this idea – deep freezing stuf to make it better is facinating. Send any metallic instrument, or instrument part to this guy and he will teat it for you  Cryogenics International’s precision deep cryogenic process for the improvement of cymbals, saxophones, trumpets, horns, guitar strings, piano strings, pick-ups, cords, etc. The reason why many instruments do not sound as great as they could and can be fatiguing to play is STRESS. Stresses induced from the manufacturing process, i.e. heating, bending, porting, etc. affects the sound quality of musical instruments. These imperfections are roadblocks in the way of perfect music. Through advances by Cryogenics International, these internal stresses and imperfections can be removed through precise deep cryogenic processing. Our process will: Provide stress relief (Read about stress-relief) Refine and more evenly distribute molecular structure Makes the instrument or component more uniform throughout  What this means to you: Your sax, trumpet, horn, etc. will exhibit the refined, regal qualities you most desire. Your instrument will be less fatiguing to play Improved tonal qualities Smoother sliding valves Assurances: Our cryogenic process will not harm the look or finish to any instrument and we handle everything with extreme care. Hell also fix up your gun barrels and brake rotators. PMG I figure this would especially appeal to you. here’s how he does it: http://www.cryogenicsinternational.com/posfdbk.htm so skip buying cryogenically treated components and just send Charles Beresford your completed project. "This is a long-term benefit, and permanent under most audio conditions I can think of. When you subject the material to deep cryogenic temperatures, the molecules give up their randomness, and in the process, form nearly defect-free structures that exhibit incredible bonds with one another. These bonds are virtually unmovable, leaving the process permanent. After our process, your cables and components do not need to be processed again, unless you choose to. "

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – this idea – deep freezing stuf to make it better is facinating. Send any metallic instrument, or instrument part to this guy and he will teat it for you  Cryogenics International’s precision deep cryogenic process for the improvement of cymbals, saxophones, trumpets, horns, guitar strings, piano strings, pick-ups, cords, etc. The reason why many instruments do not sound as great as they could and can be fatiguing to play is STRESS. Stresses induced from the manufacturing process, i.e. heating, bending, porting, etc. affects the sound quality of musical instruments. These imperfections are roadblocks in the way of perfect music. Through advances by Cryogenics International, these internal stresses and imperfections can be removed through precise deep cryogenic processing. Our process will: Provide stress relief (Read about stress-relief) Refine and more evenly distribute molecular structure Makes the instrument or component more uniform throughout  What this means to you: Your sax, trumpet, horn, etc. will exhibit the refined, regal qualities you most desire. Your instrument will be less fatiguing to play Improved tonal qualities Smoother sliding valves Assurances: Our cryogenic process will not harm the look or finish to any instrument and we handle everything with extreme care. Hell also fix up your gun barrels and brake rotators. PMG I figure this would especially appeal to you. here’s how he does it: http://www.cryogenicsinternational.com/posfdbk.htm so skip buying cryogenically treated components and just send Charles Beresford your completed project. "This is a long-term benefit, and permanent under most audio conditions I can think of. When you subject the material to deep cryogenic temperatures, the molecules give up their randomness, and in the process, form nearly defect-free structures that exhibit incredible bonds with one another. These bonds are virtually unmovable, leaving the process permanent. After our process, your cables and components do not need to be processed again, unless you choose to. "

This treatment works great for keeping the edges of knives hard and sharp, but I doubt it would be of much use musically…it’s the defects that help set up all those rich harmonic overtones. Not to mention that I think it would make your strings brittle and they’d break the first time you bent them… —       – Rufus

Response:

This treatment works great for keeping the edges of knives hard and sharp, but I doubt it would be of much use musically…it’s the defects that help set up all those rich harmonic overtones. Not to mention that I think it would make your strings brittle and they’d break the first time you bent them…

And if you try playing with your teeth, your tongue might stick to the strings. — If it ain’t broken, fix it till it is.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This treatment works great for keeping the edges of knives hard and sharp, but I doubt it would be of much use musically…it’s the defects that help set up all those rich harmonic overtones. Not to mention that I think it would make your strings brittle and they’d break the first time you bent them… And if you try playing with your teeth, your tongue might stick to the strings. — If it ain’t broken, fix it till it is.

tell that to marketing at Pete Grant  "I heartily endorse John Pearse Strings and John Pearse

Cryogenic treatment is a process where a product (VACUUM TUBES)is tempered in a deep freeze process(-300F) for 48 hrs. This process produces a permanent change in the metals inside this product making it stronger and longer lasting. Tools, instruments, knives, razor blades, machinery parts have been Cryo Treated for many years.Why do this to tubes? Tubes are mostly metal inside so Cryo treating tubes has the following benefits: permanent change in the metals at the molecular level(more uniform grain structure of metals), longer lasting, tightens internal parts of the tube allowing for more efficient operation; superior conductivity! SONIC IMPROVEMENTS FROM "CRYO TREATED" TUBES: LOWER NOISE FLOOR,lower distortion, extended frequency response at the extremes, greatly increased resolution and transparency. You will hear information from the recording you barely, or never heard before, especially at the back of the stage! Bass response is greatly improved, treble is sweeter but more extended. Cryo treated tubes just sound much better and more effortless than a non-treated tube!!!

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cryogenic treatment is a process where a product (VACUUM TUBES)is tempered in a deep freeze process(-300F) for 48 hrs. This process produces a permanent change in the metals inside this product making it stronger and longer lasting. Tools, instruments, knives, razor blades, machinery parts have been Cryo Treated for many years.Why do this to tubes? Tubes are mostly metal inside so Cryo treating tubes has the following benefits: permanent change in the metals at the molecular level(more uniform grain structure of metals), longer lasting, tightens internal parts of the tube allowing for more efficient operation; superior conductivity! SONIC IMPROVEMENTS FROM "CRYO TREATED" TUBES: LOWER NOISE FLOOR,lower distortion, extended frequency response at the extremes, greatly increased resolution and transparency. You will hear information from the recording you barely, or never heard before, especially at the back of the stage! Bass response is greatly improved, treble is sweeter but more extended. Cryo treated tubes just sound much better and more effortless than a non-treated tube!!!

Got any examples of commercially available product? Any reviews out there? It sounds interesting. I don’t have the tech chops to judge, but you got me curious. Chuck

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cryogenic treatment is a process where a product (VACUUM TUBES)is tempered in a deep freeze process(-300F) for 48 hrs. This process produces a permanent change in the metals inside this product making it stronger and longer lasting. Tools, instruments, knives, razor blades, machinery parts have been Cryo Treated for many years.Why do this to tubes? Tubes are mostly metal inside so Cryo treating tubes has the following benefits: permanent change in the metals at the molecular level(more uniform grain structure of metals), longer lasting, tightens internal parts of the tube allowing for more efficient operation; superior conductivity! SONIC IMPROVEMENTS FROM "CRYO TREATED" TUBES: LOWER NOISE FLOOR,lower distortion, extended frequency response at the extremes, greatly increased resolution and transparency. You will hear information from the recording you barely, or never heard before, especially at the back of the stage! Bass response is greatly improved, treble is sweeter but more extended. Cryo treated tubes just sound much better and more effortless than a non-treated tube!!! Got any examples of commercially available product? Any reviews out there? It sounds interesting. I don’t have the tech chops to judge, but you got me curious. Chuck

   Cryo treatment is used to reduce metal fatigue. You ever see a vacuum tube fail from metal fatigue?    Anybody claiming that cryo "tightens internal parts" and gives "superior conductivity" to vacuum tubes is selling snake oil.

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cryogenic treatment is a process where a product (VACUUM TUBES)is tempered in a deep freeze process(-300F) for 48 hrs. This process produces a permanent change in the metals inside this product making it stronger and longer lasting. Tools, instruments, knives, razor blades, machinery parts have been Cryo Treated for many years.Why do this to tubes? Tubes are mostly metal inside so Cryo treating tubes has the following benefits: permanent change in the metals at the molecular level(more uniform grain structure of metals), longer lasting, tightens internal parts of the tube allowing for more efficient operation; superior conductivity! SONIC IMPROVEMENTS FROM "CRYO TREATED" TUBES: LOWER NOISE FLOOR,lower distortion, extended frequency response at the extremes, greatly increased resolution and transparency. You will hear information from the recording you barely, or never heard before, especially at the back of the stage! Bass response is greatly improved, treble is sweeter but more extended. Cryo treated tubes just sound much better and more effortless than a non-treated tube!!! Got any examples of commercially available product? Any reviews out there? It sounds interesting. I don’t have the tech chops to judge, but you got me curious. Chuck

Got Google?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cryogenic treatment is a process where a product (VACUUM TUBES)is tempered in a deep freeze process(-300F) for 48 hrs. This process produces a permanent change in the metals inside this product making it stronger and longer lasting. Tools, instruments, knives, razor blades, machinery parts have been Cryo Treated for many years.Why do this to tubes? Tubes are mostly metal inside so Cryo treating tubes has the following benefits: permanent change in the metals at the molecular level(more uniform grain structure of metals), longer lasting, tightens internal parts of the tube allowing for more efficient operation; superior conductivity! SONIC IMPROVEMENTS FROM "CRYO TREATED" TUBES: LOWER NOISE FLOOR,lower distortion, extended frequency response at the extremes, greatly increased resolution and transparency. You will hear information from the recording you barely, or never heard before, especially at the back of the stage! Bass response is greatly improved, treble is sweeter but more extended. Cryo treated tubes just sound much better and more effortless than a non-treated tube!!! Got any examples of commercially available product? Any reviews out there? It sounds interesting. I don’t have the tech chops to judge, but you got me curious. Chuck   Cryo treatment is used to reduce metal fatigue. You ever see a vacuum tube fail from metal fatigue?   Anybody claiming that cryo "tightens internal parts" and gives "superior conductivity" to vacuum tubes is selling snake oil.

I think it probably _does_ provide "superior conductivity" *-at* those temperatures! I really don’t know _what_ it means operationally at the temp the tube gets to in the amp. Nonetheless, when I bought a 12AY7 equiv. for the first stage gain in my ‘59 Fender Bassman 5F6A R.I., I picked out a GE "Five Star" 6072a. I’ve been exceptionally pleased with the amp, but can’t isolate that tube as a reason, since simultaneously, I switched out the SS rectifier for a Mullard GZ34 and the other two preamp tubes for Mullard ECC83’s. I also ditched the factory "Groove Tubes" (Sovteks) for a matched pair of SED Winged C 6L6GC’s. While i was at it, I tested and reversed all the speaker leads so the amp "plays forward", pushing air in phase. Also, I tightened up the cab w/ _6_ tinted coats of Zinser Bulls Eye Shellac. I couldn’t care less if the next guy _ever_ screams "snake oil". As a player, I do the best research I can and implement the changes. If it sounds great to me and/or leads me to play more often, better (a virtuous circle if ever there was one), then it’s a good thang. Next guy can come suck a cold fart outta my ass -he needs to concern himself with his oen shizzle, not mine . mvm

Response:

I think it probably _does_ provide "superior conductivity" *-at* those temperatures!

At those temperatures, I don’t imagine electrons are all that vigorous… At any rate, I ain’t buyin’ the cryo-junque. -Dave

Response:

I think it probably _does_ provide "superior conductivity" *-at* those temperatures! At those temperatures, I don’t imagine electrons are all that vigorous… At any rate, I ain’t buyin’ the cryo-junque. -Dave

   A good testing used RCA 12AX7A/ECC83 in the first socket would sound just as good or better, at less than a quarter of the cryo tubes cost. It would probably last just as long.    When my dad went from tubes to a solid state ham rig in the nineties, I got boxes of NOS and used RCA, GE, Allied and Amperex stuff, with a few Mullards thrown in. Most of the stuff won’t work in a Fender or Marshall, but what does, gives a lot of insight on how the different designs affect the tone, especially in the first socket.    I’ve bought some of the repro tubes out there, a few are quite good. Nothing, however gets the full, rich sound out of my Princeton or Marshall like the old RCA.

Response:

Do you have any NOS tubes that are cryo? I have a gig coming up and want to sound really good. And I’m afraid if I don’t have NOS cryo, well I just won’t cut through the mix. I play with a LOT of gain, BTW. So I hope those NOS, Cryo tubes are also high gain. Does anyone know how to play a Bb? I don’t know that one. I suppose a B will do.

Response:

Do you have any NOS tubes that are cryo? I have a gig coming up and want to sound really good. And I’m afraid if I don’t have NOS cryo, well I just won’t cut through the mix. I play with a LOT of gain, BTW. So I hope those NOS, Cryo tubes are also high gain.

Be careful… there’s cryo treatments out there where they use *new*, not NOS, LN2 for the procedure. Demand the good stuff!  Old Nitrogen Rules! __ Steve .

Response:

I think it probably _does_ provide "superior conductivity" *-at* those temperatures! At those temperatures, I don’t imagine electrons are all that vigorous… At any rate, I ain’t buyin’ the cryo-junque. -Dave

Super conductivity at super low temperatures was discovered decades ago, you imbecile. Buy what you want- who gives a fat baby’s dick?

Response:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think it probably _does_ provide "superior conductivity" *-at* those temperatures! At those temperatures, I don’t imagine electrons are all that vigorous… At any rate, I ain’t buyin’ the cryo-junque. -Dave   A good testing used RCA 12AX7A/ECC83 in the first socket would sound just as good or better, at less than a quarter of the cryo tubes cost. It would probably last just as long.

Prove it.

Response:

http://policy.iop.org/v_production/v9.html – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I think it probably _does_ provide "superior conductivity" *-at* those temperatures! At those temperatures, I don’t imagine electrons are all that vigorous… At any rate, I ain’t buyin’ the cryo-junque. -Dave

Response:

I don’t care what it claims to do. I ain’t paying those https://www.tubeworld.com/kuhltubestock.htm – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Cryogenic treatment is a process where a product (VACUUM TUBES)is tempered in a deep freeze process(-300F) for 48 hrs. This process produces a permanent change in the metals inside this product making it stronger and longer lasting. Tools, instruments, knives, razor blades, machinery parts have been Cryo Treated for many years.Why do this to tubes? Tubes are mostly metal inside so Cryo treating tubes has the following benefits: permanent change in the metals at the molecular level(more uniform grain structure of metals), longer lasting, tightens internal parts of the tube allowing for more efficient operation; superior conductivity! SONIC IMPROVEMENTS FROM "CRYO TREATED" TUBES: LOWER NOISE FLOOR,lower distortion, extended frequency response at the extremes, greatly increased resolution and transparency. You will hear information from the recording you barely, or never heard before, especially at the back of the stage! Bass response is greatly improved, treble is sweeter but more extended. Cryo treated tubes just sound much better and more effortless than a non-treated tube!!!

Response:

Do you have any NOS tubes that are cryo? I have a gig coming up and want to sound really good. And I’m afraid if I don’t have NOS cryo, well I just won’t cut through the mix. I play with a LOT of gain, BTW. So I hope those NOS, Cryo tubes are also high gain. Be careful… there’s cryo treatments out there where they use *new*, not NOS, LN2 for the procedure. Demand the good stuff!  Old Nitrogen Rules! __ Steve .

funny guy there, old nitrogen, like old marble, old granite, old air. on sale here www.watfordvalves.com/special.asp now, what if we realign your molecules? http://www.sikeston.k12.mo.us/gwilliams/images/cryo.jpg

Response:

on sale here www.watfordvalves.com/special.asp

Response:

Do you have any NOS tubes that are cryo? I have a gig coming up and want to sound really good. And I’m afraid if I don’t have NOS cryo, well I just won’t cut through the mix. I play with a LOT of gain, BTW. So I hope those NOS, Cryo tubes are also high gain. Does anyone know how to play a Bb? I don’t know that one. I suppose a B will do.

A B will do but ony if you play it on http://www.deanmarkley.com/Strings/BlueSteelStrings.shtml "That’s right, this is the one everyone’s been talking about. It’s simply amazing what a little -320

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote:

Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com wrote in news:BZqdnZGkT8JDOqHeRVn- p…@comcast.com: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. You’re not evil enough.

I think that might be the problem. Every time I’ve tried to do those fuckers a favor, they’ve taken it as their due and then tried to squeeze me for more. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote:

"lisa" <ms_jade…@hotmail.com wrote in news:1128051473.455286.244780 @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again. Sorry for being nosy, but why did you get divorced? P.S. I used to  love how this guy at the rental office would tell me, "THE HEATER IS WORKING! IT JUST TAKES TIME TO WARM UP!"  Asshole.

There is a NEW furnace at my house. It’s a NICE house. The little spoiled rich bitches think that I’m supposed to come over and clean it for them. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Lash Rambo wrote:

Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com wrote in news:BZqdnZGkT8JDOqHeRVn- p…@comcast.com: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. Just one more day, Mrs. Dolores.  I’ll get you your rent in just one more day!

I wish you were my tenant. You’re not a retarded spoiled brat, or at least I don’t think you are. You can recognize laundry soap when you see it, right? And also, you don’t let your dish drainer drain directly onto the counter? You’re so in. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Ms Poopie Pants wrote:

On Thu, 29 Sep 2005 19:50:07 -0700, Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. U R A, landlord? What doo u own that maaks u so miserabble?

A cute little pink cottage that I bought when I was a single mom. We needed more room when I married Greg so we bought a slightly larger bungalow with room for expansion, and rented my house out, but I am SO SELLING it. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. — Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Dolores wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this.

Response:

"Jim Winters" <extremereactionfo…@yahoo.com

wrote in

news:1128049521.493422.214770@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Dolores wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this.

"I pay you to squeeze and you squeeze them to pay!" Name that Dickens! — "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com

wrote in news:BZqdnZGkT8JDOqHeRVn-

p…@comcast.com:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

You’re not evil enough. — "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

"Jim Winters" <extremereactionfo…@yahoo.com wrote in news:1128049521.493422.214770@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: Dolores wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this. "I pay you to squeeze and you squeeze them to pay!" Name that Dickens!

It’s got to be Oliver Twist. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

— "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

Dolores wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

— Operated by a naked and petrified Natalie Portman with hot grits stuffed down her panties. (-August Pamplona, 2005) —— http://sinmonkey.com/assgallery/

Response:

Dolores <weaselpant…@sinmonkey.com

wrote in news:BZqdnZGkT8JDOqHeRVn-

p…@comcast.com:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

Just one more day, Mrs. Dolores.  I’ll get you your rent in just one more day!

Response:

Dolores wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

I’m currently doing a little pro bono work with another lawyer who is suing a property management company for slipping in a 60 move-out clause into a series of three-month leases, then charging the (poor Hispanic) tenants a huge penalty when they only give 30 days notice. 30 days is, of course, the overwhelming move-out notice required, and it’s NEVER present in a 90-day lease. This is clearly a preditory use of a liquidated damages clause on unsophisticated parties. Coats

Response:

Dolores wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it.

I wouldn’t do it for love or money. Buy, sell, buy, sell to infinity. There’s no way to avoid a loss when you rent.

Response:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote:

I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this. "I pay you to squeeze and you squeeze them to pay!" Name that Dickens!

Scrooge in "A Christmas Carol"?

Response:

Largo wrote:

Dolores wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right, I FUCKING HATE it. I’m currently doing a little pro bono work with another lawyer who is suing a property management company for slipping in a 60 move-out clause into a series of three-month leases, then charging the (poor Hispanic) tenants a huge penalty when they only give 30 days notice. 30 days is, of course, the overwhelming move-out notice required, and it’s NEVER present in a 90-day lease. This is clearly a preditory use of a liquidated damages clause on unsophisticated parties.

Well.  There it is. If it weren’t pro bono, may I ask how much this little tidbit would’ve cost us irl? You’re probably not going to answer that either, but a girl can dream.

Response:

LisatheSequel <dontmai…@goaway.com

wrote in news:dhikr4$cj5$3

@swifty.westend.com: – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote: I hate being a landlord like you wouldn’t believe. Yes, that’s right,

I

FUCKING HATE it. The next time I’m about to give my landlord a hard time for not fixing the roof, I will think of this. "I pay you to squeeze and you squeeze them to pay!" Name that Dickens! Scrooge in "A Christmas Carol"?

I think it was Bleak House.  It was the one that was made into a movie with Derek Jacobi. — "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

"lisa" <ms_jade…@hotmail.com

wrote in news:1128051473.455286.244780

@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again.

Sorry for being nosy, but why did you get divorced? P.S. I used to  love how this guy at the rental office would tell me, "THE HEATER IS WORKING! IT JUST TAKES TIME TO WARM UP!"  Asshole. — "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

In news:Xns96E164C03D78Bnewbnewbcom@68.6.19.6, Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia <n…@newb.com

wrote : "lisa" <ms_jade…@hotmail.com wrote in news:1128051473.455286.244780 @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again. Sorry for being nosy, but why did you get divorced? P.S. I used to  love how this guy at the rental office would tell me, "THE HEATER IS WORKING! IT JUST TAKES TIME TO WARM UP!"  Asshole.

    And the best thing is that, 2 years later, when you’re moving out, they’re telling you "hmm, looks like you broke the heater…" !!!

Response:

Mad Mambo Master of Macedonia wrote:

"lisa" <ms_jade…@hotmail.com wrote in news:1128051473.455286.244780 @g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com: I was a landlord.  Once.  Never again. Sorry for being nosy, but why did you get divorced?

Do you want the reason I had at the time, or do you want to know what I think it was in retrospect?

P.S. I used to  love how this guy at the rental office would tell me, "THE HEATER IS WORKING! IT JUST TAKES TIME TO WARM UP!"  Asshole.

Sounds like my furnace company serviceman.  He sold me a POS furnace that’s had to have a poorly designed ignitor replaced on it every year for the 5 years I’ve had it, each time at a charge of about $160!  The last time they fixed it I was told by the serviceman that the company had redesigned their ignitors and that since I’d had so many replaced he thought the company would not charge me this time and told me to wait to pay it.  A few weeks later they mailed the bill.  I didn’t pay it.  They called and asked where is the money?  I told them I was going to call the company (TRANE) to complain.  I never got around to it. About a month later they said if I didn’t pay the $$ they would not be able to come to service it again.  I wrote them back and said oh, so you are threatening me with freezing to death over a $160 bill that I shouldn’t have had anyway if TRANE hadn’t poorly designed the ignitor to begin with? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

— "You tried to scan me, you freaked-out maniac." –TV’s Frank.

Response:

F

I drove the car today during the day today to go grocery shopping (around 5 miles round trip) during the day and the charging system light did not come on. I took the car for a 10 minute spin around town (mixture of highway and city streets) later when it was dark out with the lights on and the light only came on a couple times.

It’s the brushes! You can get an entire new brush holder assembly from the dealer for about $20 and easily fix it yourself with the alternator in- situ. — TeGGeR

A few months back I was stranded when my ‘87 prelude died on the road. Started with a very minor intermittent hesitation, proceeded to a severe loss of power and hard miss every few seconds, and within an hour at highway speed it finally quit running completely.  Would not restart.  Fuel pump ran for a few seconds when the key was turned, so I quickly ruled out the main relay.  (I had resoldered the joints a few years back.)  Cranked but wouldn’t ‘catch’. It sat overnight until I could get a trailer.  Once it had cooled off it would start and run for 10-20 seconds, but not with enough power to actually move the car. Replaced fuel filter–no help.  Checked and found no spark. Replaced distributor (including ignitor and pickup coils)–yes! Fast forward a few months.  Car is rarely driven, at least until last week.  This evening I noticed the very minor miss on the way home from work, and sure enough it progressed just as before.  This time I found a nice parking lot to stop in *before* it died completely. Come to think of it, I did notice that the tach was bouncing up a few hundred RPM every few seconds when the car was cold and at fast idle …maybe that was a warning? The distributor is a reman with lifetime warranty, so I’ll pick one up and either change the entire unit, or maybe just the ignitor module (if I can get to it).  But, I’m thinking an aftermarket reman distributor should last more than 500 miles.   So, what else should I be looking at?  Does anyone know of any other common failure points? Last time, the coil checked fine.  I’m considering changing it anyway. The little radio noise condenser checked fine last time too. Is there anything that could be causing this car to eat ignitors? Or maybe it’s not the ignitor at all? thanks! newell

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There are many no start conditions so here are just a couple: You could check the ignitor by putting a small bulb across the coil’s primary. If you see it flash, your ignitor is most likely not your problem (I’ve checked them with a scope, but someone here taught me the bulb trick which is a lot more convenient). If you do replace the ignitor, be sure to apply some heat sink compound under the device. It will get rid of generated heat and prolong the life of the ignitor. About those RPM bounces on the tach, do you think they were real engine speed changes or just an indicator change? Your crankshaft position sensor determines your fuel injection timing and measures your engine speed, etc. Maybe that thing is not working right or has a bad connection. On an integra the crankshaft sensor is a simple go/nogo continuity check. You may want to check your manual on how to inspect that sensor. Remco

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I suppose it would be important as well to know  if this is a Prelude Si (fuel injected) or an S (dual carbs)…. t

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It could be a screw sunk into the wood, a ground lug, the back of a pot  - anyplace that can act as a ground.The idea is to connect all your ground wires to a central point. This is sometimes known as "star grounding". Since you asked, I’d say you should double check your cavity shielding and make sure it’s grounded. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "I am quite sure now that often, very often, in matters concerning religion and politics a man’s reasoning powers are not above the monkey’s." – Mark Twain – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – 2) Make sure your cavity shielding is also grounded to a central point. what is a central point? —  -Jonathan __REALLY__ JUST UPDATED (10-08-04) with __THREE__ new songs! Go to http://www.guestroomproject.com/ to hear some music from my upcoming solo album, the Guestroom Project.  I play all the instruments. *sigh* Listen: 1) Buy the Duncan Bassline MM pickup and 3 band preamp. It’s pretty much the best aftermarket MM bass pickup you can buy, and it blows away anything you could possibly get from EB. follow the instructions carefully when installing. 2) Make sure your cavity shielding is also grounded to a central point. If you did and it’s still humming, it sounds like you have a hot wire crossed with a ground. A miswired stereo jack would be my first guess, followed by a miswire or defect in the Carvin circuit board. None of this will matter as you will be gutting the bass anyway. Just pay closer attention to your grounding points this time. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "I am quite sure now that often, very often, in matters concerning religion and politics a man’s reasoning powers are not above the monkey’s." – Mark Twain Sorry to deluge AGB with posts….. here’s my situation. I made a fretless bass some time ago and used Carvin active j-bass style stacked humbuckers.    I’m not at all happy with that setup. The pickups/electronics are extremely noise and suseptable to environmental interference. I love my Musicman pickup, but I’m finding that I can’t buy a replacement. Seymour Duncan has a knock off, but I can’t vouch for it. so my question is: Can anyone recommend a good pickup/active electronics for a fretless bass. I like the MWAH-ish fretless sound, punchy, not crackly, etc. (for an example of my fretless playing style, check out this song: http://www.guestroomproject.com/Mad%20at%20the%20Sun.mp3 — I play all the instruments, and I use my fretless on that track.  I’m happy with the tone, but I needed to process it a ton in order to get my desired sound). Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks! —  -Jonathan __REALLY__ JUST UPDATED (10-08-04) with __THREE__ new songs! Go to http://www.guestroomproject.com/ to hear some music from my upcoming solo album, the Guestroom Project.  I play all the instruments.

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2) Make sure your cavity shielding is also grounded to a central point. what is a central point? -Jonathan

As in, it’s all connected somehow, be it a strip of copper connecting the different areas of shielding or a wire soldered between the two…and then it’s grounded to one place. Brent

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*sigh* Listen: 1) Buy the Duncan Bassline MM pickup and 3 band preamp. It’s pretty much the best aftermarket MM bass pickup you can buy, and it blows away anything you could possibly get from EB. follow the instructions carefully when installing. 2) Make sure your cavity shielding is also grounded to a central point. If you did and it’s still humming, it sounds like you have a hot wire crossed with a ground. A miswired stereo jack would be my first guess, followed by a miswire or defect in the Carvin circuit board. None of this will matter as you will be gutting the bass anyway. Just pay closer attention to your grounding points this time. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "I am quite sure now that often, very often, in matters concerning religion and politics a man’s reasoning powers are not above the monkey’s." – Mark Twain – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry to deluge AGB with posts….. here’s my situation. I made a fretless bass some time ago and used Carvin active j-bass style stacked humbuckers.    I’m not at all happy with that setup. The pickups/electronics are extremely noise and suseptable to environmental interference. I love my Musicman pickup, but I’m finding that I can’t buy a replacement. Seymour Duncan has a knock off, but I can’t vouch for it. so my question is: Can anyone recommend a good pickup/active electronics for a fretless bass. I like the MWAH-ish fretless sound, punchy, not crackly, etc. (for an example of my fretless playing style, check out this song: http://www.guestroomproject.com/Mad%20at%20the%20Sun.mp3 — I play all the instruments, and I use my fretless on that track.  I’m happy with the tone, but I needed to process it a ton in order to get my desired sound). Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks! —  -Jonathan __REALLY__ JUST UPDATED (10-08-04) with __THREE__ new songs! Go to http://www.guestroomproject.com/ to hear some music from my upcoming solo album, the Guestroom Project.  I play all the instruments.

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2) Make sure your cavity shielding is also grounded to a central point.

what is a central point? —  -Jonathan __REALLY__ JUST UPDATED (10-08-04) with __THREE__ new songs! Go to http://www.guestroomproject.com/ to hear some music from my upcoming solo album, the Guestroom Project.  I play all the instruments.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – *sigh* Listen: 1) Buy the Duncan Bassline MM pickup and 3 band preamp. It’s pretty much the best aftermarket MM bass pickup you can buy, and it blows away anything you could possibly get from EB. follow the instructions carefully when installing. 2) Make sure your cavity shielding is also grounded to a central point. If you did and it’s still humming, it sounds like you have a hot wire crossed with a ground. A miswired stereo jack would be my first guess, followed by a miswire or defect in the Carvin circuit board. None of this will matter as you will be gutting the bass anyway. Just pay closer attention to your grounding points this time. — Learning funk bass? visit www.js3jazz.com/store.htm "I am quite sure now that often, very often, in matters concerning religion and politics a man’s reasoning powers are not above the monkey’s." – Mark Twain Sorry to deluge AGB with posts….. here’s my situation. I made a fretless bass some time ago and used Carvin active j-bass style stacked humbuckers.    I’m not at all happy with that setup. The pickups/electronics are extremely noise and suseptable to environmental interference. I love my Musicman pickup, but I’m finding that I can’t buy a replacement. Seymour Duncan has a knock off, but I can’t vouch for it. so my question is: Can anyone recommend a good pickup/active electronics for a fretless bass. I like the MWAH-ish fretless sound, punchy, not crackly, etc. (for an example of my fretless playing style, check out this song: http://www.guestroomproject.com/Mad%20at%20the%20Sun.mp3 — I play all the instruments, and I use my fretless on that track.  I’m happy with the tone, but I needed to process it a ton in order to get my desired sound). Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks! —  -Jonathan __REALLY__ JUST UPDATED (10-08-04) with __THREE__ new songs! Go to http://www.guestroomproject.com/ to hear some music from my upcoming solo album, the Guestroom Project.  I play all the instruments.

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Take a look at this web site – it has a troubleshooting guide for peoblems like yours: http://www.guitarnuts.com/index.php Good luck! –Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Your Carvin electronics should be very quiet.  It sounds like they’re not properly shielded and/or grounded. I thought of this too, but I checked and rechecked the wiring, and I was very careful when installing it the first time. Can you inform me of some typical mistakes?   I have the electronics cavity covered with that copper shielding, and I have the electronics grounded to the bridge saddle. There is something in my house causing the hum — I know this because the hum changes as I walk around the house.  but I don’t experience the hum on any of my (active or non-active) instruments.   The offending electronic isn’t in my flat, and I can’t really bother the other tenants with my problems, so I figured I would just change the electronics to something that I know doesn’t recieve the interference (i.e., my musicman stingray)

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Your Carvin electronics should be very quiet.  It sounds like they’re not properly shielded and/or grounded.

I thought of this too, but I checked and rechecked the wiring, and I was very careful when installing it the first time. Can you inform me of some typical mistakes?   I have the electronics cavity covered with that copper shielding, and I have the electronics grounded to the bridge saddle. There is something in my house causing the hum — I know this because the hum changes as I walk around the house.  but I don’t experience the hum on any of my (active or non-active) instruments.   The offending electronic isn’t in my flat, and I can’t really bother the other tenants with my problems, so I figured I would just change the electronics to something that I know doesn’t recieve the interference (i.e., my musicman stingray) —  -Jonathan __REALLY__ JUST UPDATED (10-08-04) with __THREE__ new songs! Go to http://www.guestroomproject.com/ to hear some music from my upcoming solo album, the Guestroom Project.  I play all the instruments. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Your Carvin electronics should be very quiet.  It sounds like they’re not properly shielded and/or grounded.  I installed a Carvin preamp in a fretless bass in 2003 and there were no problems with noise or environmental interference.  And my house is less that 100 feet from a PG&E high-voltage transmission tower. There are some other sources of Musicman-style pickups: www.mightymite.com (I’ve seen these on Ebay too) www.customshopparts.com (I’ve seen these on Ebay too) www.wdmusic.com –Steve Sorry to deluge AGB with posts….. here’s my situation. I made a fretless bass some time ago and used Carvin active j-bass style stacked humbuckers.    I’m not at all happy with that setup. The pickups/electronics are extremely noise and suseptable to environmental interference. I love my Musicman pickup, but I’m finding that I can’t buy a replacement. Seymour Duncan has a knock off, but I can’t vouch for it. so my question is: Can anyone recommend a good pickup/active electronics for a fretless bass. I like the MWAH-ish fretless sound, punchy, not crackly, etc. (for an example of my fretless playing style, check out this song: http://www.guestroomproject.com/Mad%20at%20the%20Sun.mp3 — I play all the instruments, and I use my fretless on that track.  I’m happy with the tone, but I needed to process it a ton in order to get my desired sound). Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

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Your Carvin electronics should be very quiet.  It sounds like they’re not properly shielded and/or grounded.  I installed a Carvin preamp in a fretless bass in 2003 and there were no problems with noise or environmental interference.  And my house is less that 100 feet from a PG&E high-voltage transmission tower. There are some other sources of Musicman-style pickups: www.mightymite.com (I’ve seen these on Ebay too) www.customshopparts.com (I’ve seen these on Ebay too) www.wdmusic.com –Steve – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Sorry to deluge AGB with posts….. here’s my situation. I made a fretless bass some time ago and used Carvin active j-bass style stacked humbuckers.    I’m not at all happy with that setup. The pickups/electronics are extremely noise and suseptable to environmental interference. I love my Musicman pickup, but I’m finding that I can’t buy a replacement. Seymour Duncan has a knock off, but I can’t vouch for it. so my question is: Can anyone recommend a good pickup/active electronics for a fretless bass. I like the MWAH-ish fretless sound, punchy, not crackly, etc. (for an example of my fretless playing style, check out this song: http://www.guestroomproject.com/Mad%20at%20the%20Sun.mp3 — I play all the instruments, and I use my fretless on that track.  I’m happy with the tone, but I needed to process it a ton in order to get my desired sound). Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

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Sorry to deluge AGB with posts….. here’s my situation. I made a fretless bass some time ago and used Carvin active j-bass style stacked humbuckers.    I’m not at all happy with that setup. The pickups/electronics are extremely noise and suseptable to environmental interference. I love my Musicman pickup, but I’m finding that I can’t buy a replacement. Seymour Duncan has a knock off, but I can’t vouch for it. so my question is: Can anyone recommend a good pickup/active electronics for a fretless bass. I like the MWAH-ish fretless sound, punchy, not crackly, etc. (for an example of my fretless playing style, check out this song: http://www.guestroomproject.com/Mad%20at%20the%20Sun.mp3 — I play all the instruments, and I use my fretless on that track.  I’m happy with the tone, but I needed to process it a ton in order to get my desired sound). Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks! —  -Jonathan __REALLY__ JUST UPDATED (10-08-04) with __THREE__ new songs! Go to http://www.guestroomproject.com/ to hear some music from my upcoming solo album, the Guestroom Project.  I play all the instruments.

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Hello all,     I hope everyone had a good Christmas, and will have a safe and festive new year.     I have been researching the concept of biodiesel for a few years, and although I may have come across the answers to my questions, I can’t find them now. Q1: Although biodiesel can be used in a diesel engine with no alteration of the engine itself, does the same apply to using it in a residential oil furnace? Q2: I also understand that, under certain circumstances, straight vegetable oil can be mixed with diesel in differing proportions, once again in a diesel engine. Can the same process be applied to an oil furnace? Q3: In order to make biodiesel, one needs lye and methanol. I’ve looked high and low for lye, and haven’t yet found a source for it. I suspect that methanol will be similarly difficult to obtain. Are there any good, reliable sources for either ingredient?     Thanks in advance …     J.     Jeremiah D. Seitz     Omega Techware     http://www.omegatechware.com     (moving, site may be down intermittently)

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Hi; Many people use ‘Red Devil’ lye available at Lowes. For test batches I use the yellow Heet from Walmart. see  photo in link. http://ourfarm1.home.mpinet.net/bioingreds.jpg Bead_runner

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Hello all,     I hope everyone had a good Christmas, and will have a safe and festive new year.     I have been researching the concept of biodiesel for a few years, and although I may have come across the answers to my questions, I can’t find them now. Q1: Although biodiesel can be used in a diesel engine with no alteration of the engine itself, does the same apply to using it in a residential oil furnace?

not in 100%. You can run biodiesel 50/50 with home heating oil with indoor  tanks or in warmer climates. Q2: I also understand that, under certain circumstances, straight vegetable oil can be mixed with diesel in differing proportions, once again in a diesel engine. Can the same process be applied to an oil furnace?

svo/wvo doesn’t work well straight or mixed with diesel in a diesel engine, unless it’s heated to 170F. It doesn’t work well at all in a home heating furnace unless modifications are made. see http://groups.yahoo.com/group/altfuelfurnace/ Q3: In order to make biodiesel, one needs lye and methanol. I’ve looked high and low for lye, and haven’t yet found a source for it. I suspect that methanol will be similarly difficult to obtain. Are there any good, reliable sources for either ingredient?

lye  is available  at most hardware stores and pharmacies. It’s called red devil. methanol is available as drygas (not the isopropyl). try heet brand (not isoheet).     Thanks in advance …     J.     Jeremiah D. Seitz     Omega Techware     http://www.omegatechware.com     (moving, site may be down intermittently)

Steve Spence Dir., Green Trust http://www.green-trust.org

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Q1: Although biodiesel can be used in a diesel engine with no alteration of the engine itself, does the same apply to using it in a residential oil furnace?

Whose got enough vegetable oil to justify a biodiesel making operation? otoh a corn furnace would justify a big food stockpile that could be good insurance against plague, nuclear war, political chaos, etc.

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Thank you very much for your input. I figured that the local HW store would have it, if anyone did. I was sadly wrong. They said something to the effect that it’s a restricted substance. I have never heard of such a thing, but I can imagine there being some factual basis for their statement. Thanks again!

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Steve, I was actually hoping you would reply, being (ime) somewhat of a BD authority. Hmm … Can I assume, from your answers, that the viscosity and/or flame propagation of biodiesel is affected by temperature moreso than heating oil is? Of course, the question is strictly academic at this point. I am more concerned with being pragmatic. In any event, I appreciate the response, as well as the links, which I’m sure will prove informative, once I get some sleep! Thanks again …

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Well, my situation is perhaps a bit unique. I originally began learning about biodiesel from reading this group, years back, and have always wanted to realize the concept. Being a talkative fellow, I try to ’spread the word’, so to speak. One of the people I have spoken to about biodiesel is the manager of a bar/restaurant that I patronize frequently. As many do, he pays to have his WVO removed, something on the order of ~50 gallons per week. Obviously, his ‘green’ feelings notwithstanding, he would be more than happy to have the WVO disposed of for free. Hence, I’ve got a a fairly steady supply of WVO available, free for the taking. As to the corn furnace, I agree with your views, but as I said above, my situation is fairly unique. I could spring for the other ingredients on my meager income, but a corn furnace is too pricey at the moment. Pragmatism winning out, I’m basically trying to use the resources I have in front of me. Have a good day!

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Q3: In order to make biodiesel, one needs lye and methanol. I’ve looked high and low for lye, and haven’t yet found a source for it. I suspect that methanol will be similarly difficult to obtain. Are there any good, reliable sources for either ingredient?

Lye is potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide, AKA "caustic potash" or "caustic soda."  Both used to be popular drain cleaners, but retail availability may be a problem in the United States since the rise of the Nanny State. Methanol is methyl alcohol, "wood alcohol."  It’s used as shellac thinner and as a fuel in chafing dishes and the like.

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In article Thank you very much for your input. I figured that the local HW store would have it, if anyone did. I was sadly wrong. They said something to the effect that it’s a restricted substance. I have never heard of such a thing, but I can imagine there being some factual basis for their statement.

Apparantly, lye is a major ingredient in illegal manufacturing of methamphetamine. There may be more paranoia and stricter policies in certain geographic areas. — Get Credit Where Credit Is Due http://www.cardreport.com/ Credit Tools, Reference, and Forum

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In article Q1: Although biodiesel can be used in a diesel engine with no alteration of the engine itself, does the same apply to using it in a residential oil furnace? Whose got enough vegetable oil to justify a biodiesel making operation?

The proprietor of a fish and chip shop or other fast- food outlet. otoh a corn furnace would justify a big food stockpile that could be good insurance against plague, nuclear war, political chaos, etc.

Even in a TEOTWAWKI collapse, biodisel might be produced with fairly modest fields of the more efficient crops.  Not sure if one person alone could manage it, though. — Get Credit Where Credit Is Due http://www.cardreport.com/ Credit Tools, Reference, and Forum

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We burn about 10 gallons of veggie oil a day in our generator. We make a bit of biodiesel for startup/shutdown. Steve Spence Dir., Green Trust http://www.green-trust.org – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Q1: Although biodiesel can be used in a diesel engine with no alteration of the engine itself, does the same apply to using it in a residential oil furnace? Whose got enough vegetable oil to justify a biodiesel making operation? otoh a corn furnace would justify a big food stockpile that could be good insurance against plague, nuclear war, political chaos, etc.

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veggie oil has a much higher viscosity than diesel. Heat is one way of reducing the viscosity. Biodiesel, although similar to diesel, gels at warmer temps than diesel. again, heat is your friend. you can start on diesel (home heating oil), then switch to heated biodiesel. or put your tank indoors where it never drops below 50F. Different burners have different responses to thicker fuels than diesel (HHO). Steve Spence Dir., Green Trust http://www.green-trust.org – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Steve, I was actually hoping you would reply, being (ime) somewhat of a BD authority. Hmm … Can I assume, from your answers, that the viscosity and/or flame propagation of biodiesel is affected by temperature moreso than heating oil is? Of course, the question is strictly academic at this point. I am more concerned with being pragmatic. In any event, I appreciate the response, as well as the links, which I’m sure will prove informative, once I get some sleep! Thanks again …

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red devil drain cleaner is universally available, AFAIK You can order larger quantities from a chem supplier. It helps to be a registered business. Steve Spence Dir., Green Trust http://www.green-trust.org – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – In article Thank you very much for your input. I figured that the local HW store would have it, if anyone did. I was sadly wrong. They said something to the effect that it’s a restricted substance. I have never heard of such a thing, but I can imagine there being some factual basis for their statement. Apparantly, lye is a major ingredient in illegal manufacturing of methamphetamine. There may be more paranoia and stricter policies in certain geographic areas.

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We burn about 10 gallons of veggie oil a day in our generator. We make a bit of biodiesel for startup/shutdown.

Do you know how many kWh you use a day, ie. have you done a kWh / L oil calculation? I have seen 2.12 kWh / L on vegetable oil somewhere (www.utterpower.com), do your fugures support this? Do you do any waste heat recovery? Regards Morten — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

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Whose got enough vegetable oil to justify a biodiesel making operation? The proprietor of a fish and chip shop or other fast- food outlet. otoh a corn furnace would justify a big food stockpile that could be good insurance against plague, nuclear war, political chaos, etc. Even in a TEOTWAWKI collapse, biodisel might be produced with fairly modest fields of the more efficient crops.  Not sure if one person alone could manage it, though.

I’d think very few fast food joints would remain open after a collapse (no more shipments of McNuggets), and all the available grease would be used for lighting once someone figured out how to put a wick in it. If you can’t make diesel that way now, you won’t be able to do it after a collapse. otoh, woodgas has a proven tack record in thousands of vehicles.

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Even in a TEOTWAWKI collapse [...]

And I feel fine.

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I don’t have a kwh meter large enough to track, but our previous home was around 35 kWh daily, or so. We use the heat from the engine to heat domestic hot water, and heat the veggie oil. Steve Spence Dir., Green Trust http://www.green-trust.org – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We burn about 10 gallons of veggie oil a day in our generator. We make a bit of biodiesel for startup/shutdown. Do you know how many kWh you use a day, ie. have you done a kWh / L oil calculation? I have seen 2.12 kWh / L on vegetable oil somewhere (www.utterpower.com), do your fugures support this? Do you do any waste heat recovery? Regards Morten — Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).

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We have made biodiesel from crops. It’s work, but it’s doable. Wicks don’t work well with veggie oil. Steve Spence Dir., Green Trust http://www.green-trust.org – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Whose got enough vegetable oil to justify a biodiesel making operation? The proprietor of a fish and chip shop or other fast- food outlet. otoh a corn furnace would justify a big food stockpile that could be good insurance against plague, nuclear war, political chaos, etc. Even in a TEOTWAWKI collapse, biodisel might be produced with fairly modest fields of the more efficient crops.  Not sure if one person alone could manage it, though. I’d think very few fast food joints would remain open after a collapse (no more shipments of McNuggets), and all the available grease would be used for lighting once someone figured out how to put a wick in it. If you can’t make diesel that way now, you won’t be able to do it after a collapse. otoh, woodgas has a proven tack record in thousands of vehicles.

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mechanics has trickled over to woodstoves (catalytic)and boilers years ago. The lack of power and other aspects have basically killed it’s chances of resurfacing again. If anything ,you would be pushing wood or pellet steam instead of woodgas.Given the technical advances over the years.It would give a two cycle gas engine a run for the money on performance and at the same time using "lightplant tricks" rival diesel on fuel comsumption.And yes there are Barrett and others.That have converted VW engines(half blocks),GMC diesel,etc. to steam.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Whose got enough vegetable oil to justify a biodiesel making operation? The proprietor of a fish and chip shop or other fast- food outlet. otoh a corn furnace would justify a big food stockpile that could be good insurance against plague, nuclear war, political chaos, etc. Even in a TEOTWAWKI collapse, biodisel might be produced with fairly modest fields of the more efficient crops.  Not sure if one person alone could manage it, though. I’d think very few fast food joints would remain open after a collapse (no more shipments of McNuggets), and all the available grease would be used for lighting once someone figured out how to put a wick in it. If you can’t make diesel that way now, you won’t be able to do it after a collapse. otoh, woodgas has a proven tack record in thousands of vehicles.

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Howdy Steve: You might do a search on growing and using algae instead of some other crop. I have read that the algae will double it’s growth in a day if done right, and you can get 50% oil, by weight, and with a second process, 70%. I read that you can get 5 lbs. of algae a day from a 15 foot diameter tank, though I am not sure how deep the tank was, but one of the main concern is light penetrating for photosynthesis, and feeding the stock with carbon dioxide, most tanks, or "race track" systems are 4 to 6 feet deep. You can use tubes to grow with, but you need to put in some kind of beads to keep the tubes clean. I’m not sure what type of algae will give the most oil, but the photos of systems I have looked up appears to be a green algae, opposed to red or brown. Some reports state the Salton Sea in CA would be an ideal site for the production of biodiesel, because the algae that the report would use is a salt water algae. If you had the property to build a raceway type system, you could salt it, and not worry about the salt going anywhere, just keep adding water that evaporates. I would consider a smaller system using tubes, or tanks myself. If you do a search using biodiesel and algae, you should come across the reports that I have found. See:Yaa:) Harbin – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – We have made biodiesel from crops. It’s work, but it’s doable. Wicks don’t work well with veggie oil.

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Yep, they predicted snow so of course we’re being hit with some really nasty sleet.  It sounds like popping corn outside! Looks like a winter wonderland but it’s actually an icy wondermess.  I’m glad I went to the store while it was still just raining.  In a few short hours it will be *treacherous* out there.  Thank goodness it was warm yesterday; it will take the stuff a while to freeze solid on the ground. Persia has been chattering away at all the wild birds on the patio.  I went out to refill the wooden feeder; the top is frozen solid to the base.  I had to simply scatter some seed around until I can get the top pried off to refill it properly. I was hoping to get some photos because the bright red cardinals look so great against the white background.  But I couldn’t get close enough to the window without scaring them; forget about actually going outside *with* them LOL  There were dark-eyed juncos, tufted titmice, sparrows, cardinals (mostly male but a few female).  Carolina chickadees were zipping about and there were even a couple of American robins eating fallen seed along with the mourning doves. Jill

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rec.pets.cats.anecdotes Yep, they predicted snow so of course we’re being hit with some really nasty sleet.  It sounds like popping corn outside! <snip Gah, I hate ice storms! Be very careful, you. We had snow the other day (not much, just enough to be annoying, and it was very very cold so it all stuck) and I slipped on the ice of a parking lot when I went out shopping. Landed hard on my knee, enough to dent the bone and man o man did it hurt! It hurt so bad I thought I was going to vomit.

OUCH!  Purrs your knee feels better.  We got about 3 inches (literally) of sleet.  When I refilled the bird feeder this morning, well, I weigh 120 lbs. and didn’t leave a footprint.  It’s a real mess.  I’m sure glad I don’t have to leave the house. Jill

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rec.pets.cats.anecdotes Yep, they predicted snow so of course we’re being hit with some really nasty sleet.  It sounds like popping corn outside! <snip Gah, I hate ice storms! Be very careful, you. We had snow the other day (not much, just enough to be annoying, and it was very very cold so it all stuck) and I slipped on the ice of a parking lot when I went out shopping. Landed hard on my knee, enough to dent the bone and man o man did it hurt! It hurt so bad I thought I was going to vomit.

Ouch!! purrs for your poor knee. — Adrian (Owned by Snoopy & Bagheera) A house is not a home, without a cat.

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Reminder to all to keep supplies in the home. I’m sure some of us know what it’s like to run out of food and can’t get to the store. Baha can tell us what it’s like to come home to a broken furnace. And not have a portable heater in the house to help at least keep one room fairly warm. Every year I hear of folks who get caught home without a bit to eat, when the storm hits. You got to buy food sooner or later, so do it sooner. And keep a kit in the car. Gloves, salt, sand, flash light, candles, matches, etc. — Christopher A. Young Keep Jesus Christ in CHRISTmas      www.lds.org      www.mormons.com

Yep, they predicted snow so of course we’re being hit with some really nasty sleet.  It sounds like popping corn outside! Looks like a winter wonderland but it’s actually an icy wondermess.  I’m glad I went to the store while it was still just raining.  In a few short hours it will be *treacherous* out there.  Thank goodness it was warm yesterday; it will take the stuff a while to freeze solid on the ground. Persia has been chattering away at all the wild birds on the patio.  I went out to refill the wooden feeder; the top is frozen solid to the base.  I had to simply scatter some seed around until I can get the top pried off to refill it properly. I was hoping to get some photos because the bright red cardinals look so great against the white background.  But I couldn’t get close enough to the window without scaring them; forget about actually going outside *with* them LOL  There were dark-eyed juncos, tufted titmice, sparrows, cardinals (mostly male but a few female).  Carolina chickadees were zipping about and there were even a couple of American robins eating fallen seed along with the mourning doves. Jill

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Hi All, I just thought I’d chime in about my new corn furnace. I searched the usenet archives and web for a long time doing research on corn/pellet furnaces and finally decided to buy a Traeger furnace, the GBU70 (70 kBTU model), configured to burn corn and other biomass/grains. It’s great! I have a 2400 sqft house with average insulation and windows, built in 1990. I could definitely go for better insulation and windows in the new house! But this 70k unit still puts out enough heat to keep the house warm this Winter (was 1 F, -17 C last night), and at a fraction of the cost of natural gas! Woohoo! I installed the furnace as an auxiliary furnace and tied it into my existing Bryant gas furnace. I installed an automatic one-way damper onto the corn unit and just put a block of plywood in place of the air filter on the gas unit to act as a damper. I installed a switch that allows my wife to switch between the two furnaces without messing with wires from the thermostat in case she runs out of corn or has other issues with the corn furnace while I’m away on business. One thing I underestimated is how difficult it would be to procure corn in central Ohio! I’m surrounded by corn and soybean fields, yet all of the elevators are owned by the big companies that don’t want to sell the corn bagged, or for the dealers that do sell it in 50# bags, they want $3.15 up to $3.85 per 50#! And when the market price is around $1.80 right now, that’s highway robbery! Luckily my dad called the local small-town elevator/dealer where he lives (an hour north of Columbus) and they are willing to sell 100# nylon bags for $2.18/bushel (56#). That’s a great price, so I’m buying two tons which should easily get me through the Winter and maybe even the Spring. ;o) I am working on taking photos of my setup, but haven’t finished installing the extra 3-bushel hopper extension I built. ;o) Once I finish it I’ll take some photos and reply to this thread with a link! If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. I’ve had the furnace for two weeks now and have had plenty of time and practice playing with the damper settings, draft fan speed settings, starting, feed rate, etc. Jacob

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congratulations, sounds it’s working for you. I’m trying to do the same with horse manure, but the winter up till now has been so mild that I haven’t stabled them yet, so no test runs with the real thing. Richard "McDonald, Jacob M."

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All, I just thought I’d chime in about my new corn furnace. I searched the usenet archives and web for a long time doing research on corn/pellet furnaces and finally decided to buy a Traeger furnace, the GBU70 (70 kBTU model), configured to burn corn and other biomass/grains. It’s great! I have a 2400 sqft house with average insulation and windows, built in 1990. I could definitely go for better insulation and windows in the new house! But this 70k unit still puts out enough heat to keep the house warm this Winter (was 1 F, -17 C last night), and at a fraction of the cost of natural gas! Woohoo! I installed the furnace as an auxiliary furnace and tied it into my existing Bryant gas furnace. I installed an automatic one-way damper onto the corn unit and just put a block of plywood in place of the air filter on the gas unit to act as a damper. I installed a switch that allows my wife to switch between the two furnaces without messing with wires from the thermostat in case she runs out of corn or has other issues with the corn furnace while I’m away on business. One thing I underestimated is how difficult it would be to procure corn in central Ohio! I’m surrounded by corn and soybean fields, yet all of the elevators are owned by the big companies that don’t want to sell the corn bagged, or for the dealers that do sell it in 50# bags, they want $3.15 up to $3.85 per 50#! And when the market price is around $1.80 right now, that’s highway robbery! Luckily my dad called the local small-town elevator/dealer where he lives (an hour north of Columbus) and they are willing to sell 100# nylon bags for $2.18/bushel (56#). That’s a great price, so I’m buying two tons which should easily get me through the Winter and maybe even the Spring. ;o) I am working on taking photos of my setup, but haven’t finished installing the extra 3-bushel hopper extension I built. ;o) Once I finish it I’ll take some photos and reply to this thread with a link! If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. I’ve had the furnace for two weeks now and have had plenty of time and practice playing with the damper settings, draft fan speed settings, starting, feed rate, etc. Jacob

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McDonald, Jacob M. all of the elevators are owned by the big companies that don’t want to sell the corn bagged, or for the dealers that do sell it in 50# bags, they want $3.15 up to $3.85 per 50#! And when the market price is around $1.80 right now, that’s highway robbery!

Some companies will have trailers for farmers to use. Maybe you could build yourself a mini-silo so store it. Luckily my dad called the local small-town elevator/dealer where he lives (an hour north of Columbus) and they are willing to sell 100# nylon bags for $2.18/bushel (56#). That’s a great price, so I’m buying two tons which should easily get me through the Winter and maybe even the Spring. ;o)

That’s actually pretty good opportunity to maintain a huge, inexpensive food stockpile for disaster insurance to get you through political chaos, nuclear war, etc. Just one terrorist nuke going off in a major city would cause the government to clamp down transportation and food prices would go sky high. The typical Morman/survivalist food stockpile strategy is to rotate your stockpile, as in "store what you eat and eat what you store", but this has you always eating old food. These stockpiles typically consist of mostly canned and processed foods which have a shelflife of 3 to 5 years. Some people have spent $3000 on a one year supply of food only to have the shelflife expire before it gets eaten, so to keep from making themselves sick eating nutritionally deficient foods they just dump it into the trash. OTOH dried grains like wheat and corn can still be edible for 15 years. And it doesn’t matter how old grain gets, it will still burn in your furnace. So you could have a huge food stockpile of grains that stayed fresh, yet never got eaten because your furnace rotated your stockpile by always burning the oldest grain. I wouldn’t volentarily eat a diet of 100% corn, but consider what kind of food you’d be happy to have when the alternative was starvation, and it wouldn’t stop you from finding more food during a crisis, times when the only thing that can buy food is other food, or save you big time when food prices go sky high during a major crisis. So at $2.18 per bushel, that’s using some extra storage space and a one time investment of maybe $100 to have a huge foodstockpile that stayed fresh forever, and your both investment and storage space can forever be refunded/reclaimed. No food stockpile ever stayed so fresh and was so cheap. Something to consider.

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"McDonald, Jacob M."

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi All, I just thought I’d chime in about my new corn furnace. I searched the usenet archives and web for a long time doing research on corn/pellet furnaces and finally decided to buy a Traeger furnace, the GBU70 (70 kBTU model), configured to burn corn and other biomass/grains. It’s great! I have a 2400 sqft house with average insulation and windows, built in 1990. I could definitely go for better insulation and windows in the new house! But this 70k unit still puts out enough heat to keep the house warm this Winter (was 1 F, -17 C last night), and at a fraction of the cost of natural gas! Woohoo! I installed the furnace as an auxiliary furnace and tied it into my existing Bryant gas furnace. I installed an automatic one-way damper onto the corn unit and just put a block of plywood in place of the air filter on the gas unit to act as a damper. I installed a switch that allows my wife to switch between the two furnaces without messing with wires from the thermostat in case she runs out of corn or has other issues with the corn furnace while I’m away on business. One thing I underestimated is how difficult it would be to procure corn in central Ohio! I’m surrounded by corn and soybean fields, yet all of the elevators are owned by the big companies that don’t want to sell the corn bagged, or for the dealers that do sell it in 50# bags, they want $3.15 up to $3.85 per 50#! And when the market price is around $1.80 right now, that’s highway robbery! Luckily my dad called the local small-town elevator/dealer where he lives (an hour north of Columbus) and they are willing to sell 100# nylon bags for $2.18/bushel (56#). That’s a great price, so I’m buying two tons which should easily get me through the Winter and maybe even the Spring. ;o) I am working on taking photos of my setup, but haven’t finished installing the extra 3-bushel hopper extension I built. ;o) Once I finish it I’ll take some photos and reply to this thread with a link! If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask. I’ve had the furnace for two weeks now and have had plenty of time and practice playing with the damper settings, draft fan speed settings, starting, feed rate, etc. Jacob

You gotta do what we do in the plastics industry, and get a vacuum system set up. On top of the molding machines we have these little tiny hoppers with a blower (sucker) and a proximity / level indicator switch. As the machine eats up the resin, the switch kicks the suction on, and sucks resin beads (just slightly smaller than corn) out of 3/4 ton boxes and up the tube and in to the hopper. What’s nice about that is you don’t need to have 1500 lbs of product way up on top of the machine to gravity feed. You just have a big pile or bin and throw the hose in it. Hell, you could even keep the bin outdoors. Andy

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"McDonald, Jacob M."  wrote Luckily my dad called the local small-town elevator/dealer where he lives (an hour north of Columbus) and they are willing to sell 100# nylon bags for $2.18/bushel (56#). That’s a great price, so I’m buying two tons which should easily get me through the Winter and maybe even the Spring. ;o)

Two tons of corn.  You might want to invest in a few cats too   My experience has been that females are the best hunters but then you may end up with two tons of cats!  How many BTU’s in a cat?  I don’t know what measures silo operators take for rodent control but I would definitely look into it. Regards, Tim O

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   Newsgroups: alt.energy.renewable,alt.energy.homepower    "McDonald, Jacob M."  wrote    Two tons of corn.  You might want to invest in a few cats too    My experience has been that females are the best hunters but then    you may end up with two tons of cats!  How many BTU’s in a cat?    Tim O Make that "BTU’s per hour".  Cats are heat generators, not fuel… I bet Nick knows. Tom Willmon near Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA Dishonest Person – One who farts & blames the dog. Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 – Registered

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How many BTU’s in a cat? Make that "BTU’s per hour".  Cats are heat generators, not fuel…

Could be… I bet Nick knows.

An ASHRAE-standard 6.61 pound normally active cat makes 68.02 Btu/h. Nick

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- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –    Newsgroups: alt.energy.renewable,alt.energy.homepower    "McDonald, Jacob M."  wrote    Two tons of corn.  You might want to invest in a few cats too    My experience has been that females are the best hunters but then    you may end up with two tons of cats!  How many BTU’s in a cat?    Tim O Make that "BTU’s per hour".  Cats are heat generators, not fuel… I bet Nick knows. Tom Willmon near Mountainair, (mid) New Mexico, USA Dishonest Person – One who farts & blames the dog. Net-Tamer V 1.12.0 – Registered

I think the Egyptians kept cats for pets and mummified them and if you believe Mark Twain. "The fuel [Egyptian railroaders] use for the locomotive is composed of mummies three thousand years old, purchased by the ton or by the graveyard for that purpose, and . . . sometimes one hears the profane engineer call out pettishly, ‘D–n these plebeians, they don’t burn worth a cent–pass out a King!’" "Stated to me for a fact. I only tell it as I got it. I am willing to believe it. I can believe anything." Andre’ B.

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How many BTU’s in a cat? Make that "BTU’s per hour".  Cats are heat generators, not fuel… Could be… I bet Nick knows. An ASHRAE-standard 6.61 pound normally active cat makes 68.02 Btu/h. Nick

Ordinary cats around 20 watts basal. Canadian cats may be different.

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In case I am not around for a few days, the company I bought Foreign Auto Computer 1-800-241-6689 They may be able to test yours. But again check everything else first. $200 is a lot of money if it doesn’t cure the problem. Terry

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So we replaced the starter, Car started, ran out of gas during test, didn’t think to check gas as it sat there for 2 months! …Grandpa is so proud to work on this with me…

If you store your car a lot with a low fuel level in it, more condensation will get in there. If you have spark and injection points on the meter then ECU is fine. Changing the battery shouldn’t blow the fuse. It’s probably a pick up problem when the tank gets low. Wear your goggles, starter fluid is useful but dangerous on throttle body.

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Thanks guys for all your advice I really appreciate it! We are gonna wait till after christmas to look at it again! Thanks again

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PS.  The ECU is usually in the passenger kick panel.

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There is a fuse that prevents any unacceptable voltage from going to the ECU.  Its an 80 amp fuse under the hood. I blew mine when I was screwing around with my alternator. But nothing at all happened when I turned the key, as no power was going anywhere. t

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I think your ECM has 4 LEDs that light up to display problems. From 1988 until after 1991, Civics have the ECM under the

carpet up against the firewall on the passenger side. 4 10mm hold it on. There is a plastic window so you can see the LED. It is plenty bright, but in direct sunshine it may be hard to see. When you turn the ignition on, the LED should light up for a second or so. IF it doesn’t light up, then the ECM is either bad, or it is getting no power. If it flashes after the initial pulse, then you have something else wrong. You realy need a manual to even strt debugging this. If you post the number of flashes, and you can had more then one set of flashes. I will tell you what my books say it COULD be. Think simple. Most problems are not complex, they just apear that way. When I worked on a 1990 Civic the ECM showed three errors, after I replaced a bunch of defective parts. Repair of an ECM is not a real option, evn for a skilled tech. I got it "working", but it still shows an AT lock up error(19 flashes). In a MT Civic. As Honda has very robust ECMs I doubt that is the problem. My friends ECM had been wet, very wet. The corrosion ate away some of the leads for the various electronic parts. While Honda ECMs do fail, it takes a lot to kill them.  Cehck your fuses. ALL of them. Under the dash and under the hood. Disconnect the battery, and remove the 4 nuts that hold the cover and disconnect the ECM, install and remove the connector several times to clean them. A rebuilt ECM will run you around $200. I don;t have the name and adress of the company we dealt with, but I will dig it out. Avoid AutoZone, Advanced, and NAPA. A lot more expensive, with a worse warrenty. I wold do a net search on Civic PRM-FI relays. They fail most often in the heat of summer, but can die anytime. Do another search for Civic Ignitors (or Igniters). They can fail at anytime and will stop you dead in your tracks. Again, think simple, check the fuses, does the car crank OK, is the battery pretty strong? Cehck your spark plugs, a coworker had her Accord die at work, Cranked but no go. Pulled the plugs and they were all fouled with carbon. The car had 100K and she didn’t know when the plugs had been changed. We cleaned the plugs and the car ran a little rough, but she was able to get past Advanced Auto and get new plugs. We installed them over lunch the next day and her car ran GREAT. She is convinced that we are all very good mechanics. To check for spark I advise the use of a 8$ tool from advanced auto with a calibrated arc gap. Great little tool. A system may produce enough spark on a plug outside the engine, and not have enough juice to work under compression. Terry

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So we replaced the starter, Car started, ran out of gas during test, didn’t think to check gas as it sat there for 2 months! We decided to fill up with gas and take the new "used" starter out to clean it up, put it back in, CAR won’t fire???? Checked Spark- good Checked fuel pump- good Checked Fuel injection points- they read accurately on the meter- good It turns over-good Fires- not good We think we might have blown the ecu when we reinstalled the battery! Is this possible? Would this be a symptom? Wouldn’t there be other symptoms? Would I notice the others if the car won’t start? How do I find the ecu? Read other posts but all I got was that it might be on passenger under carpet, might be on driver! I don’t really want to rip up the carpet to find this damn thing. Or is it under the seats? Is it in a box, what am I looking for? Any help would be great, Grandpa is so proud to work on this with me, but alas his knowledge is limited and so is mine! Thanks

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Hi Michael I am not sure if you’d want to start looking at the ECU. It could be ‘it’ but perhaps look at some other things first. If you have spark and gas, the ECU is most likely ok. In my (perhaps limited) Honda experience, it seems that Hondas are hard to start after they’ve had a problem for some reason. Some other people say this is not needed, but I’ve had good experience getting a car started by spraying five seconds of ether in the air intake before starting it — take the intake hose off and spray it right in. Perhaps just try that first to see if it coughs back to life. Since you ran out of gas, maybe you sucked some gas tank sludge into the injectors or carb. Get some gas system cleaner (not dry gas, but the stuff that proports to clean your injectors/carb) and follow directions as to how much to fill the car up. Some cleaners work best on a near empty tank. It could also be that, while you took the starter out, you yanked a wire loose. On our integra, there are several quick disconnect bundle connectors that are right above the starter — one does go to the distributor. I’d check those connectors and spray some contact cleaner (Radio Shack) in them — can’t hurt. Perhaps you are getting gas, but the pressure is wrong. I don’t quite get how that would happen after running out of gas but could happen at any time, so perhaps is just a coincidence that it happened when it did. In that case, it could be your fuel pressure regulator. I am sure other people here will have a several more good suggestions for you to try. Regards, Remco

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