENG/K&N%20Air%20Charger%… rmance%20Kit.asp

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – K&N quoted me $299 for a kit for my car. I think this is ridiculous considering it is just a filter with an adapter to marry up with the mass air sensor. Am I missing something? Why so much? Where can I get more info on the cold air kits? Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing??

Response:

K&N quoted me $299 for a kit for my car. I think this is ridiculous considering it is just a filter with an adapter to marry up with the mass air sensor. Am I missing something? Why so much? Where can I get more info on the cold air kits?

Go to www.macprod.com   They have pricing and info for their CAI kits. IIRC, the full kit (TB to filter) costs around $190 and is all chrome (very nice looking, IMO).  You can also get the other CAI kit that goes from the MAS to the filter for around $170.  Hope this helps. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

I agree with Scott.  If you can stick the air filter into the fender some how you will get more HP. — Lynn ( Houston TX ) 97GT  N/A http://home.swbell.net/shelly1/cash.htm http://home.swbell.net/shelly1/cars.html

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing?? The HP claims of aftermarket parts are usually *very* optimistic.  With the K&N, I would guess that you would probably only see about a 2-3 HP gain. I suggest if you actually want more/colder air, buy a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) like MAC or BBK or make your own.  I think MAC claims something like a 15 HP gain, but in all reality it is only about 4-6 HP if that. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Im thinking about buying the K&N Air Charged Performance kit (For my 2000 Stang, V6) but Im alittle confused. When I first got my Stang, I was told to take of the intake silencer to get some more HP.  But then I got on this newsgroup and everyone said that if you did that, you would actually lose HP becuase of the engine heat getting sucked up into the engine. This is the picture of what the K&N kit would look like in my car.  Look at the filter and how close it is to the engine (with no housing to prevent the hot air from entering).  K&N claims 12 HP gain but how is this set up any different from the situation with removing the intake silencer. I would think since the kit is so close to the engine, I would lose HP instead of gain.  What am I  missing??

The HP claims of aftermarket parts are usually *very* optimistic.  With the K&N, I would guess that you would probably only see about a 2-3 HP gain.  I suggest if you actually want more/colder air, buy a Cold Air Induction kit (CAI) like MAC or BBK or make your own.  I think MAC claims something like a 15 HP gain, but in all reality it is only about 4-6 HP if that. Scott 96 GT MAC cat-back BBK offroad h-pipe MAC cold air induction Steeda Tri-Ax shifter Synthetics

Response:

Question:

I want to re-route the clothes dryer vent on the house I just bought. It is an older house, 3 bedroom split level w/ half basement, circa 1962.  The dryer, located in the basement, currently vents up into the front yard right under a ’soffit’ that is under the bedrooms, about 4" above the ground.  I suspect moisture from the exhaust is kind of getting trapped under this soffit and causing some mold buildup since the dryer vent is hidden behind some bushes.  I think the bushes and the soffit together are trapping the exhaust.  I’d like to re-route it to the back yard from the basement. What is the maximum practical distance the dryer exhaust can run for your average (natural gas) clothes dryer?  I am going to do this right and use the rigid metal ducting like one would use on a furnace ducting, not that plastic flex crap.  I would think there might be some limitations for me on distance, rise and run, and or number of corners it turns (lint would get trapped in corners)?  Can fans (set inside an exhaust duct) be bought that extend the max distance?  The simpler the better.  Any suggestions much appreciated! Todd Haverstock —Share what you know. Learn what you don’t.—

Response:

What is the maximum practical distance the dryer exhaust can run for your average (natural gas) clothes dryer?

I don’t remember the # but I think it was at www.codecheck.com I’m not sure there is an average — best to check with the documents that came with the dryer.  If you don’t have them any more, the manufacturer should be able to tell you given the model number.  Certainly, higher capacity dryers will have bigger venting requirements than smaller ones. I would think there might be some limitations for me on distance, rise and run, and or number of corners it turns (lint would get trapped in corners)? I’ve never seen specific rise/run limits, but I guess it’s possible.  The number of corners is critical.  Each 90 degree bend counts the same as many (I seem to remember something like feet of straight pipe.  Also, corregated pipe counts as more feet than flat-wall pipe.

Corners are very critical….each bend is 5′ by code. Can fans (set inside an exhaust duct) be bought that extend the max distance? I’ve never heard of that being done, and can’t imagine it’s legal due to the lint built-up problem.

The do have special fans that can extend the distance.  The fans have to be built to handle the lint problem. Sanjay Nasta www.builtonline.com The Homeowner’s Resource

Response:

What is the maximum practical distance the dryer exhaust can run for your average (natural gas) clothes dryer?

I’m not sure there is an average — best to check with the documents that came with the dryer.  If you don’t have them any more, the manufacturer should be able to tell you given the model number.  Certainly, higher capacity dryers will have bigger venting requirements than smaller ones. I would think there might be some limitations for me on distance, rise and run, and or number of corners it turns (lint would get trapped in corners)?

I’ve never seen specific rise/run limits, but I guess it’s possible.  The number of corners is critical.  Each 90 degree bend counts the same as many (I seem to remember something like feet of straight pipe.  Also, corregated pipe counts as more feet than flat-wall pipe. Can fans (set inside an exhaust duct) be bought that extend the max distance?

I’ve never heard of that being done, and can’t imagine it’s legal due to the lint built-up problem. — New York University School of Medicine

Response:

Question:

Okay, I have yet another question for all the experts in this newsgroup. (Hope I’m not wearing out my welcome!) I’m wiring up a storm in my new construction before the walls go on. The latest thing I thought of is an antenna!  I’d like it mostly for radio stations, but maybe some day for TV.  (We live in a fairly small town, and it would be nice to get some stations from St. Paul 100 miles away, or even some of the weaker stations from Eau Claire 15 miles away that come in and out.) Radio Shack has an FM antenna and a TV antenna.  (What do AM radio antennas look like?  I’d love to pull in AM stations from the Twin Cities, since the one I listen to in Menomonie effectively shuts down at dusk… right when Bruce Williams comes on!) Anyway, I thought if I am some day going to have an antenna, I may as well run the wires through the walls.  Then I looked around our new neighborhood, and not a single house has an antenna on the roof.  I fear there may be some sort of covenant against it. So my question is, can I mount these antennas UNDER the roof, in the attic?  Will they be just as good? Also, should I run the wire from the antenna down to the "home" area in the basement where everything comes together (stereo, cable, phone, computer network)?  Can different antennas use the same wire, or should I run a seperate wire for each? Thanks,   – Tom A. I’d rather be ____  Thomas R. Arneberg | ** HOUSE FOR SALE! ** Barbershop  _|   _| SGI/Cray SV1e IC’s |  Eau Claire…see: Quartet!   (_)  (_) Chippewa Falls, WI | www.arneberg.com/house

Response:

Radio Shack has an FM antenna and a TV antenna.  (What do AM radio antennas look like?  I’d love to pull in AM stations from the Twin Cities, since the one I listen to in Menomonie effectively shuts down at dusk… right when Bruce Williams comes on!)

AM antennas are usually just a length of wire.  Any guage will do. Insulated or not makes no difference as long as it doesn’t rub bare metal.  HOWEVER, the bigger issue is: does your radio have a connector for an AM antenna?  If not, you lose a lot of the advantage although it will still help some.   There are inexpensive shortwave radios which cover the AM band and have external antenna connections.  That might be your best bet. So my question is, can I mount these antennas UNDER the roof, in the attic?  Will they be just as good?

Inside antennas will work as long as there isn’t a lot of metal nearby (metal roofs very bad, furnace ducting not good, etc.) I’ve even used transmitting antennas (ham radio) in the basement.  Not very good, but better than nothing. Also, should I run the wire from the antenna down to the "home" area in the basement where everything comes together (stereo, cable, phone, computer network)?  Can different antennas use the same wire, or should I run a seperate wire for each?

Ideally, antennas should be kept separate from other wires unless you are using coax cable.  Best to use separate leads to each antenna although sharing can be done.  Results depend on many factors. Ken – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Thanks,  - Tom A. I’d rather be ____  Thomas R. Arneberg | ** HOUSE FOR SALE! ** Barbershop  _|   _| SGI/Cray SV1e IC’s |  Eau Claire…see: Quartet!   (_)  (_) Chippewa Falls, WI | www.arneberg.com/house

Response:

Question:

I had a Spaceguard filter installed in my hot air system a couple weeks ago.

Is this the Honeywell electronic (actually electrostatic) one? Don.

Response:

Ben, We installed an active electronic air cleaner in the same place that the cell filter normally occupies.  It works very well and can be easily cleaned.  It works by passing an electric current through wires which trap the allergens.  The one we use is made by Trion, although Honeywell also makes them. John – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We have a 20-year old Honeywell electronic cell filter in our furnace ducting system. When the heating season starts, I can smell the baked dust coming through the vents. Honeywell filters are nearly impossible to get clean: I use a special purpose spray and soak in a tub but can see that glued on carbon remains where it is inaccessible. I wonder if anybody has replaced their Honeywell with something more maintainable, such as Spaceguard et al with good results or has found a way to really clean the closely spaced metal sheets in the Honeywell (perhaps it has seen its day and should either be overhauled or disposed of). A second point: some years ago, we had our vents cleaned–perhaps lightly from the basement level. There are controversies about how much good even a thorough vent job does, and about the different methods (beater, broom etc). Are there any suggestions based on your experience?

Response:

We have a 20-year old Honeywell electronic cell filter in our furnace ducting system. When the heating season starts, I can smell the baked dust coming through the vents. Honeywell filters are nearly impossible to get clean: I use a special purpose spray and soak in a tub but can see that glued on carbon remains where it is inaccessible. I wonder if anybody has replaced their Honeywell with something more maintainable, such as Spaceguard et al with good results or has found a way to really clean the closely spaced metal sheets in the Honeywell (perhaps it has seen its day and should either be overhauled or disposed of). A second point: some years ago, we had our vents cleaned–perhaps lightly from the basement level. There are controversies about how much good even a thorough vent job does, and about the different methods (beater, broom etc). Are there any suggestions based on your experience?

Response:

I had a Spaceguard filter installed in my hot air system a couple weeks ago. Also had some ductboard (pressed fiberglass board duct) in the system replaced with real metal ducting. Tightened up system so it no longer sucks in bad air from my humid/mouldy cellar. Before, I just had an el-cheapo standard coarse filter. Now I have the course filter as a pre-filter to my Spaceguard. I live in NH, and last two years (since I lived here) were bad. I was dreading this year. My total cost was $750 for the new duct work and filter. So far I am thrilled with the results. The air smells clean and looks clean. My thermostat has a fan-on setting that keeps the air circulating even when not heating. When I vacuum, I leave fan on to clean the air. My next goal by next spring is to add better water draining system in cellar, since floor actually floods a few inches in spring. I also bought a good de-humidifier for the summer (sears 50 pint). Just for the record, I’m alergic to horses (I have 2), dust, hay, mould, and any chemical smell. Also, I’m alergic to foods and notice a big improvement when I stay away from wheat. I take Vanceril and Proventil, buy in last couple weeks am off Vanceril and doing OK. Take Proventil at bed time only. Found good dust masks for around horses and hay – they are another great discovery. That’s enough for now, but after 15 years with asthma, and going down hill for the last two, I feel that things are improving, thanks primarily to my improved heating system. But, as I’ve found out many times, it takes more than two weeks to evaluate whether something is really a long term improvement, or just a glitch. Check with me in the spring. Irv

Response: