Posts belonging to Category 'Carrier Furnace Filter'

carrier Furnace help

Question:

Thanks for the help. What I was saying is I know how electronics. The last time I paid someone to come out they looked at it twice and said they fixed it both times.. Finally I got fed up and found a bad solder joint on the board and it was working again in 30 minutes..   Mine must be older because I have no LED’s.  I took the exhaust fan out today and blew it out with air and it seems to be working better so far. I will watch and see if it acts up again. I did check the gas valve and although I wasn’t sure what voltage I should be seeing it was dropping and back up as the valve clicked so I am fairly sure it isn’t the valve.. Mark

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Being an engineer means nothing when it comes to this… just so you know… If you dont know what you are messing with, and its obvious that you dont, you might want to pay someone to look at it, since if thats the Carrier board that I think it is, its been updated, and Joe Homeowner can not buy it. Totaline dealers are the only place contractors can get one. But…if you are up to the task, do the following: Check the draft inducer, see that its running for a good 15 to 30 seconds before HSI lights. If the HSI will not light, then check for open rollout switch, or draft switch that is bad. positive draft will cause the switch to close, and if the line to the switch is kinked, or leaking, it will cause the switch to stay open. If it tests open, with the fan running, the switch is either bad, or you have a flue that is clogged, with a nest, or other blockage. If all tests ok, then you need to check for 24VAC to the valve, and if its been retro fitted with a smart kit, you will need the smartvalve tester to check it. IF, you have voltage to the valve, check the obvious, for gas…are the lines open? if so, then you have a bad valve, or board, or combination of the two. Carrier has updated several of the old boards, and the new board is much better and has a set of LED’s to show the trouble codes when and if tripped. the inducer is not really checking for clean flue…but inshot burners need a way to remove the exhaust…thats what it is for….. — www.carolinabreezehvac.com www.ebaystores.com/id=19893971   I have a carrier model  397haw048120..When it tries to light the gas valve clicks. I don’t know what the voltage should be but if I use my volt meter I can see the voltage go up and then drop so I think  what ever sends the voltage to the valve is the problem. Earlier this year when it would light I would hear a high pitch whining noise but that did go away. It would come from the top where the vent fan and some sort of vacuum valve is installed?? Not really sure what that odes but guessing it looks for a clean exhaust before lighting the furnace. there is also a small circuit board under this vacuum valve. Thanks in advance for any help. I am an engineer so I can check stuff. Mark

Response:

Thanks for the help. What I was saying is I know how electronics. The last time I paid someone to come out they looked at it twice and said they fixed it both times.. Finally I got fed up and found a bad solder joint on the board and it was working again in 30 minutes..  Mine must be older because I have no LED’s.  I took the exhaust fan out today and blew it out with air and it seems to be working better so far. I will watch and see if it acts up again. I did check the gas valve and although I wasn’t sure what voltage I should be seeing it was dropping and back up as the valve clicked so I am fairly sure it isn’t the valve..

You should have 24 volts AC at the valve.  Even if you’re getting the 24 volts on/off it can still be the valve if it’s drawing too much current. Another thing that causes that exact same problem is a little circuit board at the inducer motor.  They were never that great  from the factory.  There’s a new replacment that requires some rewiring. If your furnace has the main control board in the blower compartment with the edge card sticking up thru the bottom of the control compartment, pull that white connector off and check the terminals. Often these get corroded or burnt. Does this furnace of yours have a hot surface ignitor that lights the main burners or do you have a spark ignition with a pilot burner along with a yellow, white and green wires coming off of it? George SMWIA Local 20 – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Mark Being an engineer means nothing when it comes to this… just so you know… If you dont know what you are messing with, and its obvious that you dont, you might want to pay someone to look at it, since if thats the Carrier board that I think it is, its been updated, and Joe Homeowner can not buy it. Totaline dealers are the only place contractors can get one. But…if you are up to the task, do the following: Check the draft inducer, see that its running for a good 15 to 30 seconds before HSI lights. If the HSI will not light, then check for open rollout switch, or draft switch that is bad. positive draft will cause the switch to close, and if the line to the switch is kinked, or leaking, it will cause the switch to stay open. If it tests open, with the fan running, the switch is either bad, or you have a flue that is clogged, with a nest, or other blockage. If all tests ok, then you need to check for 24VAC to the valve, and if its been retro fitted with a smart kit, you will need the smartvalve tester to check it. IF, you have voltage to the valve, check the obvious, for gas…are the lines open? if so, then you have a bad valve, or board, or combination of the two. Carrier has updated several of the old boards, and the new board is much better and has a set of LED’s to show the trouble codes when and if tripped. the inducer is not really checking for clean flue…but inshot burners need a way to remove the exhaust…thats what it is for….. — www.carolinabreezehvac.com www.ebaystores.com/id=19893971   I have a carrier model  397haw048120..When it tries to light the gas valve clicks. I don’t know what the voltage should be but if I use my volt meter I can see the voltage go up and then drop so I think  what ever sends the voltage to the valve is the problem. Earlier this year when it would light I would hear a high pitch whining noise but that did go away. It would come from the top where the vent fan and some sort of vacuum valve is installed?? Not really sure what that odes but guessing it looks for a clean exhaust before lighting the furnace. there is also a small circuit board under this vacuum valve. Thanks in advance for any help. I am an engineer so I can check stuff. Mark

Response:

  I have a carrier model  397haw048120..When it tries to light the gas valve clicks. I don’t know what the voltage should be but if I use my volt meter I can see the voltage go up and then drop so I think  what ever sends the voltage to the valve is the problem. Earlier this year when it would light I would hear a high pitch whining noise but that did go away. It would come from the top where the vent fan and some sort of vacuum valve is installed?? Not really sure what that odes but guessing it looks for a clean exhaust before lighting the furnace. there is also a small circuit board under this vacuum valve. Thanks in advance for any help. I am an engineer so I can check stuff. Mark

Response:

Being an engineer means nothing when it comes to this… just so you know… If you dont know what you are messing with, and its obvious that you dont, you might want to pay someone to look at it, since if thats the Carrier board that I think it is, its been updated, and Joe Homeowner can not buy it. Totaline dealers are the only place contractors can get one. But…if you are up to the task, do the following: Check the draft inducer, see that its running for a good 15 to 30 seconds before HSI lights. If the HSI will not light, then check for open rollout switch, or draft switch that is bad. positive draft will cause the switch to close, and if the line to the switch is kinked, or leaking, it will cause the switch to stay open. If it tests open, with the fan running, the switch is either bad, or you have a flue that is clogged, with a nest, or other blockage. If all tests ok, then you need to check for 24VAC to the valve, and if its been retro fitted with a smart kit, you will need the smartvalve tester to check it. IF, you have voltage to the valve, check the obvious, for gas…are the lines open? if so, then you have a bad valve, or board, or combination of the two. Carrier has updated several of the old boards, and the new board is much better and has a set of LED’s to show the trouble codes when and if tripped. the inducer is not really checking for clean flue…but inshot burners need a way to remove the exhaust…thats what it is for….. — www.carolinabreezehvac.com www.ebaystores.com/id=19893971

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –   I have a carrier model  397haw048120..When it tries to light the gas valve clicks. I don’t know what the voltage should be but if I use my volt meter I can see the voltage go up and then drop so I think  what ever sends the voltage to the valve is the problem. Earlier this year when it would light I would hear a high pitch whining noise but that did go away. It would come from the top where the vent fan and some sort of vacuum valve is installed?? Not really sure what that odes but guessing it looks for a clean exhaust before lighting the furnace. there is also a small circuit board under this vacuum valve. Thanks in advance for any help. I am an engineer so I can check stuff. Mark

Response:

what to include in a furnace replace. quote

Question:

… What about zoning the system (esp. in North-South facing homes)? My 20 year old home is N-S. What does it mean to zone an existing home?

Basically you have  "valves" in the heating ducts that can be opened or closed, even electronically to balance the temp. differences from one side to the other.  Useful when North is cold in winter and south side is too hot in summer. Info at:  http://www.smarthome.com/hvacsave.html Btw, I live in cold Ontario Canada!

A fellow Canuck…<G Tom             Need info on COTTAGES and CABINS?                http://www.cottageliving.com

Response:

Dear Group, I am soon to replace my 20 year old Carrier furnace. I am having two companies give quotes in the next two weeks. I am planning to select a Hi-Eff plus an air cleaner. To make the most of these quotes I am hoping you can let me know what things I should ask about in terms of the installation? Thanks for your advice, Doug

Response:

Dear Group, I am soon to replace my 20 year old Carrier furnace. I am having two companies give quotes in the next two weeks. I am planning to select a Hi-Eff plus an air cleaner. To make the most of these quotes I am hoping you can let me know what things I should ask about in terms of the installation?

Have you considered a humidifier?  What about AC?  (For the latter, you might just want to run the lines and install the AC later).  What about zoning the system (esp. in North-South facing homes)?  And get them to seal (silver metal tape, not duct tape!) all the  ducting joints. Tom             Need info on COTTAGES and CABINS?                http://www.cottageliving.com

Response:

—– Original Message —– Dear Group, I am soon to replace my 20 year old Carrier furnace. I am having two companies give quotes in the next two weeks. I am planning to select a Hi-Eff plus an air cleaner. To make the most of these quotes I am hoping you can let me know what things I should ask about in terms of the installation? Have you considered a humidifier?  What about AC?  (For the

Thanks for the reply. There is an acceptable  humidifier and AC with the current furnace. I plan to keep them. What about zoning the system (esp. in North-South facing homes)?

My 20 year old home is N-S. What does it mean to zone an existing home? Btw, I live in cold Ontario Canada! Thanks again, Doug

Response:

Furnace question

Question:

Watch the unit as someone turns up the thermostat.  When the thermostat is initially turned on the burner should light within two seconds or so.  The fan won’t run initially but should start within 1-3 minutes after the burner comes on.  Normally, then, the unit will run until the thermostat is "satisfied" then the gas will cut off and the burner will go out.  The fan will remain running for another 1-3 mintues. If you see the burner turning off and on while the thermostat is calling for heat and the fan is running then it’s because the unit believes it is overheating.  It could really be overheating (due to a plugged filter, slipping fan belt, too many registers blocked, etc) or it could be mistaken.  If it is "mistaken" it usually means the that the "fan/limit switch" is misadjusted or defective. The fan/limit switch is usually found behind the upper service panel. It’s a metal box maybe 5×3x2.  Inside is a dial with three setting pointers on it.  Remove the cover, and check the setting of the highest pointer.  It should be set to about 180 degrees F.  If it is set much lower than that it could cause the burner to cut out like you see. Note:  If you attempt to adjust the pointers, hold the dial with one hand while moving the pointer with the other.  If you don’t hold the dial you may damage the unit. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – it has a standing pilot and a NEW filter. I have a Sears gas furnace, maybe 15-18 years old. I noticed that since I’ve turned the heat back on that sometimes the furnace will start, the fan will run, but the burners don’t always light. I’ve listened to it when this happens and I can hear the gas valve click. At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off. Should the burner cycle like this or should it be constantly on whenever the fan runs? Does your furnace have a "standing pilot" light that is lit all the time?  If so, then probably you just have a clogged air filter.  If it has an electric ignition of some sort then there may be a problem with that.

Response:

I have a Sears gas furnace, maybe 15-18 years old. I noticed that since I’ve turned the heat back on that sometimes the furnace will start, the fan will run, but the burners don’t always light. I’ve listened to it when this happens and I can hear the gas valve click. At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off. Should the burner cycle like this or should it be constantly on whenever the fan runs?

Response:

Begin Quote  At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off End Quote     How long does it stay one and how long again before it comes back on? — Dia ’s Muire duit Joe M

Response:

Well it just kicked on and after 10 minutes the burner hadn’t come on, so I turned the thermostat up 1 degree and it lit. Ran a couple of minutes, went off for about five, relit and stayed on for 20 minutes. The times that it’s not igniting (but the fan is running) I can hear the valve click every so often. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Begin Quote  At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off End Quote     How long does it stay one and how long again before it comes back on? — Dia ’s Muire duit Joe M

Response:

it has a standing pilot and a NEW filter. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a Sears gas furnace, maybe 15-18 years old. I noticed that since I’ve turned the heat back on that sometimes the furnace will start, the fan will run, but the burners don’t always light. I’ve listened to it when this happens and I can hear the gas valve click. At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off. Should the burner cycle like this or should it be constantly on whenever the fan runs? Does your furnace have a "standing pilot" light that is lit all the time?  If so, then probably you just have a clogged air filter.  If it has an electric ignition of some sort then there may be a problem with that.

Response:

I have a Sears gas furnace, maybe 15-18 years old. I noticed that since I’ve turned the heat back on that sometimes the furnace will start, the fan will run, but the burners don’t always light. I’ve listened to it when this happens and I can hear the gas valve click. At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off. Should the burner cycle like this or should it be constantly on whenever the fan runs?

Does your furnace have a "standing pilot" light that is lit all the time?  If so, then probably you just have a clogged air filter.  If it has an electric ignition of some sort then there may be a problem with that.

Response:

This may not apply seeing as you have a pilot light – but here goes anyway. With my non-pilot light Carrier furnace there is a thin metal – for lack of a better word – thermocouple or sense rod that is in the path of the flame from one of the burners.  This metal picks up the heat from the flame – so if it is not hot – the gas turns off.  From time to time this metal gets dirty with dust, etc. – and the furnace cycles – gas on for a few seconds, gas off, wait 2 minutes, repeat burn cycle.  The solution is to lightly sand the metal to clean it off. Maybe see if your furnace has one of these metal rods – although with a pilot light setup- the thermocouple is usually part of the pilot light assembly so you may not have one. — a

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – it has a standing pilot and a NEW filter. I have a Sears gas furnace, maybe 15-18 years old. I noticed that since I’ve turned the heat back on that sometimes the furnace will start, the fan will run, but the burners don’t always light. I’ve listened to it when this happens and I can hear the gas valve click. At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off. Should the burner cycle like this or should it be constantly on whenever the fan runs? Does your furnace have a "standing pilot" light that is lit all the time?  If so, then probably you just have a clogged air filter.  If it has an electric ignition of some sort then there may be a problem with that.

Response:

When we had an old furnace, we had the same thing happening. Burner would come on, run for a while, cut off for a while. It was working correctly, with the overtemperature cutout turning it off as the blower tried to remove enough heat from the exchanger so that the temp would get lower enough, for the regulator to kick back on. I would have preferred to have a small burner, and very large exchanger, so as to stabilize the cycling. But it did improve when I replaced the rather smallish duct pipes with a duct system over three times larger. You may have a restriction to flow in your ductwork, or several of your room vents being partially or fully closed. Or, considering that it’s a Sears furnace,…well, never mind. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – it has a standing pilot and a NEW filter. I have a Sears gas furnace, maybe 15-18 years old. I noticed that since I’ve turned the heat back on that sometimes the furnace will start, the fan will run, but the burners don’t always light. I’ve listened to it when this happens and I can hear the gas valve click. At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off. Should the burner cycle like this or should it be constantly on whenever the fan runs? Does your furnace have a "standing pilot" light that is lit all the time?  If so, then probably you just have a clogged air filter.  If it has an electric ignition of some sort then there may be a problem with that.

Before you buy.

Response:

I have the same type of thermocouple and I had the same problem. The surface was oxidized, and the gas would cycle on and off with the burner never lighting. Sanding it lightly with emery paper fixed the problem. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – This may not apply seeing as you have a pilot light – but here goes anyway. With my non-pilot light Carrier furnace there is a thin metal – for lack of a better word – thermocouple or sense rod that is in the path of the flame from one of the burners.  This metal picks up the heat from the flame – so if it is not hot – the gas turns off.  From time to time this metal gets dirty with dust, etc. – and the furnace cycles – gas on for a few seconds, gas off, wait 2 minutes, repeat burn cycle.  The solution is to lightly sand the metal to clean it off. Maybe see if your furnace has one of these metal rods – although with a pilot light setup- the thermocouple is usually part of the pilot light assembly so you may not have one. — a it has a standing pilot and a NEW filter. I have a Sears gas furnace, maybe 15-18 years old. I noticed that since I’ve turned the heat back on that sometimes the furnace will start, the fan will run, but the burners don’t always light. I’ve listened to it when this happens and I can hear the gas valve click. At this point it will light and run for awhile, but then it clicks again and the burner goes off. Should the burner cycle like this or should it be constantly on whenever the fan runs? Does your furnace have a "standing pilot" light that is lit all the time?  If so, then probably you just have a clogged air filter. If it has an electric ignition of some sort then there may be a problem with that.

Before you buy.

Response:

  And remember that your thermostat probably has a Fan On/Auto switch, too, and if that switch is in the On position instead of the Off (or Automatic) position, the fan will blow hot *and* cold air as the heat comes on *and* off.  –Phil – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – Hi, My furnance seems to be working alright, meaning the house stays heated. However my question is, why does my heater sometimes blow out cool air? This seems to happen in a regular cycle… heated air – cool air– heated air…etc. It seems to me this isn’t a very efficient way of heating up the house. Thanks! There is a thermal switch inside the furnace (called the Fan-Limit switch) which controls when the blower runs.  If the cutoff temperature setting is too low, the switch will tell the blower to run again *after* the normal cycle is completed.  This time though, the furnace has already cooled off, thus the colder air. On most furnaces, the settings can be adjusted via little levers for the Cut Off and Cut On points.  Move the Cut Off lever up just a bit. Jim

–   Phil Munro                      Dept of Electrical & Computer Engin                                               Youngstown, Ohio  44555

Response:

Hi Jack Caine, hope you are having a nice day 09-Feb-01 02:27:39, Jack Caine wrote to All  JC Hi,  JC My furnance seems to be working alright, meaning the house stays  JC heated. However my question is, why does my heater sometimes blow out  JC cool air? This seems to happen in a regular cycle… heated  JC air – cool air- heated air…etc. It seems to me this isn’t a  JC very efficient way of heating up the house. I don’t know which type of furnace you have but it could be a sticking fan and limit switch causing the fan to run too long. .. "After they make styrofoam, what do they ship it in?" – s.w.               ___ TagDude 0.92

Furnace – Frame goes off and on.

Question:

- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – My house has installed a late 80s Carrier furnace. It doesn’t have pilot on all the time. It starts a bit different.  In perfect case, the furnace should run as following. 1) It starts with electronic ignitor making sparks to start pilot. 2) Pilot lights for about 15 seconds. 3) Gas blows in and frame is light up by the pilot. 4) After frame flows about 30 seconds, the fan kicks in. 5) Heat keeps coming until limitor kicks in. 6) Frame is off and the fan keep running for a minute to cool down the system. However, on step 4, the frame keeps go off and on even before and after the fan running.  When frame goes off, I can heard the gas valve makes some clicking and the frame goes on again. Service guy had came changed main circuit board and cutoff limitor.  But same thing still happened.  Is that mean I should ask service guy just change the gas valve next?

By frame do you mean main burners? I would suspect either a dirty pilot, gas pressure problems or a failing warp bar in the pilot assembly. I would suspect bad gas valve last. — HVAC Advice, Pictures, Links… http://www.geocities.com/~johnmills http://www.appelheat.com alt.hvac Charter, FAQ, Links… http://home.att.net/~alt.hvac/

Response:

My house has installed a late 80s Carrier furnace. It doesn’t have pilot on all the time. It starts a bit different.  In perfect case, the furnace should run as following. 1) It starts with electronic ignitor making sparks to start pilot. 2) Pilot lights for about 15 seconds. 3) Gas blows in and frame is light up by the pilot. 4) After frame flows about 30 seconds, the fan kicks in. 5) Heat keeps coming until limitor kicks in. 6) Frame is off and the fan keep running for a minute to cool down the system. However, on step 4, the frame keeps go off and on even before and after the fan running.  When frame goes off, I can heard the gas valve makes some clicking and the frame goes on again. Service guy had came changed main circuit board and cutoff limitor.  But same thing still happened.  Is that mean I should ask service guy just change the gas valve next? Before you buy.

Response:

Gas furnace recommendations

Question:

Our oil furnace is 50 years old and we will probably replace it in the next couple of years.  I have searched the internet for different gas burning furnaces, but I dont know which brands are good and which are less durable (or breakdown more often).  Every contractor suggests a different brand (Sears, Utica, Lennox).  The efficiency rating of these is comparable (about 80-82%). 1) What are the better Gas and Oil burning steam furnaces? 2) Any reason to stay with oil rather than switch to gas?  [we have a gas water heater 4 feet from the boiler, and we would time the replacement so there is little oil left in our outdoor 1000 gallon oil tank- which is also probably 50-70 years old] 3) the contractors have mentioned that neoprene seals are less desirable than metal push pin seals.  What other features are important?  The house is 1800 square feet.

Response:

Why are you replacing the whole thing? You can get a replacement hi-efficiency oil burner installed and keep the rest of your furnace as it is probably high quality cast iron, something that most of today’s cheaply built furnaces dont have. My oil-fired hot air exchanger is 40 years old and my contractor recommended not replacing it along with a new A/C unit. The burner itself is reasonably new, though. — Richard I also hate to receive spam, so please discard the "stop" to email me

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -Our oil furnace is 50 years old and we will probably replace it in the next couple of years.  I have searched the internet for different gas burning furnaces, but I dont know which brands are good and which are less durable (or breakdown more often).  Every contractor suggests a different brand (Sears, Utica, Lennox).  The efficiency rating of these is comparable (about 80-82%). 1) What are the better Gas and Oil burning steam furnaces? 2) Any reason to stay with oil rather than switch to gas?  [we have a gas water heater 4 feet from the boiler, and we would time the replacement so there is little oil left in our outdoor 1000 gallon oil tank- which is also probably 50-70 years old] 3) the contractors have mentioned that neoprene seals are less desirable than metal push pin seals.  What other features are important?  The house is 1800 square feet.

Response:

I need a new gas furnace.  I’ve gotten a variety of bids ranging from $1250 for a Bryant to $2060 for a Lennox.  All are 80% efficient and have a 20 year limited warranty on the heat exchanger.  Parts warranties range from 1 to 5 years.  I’m having trouble deciding what to get.  I’ve heard Lennox is "top of the line" but if Bryant is almost as good I’d just soon save the $800.  Does anyone have any opinions about furnace brands?  Thanks a lot. Walter Alvey

Response:

I need a new gas furnace.  I’ve gotten a variety of bids ranging from $1250 for a Bryant to $2060 for a Lennox. [...] I’ve heard Lennox is "top of the line" but if Bryant is almost as good I’d just soon save the $800.  Does anyone have any opinions about furnace brands?  Thanks a lot. Walter Alvey

I bought a rental double that has two Lennox furnaces in it.  On Friday, January 1, 1999 I got a call from the tenant on one side.  No heat! No problem I stopped by.  It was nothing I could fix, so off to call my furnace man.  Sorry!  He can’t do Lennox furnaces, because he can’t get parts.  Call a Lennox Service place. Call Lennox place.  Canned message on phone.  "If you are not on a Service Contract with us, or didn’t purchase your Lennox furnace from us in the last 2 years, then we cannot help you." Call another.  Same thing.  Next one.  ’Sorry, too busy handling our "regular" customers.’ As it turned out, I couldn’t get help for about 5 days.  What alarmed me was that all of the Lennox Service places were filled to capacity servicing only those furnaces that were installed in the last 2 years (what new furnace needs fixed within two years?  Not one that I want to own), or helping people on Service Contracts.  I thought the whole purpose of a Service Contract was to reduce the need for emergency work, because the furnace was properly cared for.  Apparently it doesn’t make a difference if there were that many calls on the first real cold day of the 98-99 winter season. Lesson I learned.  Stay away from Lennox (unless you replace your furnace every 2 years (even then, go for a cheaper one :-) ), or want to pay $10 per month on a service contract (which, BTW, $10 per month is $120 per year.  I haven’t known a neglected furnace that didn’t last 15 years.  $120 * 15 = $1,800 or enough to pay for a new one after 15 years, not to mention the interest earned on the saved $10 per month investment.  And since it will last another 5 years, with only minor maintenance ($300), you got your new furnace paid for by saving the contract fee, whereas if you were on the contract, the contracting company would now be hounding you to purchase another furnace since this one is 20 years old). No Lennox for me!  I like service when I need it. Russ

Response:

I have a 50 year old house with the same furnace that the squirrel cage blower seized it’s bearings.  I figured I might as well replace the furnace now as it was something I planned to do anyway. The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night. Thanks

Response:

All of us installers have our favourites and dislikes of products. Since the price of fuel can only go up, try to get a high efficiency model in the 90+% range. You’ll want a furnace that parts are easy to get, fast and locally. If your contractor will stand behind you on service at 3 in the cold morning, then go with him. Brand names are more money as they have to advertise. The furnaces are pretty similar. Dave

|I have a 50 year old house with the same furnace that the squirrel |cage blower seized it’s bearings.  I figured I might as well replace |the furnace now as it was something I planned to do anyway. | |The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox |and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. |He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know |if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the |others. | |I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have |replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to |figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is |Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night.

Response:

Snip he is pulling a fast one

Any equipment is only as good as the installation. Goodmans rep is below that of the other two. Perhaps they stopped selling to him, rather than he stopped buying from them…. —         BBB Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die.

Response:

The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore.

Maybe his profit margin is higher on Janitrol.

Response:

All of us installers have our favourites and dislikes of products. Since the price of fuel can only go up, try to get a high efficiency model in the 90+% range. You’ll want a furnace that parts are easy to get, fast and locally. If your contractor will stand behind you on service at 3 in the cold morning, then go with him. Brand names are more money as they have to advertise. The furnaces are pretty similar.

Good points. In regard to the east to get parts, unless to live in a large metro area I would stay away from Lennox.   There do things a "little different" so that, for example, parts that a generic in most systems have to be ordered from Lennox. In my case, the installer for his own reasons decided to stop handling Lennox products.   Lennox cut him off and I have been waiting for a new Lennox motor for the air handler for over a YEAR.  (The old one was made to work by borrowing an end plate from the bone yard.) Obviously, if it came down to no heat we would rewire or do whatever it took to use a non Lennox part BUT… IOW:   Stay away from LENNOX!

Response:

The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others.

Janitrol is the Yugo (or maybe Kia) of heating. Very low priced and I wouldn’t say overly reliable either. Some swear by them but most swear at them. I don’t think Carrier is that reliable either, trouble with the control boards they make themselves. I don’t see enough Lennox anymore to know how they are doing but they use the White-Rodgers Intellignition boards which are reliable so should see little problems. I would certainly get at least 1 more bid. — HVAC Advice, Pictures, Links… http://www.geocities.com/~johnmills http://www.appelheat.com alt.hvac Charter, FAQ, Links… http://home.att.net/~alt.hvac/

Response:

I have been looking at Goodman (Janitrol by another name), and it seems that no one agrees.   Anyone you talk to seems to say that their product is the best.  Sounds good, but I haven’t had the Nissan people recommend a Toyota to me either. Does proper installation and maintenance make a difference?  Some say yes, some say no. There is a consumer reports article referenced in the 2001 buying guide, but my magazines are in storage along with all my stuff.  However, you may be able to get a reprint from CR.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. Janitrol is the Yugo (or maybe Kia) of heating. Very low priced and I wouldn’t say overly reliable either. Some swear by them but most swear at them. I don’t think Carrier is that reliable either, trouble with the control boards they make themselves. I don’t see enough Lennox anymore to know how they are doing but they use the White-Rodgers Intellignition boards which are reliable so should see little problems. I would certainly get at least 1 more bid. — HVAC Advice, Pictures, Links… http://www.geocities.com/~johnmills http://www.appelheat.com alt.hvac Charter, FAQ, Links… http://home.att.net/~alt.hvac/

Response:

The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol

I have a Lennox A/C installed 6 yrs ago never broke down once for me ,its rigged up to a 28 yr old G.E furnace now known as the Trane. company.Just try not to buy anything with any bells and whistles,just the basic 80 percent. "When sparks fly,robots die "

Response:

The price seems too high to me.  My furnace went out five years ago when the house was covered by a warranty and it was replaced with a 100k (I think) furnace.  Since the house warranty was up for renewal, I asked the installer how much it would have cost me, he indicated about $600 to $700.  That has been about five years and I am sure there are any number of variables, but $2k seems high for a drop-in replacement.  I have no complaints about the furnace – it works and it is quieter than the original.  On the other hand, I would suggest you price a new blower and weigh the benefits of replacing the entire furnace.  If it is more than a simple drop-in replacement, get several bids and ask them lots of questions about what they will do and get it all in writing. Walter Barnett – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 50 year old house with the same furnace that the squirrel cage blower seized it’s bearings.  I figured I might as well replace the furnace now as it was something I planned to do anyway. The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night. Thanks

Response:

That price seems a bit high to me.   Two years ago at my previous house I had an old oil furnace and tank removed and a Carrier furnace installed for about $1350. I guess if you have a big house it could be more money, but My house was a 4 bedroom home.  I would get a couple of estimates, before you decide.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 50 year old house with the same furnace that the squirrel cage blower seized it’s bearings.  I figured I might as well replace the furnace now as it was something I planned to do anyway. The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night. Thanks

Response:

I live in Canada, and recently choose a Lennox. I’m quite happy with it, but Trane’s are also just as reliable. Have no idea about Janitrol. I would personally stay away from the high efficiency models. They can be troublesome and expensive to maintain. I have a few friends with them, and they curse their units to no end. Bruce – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night. Thanks

Response:

goodman is janitrol. years ago janitrol was a good product, then  Mr ron goodman bought janitrol , and now you can buy a janitrol , or a goodman both made by the same company in houston texas, my experience with goodman or the "new" janitrol has not been good, the goodman gmp series furnaces are noisy and problematic and i cant begin to recall how many of their condensers i have had to recharge repeatedly because the coils had microscopic leaks which i could not find,but the company would not replace the coils because i couldnt find the leaks, although i knew the coil was leaking due to an isolation and pressure test the other issue with goodman-janitrol, trane, lennox and carrier is that they use a lot of proprietary parts meaning basically that you will have to go through one of their dealers to get replacement parts. this is why i personally recommend , service, sell and install "Comfortmaker" a member of the Icp family they make  Heil, arcoaire, comfortmaker, tempstar, kenmore they are all the same furnace , just different names and use readily available honeywell controls where do you live? if you live in central illinois, perhaps you would entertain a bid from me? stay away from Goodman, just my 2 cents i am under the impression that because they are located in houston that they may be using untrained south of the border labor to keep cost’s down and subseqeuntly lessening the quality good luck rich – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. Janitrol is the Yugo (or maybe Kia) of heating. Very low priced and I wouldn’t say overly reliable either. Some swear by them but most swear at them. I don’t think Carrier is that reliable either, trouble with the control boards they make themselves. I don’t see enough Lennox anymore to know how they are doing but they use the White-Rodgers Intellignition boards which are reliable so should see little problems. I would certainly get at least 1 more bid. — HVAC Advice, Pictures, Links… http://www.geocities.com/~johnmills http://www.appelheat.com alt.hvac Charter, FAQ, Links… http://home.att.net/~alt.hvac/

Response:

I have a 50 year old house with the same furnace that the squirrel cage blower seized it’s bearings.  I figured I might as well replace the furnace now as it was something I planned to do anyway. The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night. Thanks

Response:

All of us installers have our favourites and dislikes of products. Since the price of fuel can only go up, try to get a high efficiency model in the 90+% range. You’ll want a furnace that parts are easy to get, fast and locally. If your contractor will stand behind you on service at 3 in the cold morning, then go with him. Brand names are more money as they have to advertise. The furnaces are pretty similar. Dave

|I have a 50 year old house with the same furnace that the squirrel |cage blower seized it’s bearings.  I figured I might as well replace |the furnace now as it was something I planned to do anyway. | |The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox |and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. |He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know |if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the |others. | |I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have |replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to |figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is |Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night.

Response:

Snip he is pulling a fast one

Any equipment is only as good as the installation. Goodmans rep is below that of the other two. Perhaps they stopped selling to him, rather than he stopped buying from them…. —         BBB Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die.

Response:

The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore.

Maybe his profit margin is higher on Janitrol.

Response:

All of us installers have our favourites and dislikes of products. Since the price of fuel can only go up, try to get a high efficiency model in the 90+% range. You’ll want a furnace that parts are easy to get, fast and locally. If your contractor will stand behind you on service at 3 in the cold morning, then go with him. Brand names are more money as they have to advertise. The furnaces are pretty similar.

Good points. In regard to the east to get parts, unless to live in a large metro area I would stay away from Lennox.   There do things a "little different" so that, for example, parts that a generic in most systems have to be ordered from Lennox. In my case, the installer for his own reasons decided to stop handling Lennox products.   Lennox cut him off and I have been waiting for a new Lennox motor for the air handler for over a YEAR.  (The old one was made to work by borrowing an end plate from the bone yard.) Obviously, if it came down to no heat we would rewire or do whatever it took to use a non Lennox part BUT… IOW:   Stay away from LENNOX!

Response:

The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others.

Janitrol is the Yugo (or maybe Kia) of heating. Very low priced and I wouldn’t say overly reliable either. Some swear by them but most swear at them. I don’t think Carrier is that reliable either, trouble with the control boards they make themselves. I don’t see enough Lennox anymore to know how they are doing but they use the White-Rodgers Intellignition boards which are reliable so should see little problems. I would certainly get at least 1 more bid. — HVAC Advice, Pictures, Links… http://www.geocities.com/~johnmills http://www.appelheat.com alt.hvac Charter, FAQ, Links… http://home.att.net/~alt.hvac/

Response:

I have been looking at Goodman (Janitrol by another name), and it seems that no one agrees.   Anyone you talk to seems to say that their product is the best.  Sounds good, but I haven’t had the Nissan people recommend a Toyota to me either. Does proper installation and maintenance make a difference?  Some say yes, some say no. There is a consumer reports article referenced in the 2001 buying guide, but my magazines are in storage along with all my stuff.  However, you may be able to get a reprint from CR.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. Janitrol is the Yugo (or maybe Kia) of heating. Very low priced and I wouldn’t say overly reliable either. Some swear by them but most swear at them. I don’t think Carrier is that reliable either, trouble with the control boards they make themselves. I don’t see enough Lennox anymore to know how they are doing but they use the White-Rodgers Intellignition boards which are reliable so should see little problems. I would certainly get at least 1 more bid. — HVAC Advice, Pictures, Links… http://www.geocities.com/~johnmills http://www.appelheat.com alt.hvac Charter, FAQ, Links… http://home.att.net/~alt.hvac/

Response:

The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol

I have a Lennox A/C installed 6 yrs ago never broke down once for me ,its rigged up to a 28 yr old G.E furnace now known as the Trane. company.Just try not to buy anything with any bells and whistles,just the basic 80 percent. "When sparks fly,robots die "

Response:

The price seems too high to me.  My furnace went out five years ago when the house was covered by a warranty and it was replaced with a 100k (I think) furnace.  Since the house warranty was up for renewal, I asked the installer how much it would have cost me, he indicated about $600 to $700.  That has been about five years and I am sure there are any number of variables, but $2k seems high for a drop-in replacement.  I have no complaints about the furnace – it works and it is quieter than the original.  On the other hand, I would suggest you price a new blower and weigh the benefits of replacing the entire furnace.  If it is more than a simple drop-in replacement, get several bids and ask them lots of questions about what they will do and get it all in writing. Walter Barnett – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 50 year old house with the same furnace that the squirrel cage blower seized it’s bearings.  I figured I might as well replace the furnace now as it was something I planned to do anyway. The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night. Thanks

Response:

That price seems a bit high to me.   Two years ago at my previous house I had an old oil furnace and tank removed and a Carrier furnace installed for about $1350. I guess if you have a big house it could be more money, but My house was a 4 bedroom home.  I would get a couple of estimates, before you decide.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – I have a 50 year old house with the same furnace that the squirrel cage blower seized it’s bearings.  I figured I might as well replace the furnace now as it was something I planned to do anyway. The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night. Thanks

Response:

I live in Canada, and recently choose a Lennox. I’m quite happy with it, but Trane’s are also just as reliable. Have no idea about Janitrol. I would personally stay away from the high efficiency models. They can be troublesome and expensive to maintain. I have a few friends with them, and they curse their units to no end. Bruce – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – … The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. I don’t have any background in this and non of my neighbors have replaced their furnace in the last 15 years so any help in trying to figure out a brand of furnace to buy would be appreciated.  This is Wisconsin and it gets mighty cold at night. Thanks

Response:

goodman is janitrol. years ago janitrol was a good product, then  Mr ron goodman bought janitrol , and now you can buy a janitrol , or a goodman both made by the same company in houston texas, my experience with goodman or the "new" janitrol has not been good, the goodman gmp series furnaces are noisy and problematic and i cant begin to recall how many of their condensers i have had to recharge repeatedly because the coils had microscopic leaks which i could not find,but the company would not replace the coils because i couldnt find the leaks, although i knew the coil was leaking due to an isolation and pressure test the other issue with goodman-janitrol, trane, lennox and carrier is that they use a lot of proprietary parts meaning basically that you will have to go through one of their dealers to get replacement parts. this is why i personally recommend , service, sell and install "Comfortmaker" a member of the Icp family they make  Heil, arcoaire, comfortmaker, tempstar, kenmore they are all the same furnace , just different names and use readily available honeywell controls where do you live? if you live in central illinois, perhaps you would entertain a bid from me? stay away from Goodman, just my 2 cents i am under the impression that because they are located in houston that they may be using untrained south of the border labor to keep cost’s down and subseqeuntly lessening the quality good luck rich – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – The contractor has recommended Janitrol and has told me that Lennox and Carrier are so unreliable that they don’t represent them anymore. He gave me a quote of $2000 to for a 80k BTU Janitrol and I don’t know if he is pulling a fast one on the price and the reliability of the others. Janitrol is the Yugo (or maybe Kia) of heating. Very low priced and I wouldn’t say overly reliable either. Some swear by them but most swear at them. I don’t think Carrier is that reliable either, trouble with the control boards they make themselves. I don’t see enough Lennox anymore to know how they are doing but they use the White-Rodgers Intellignition boards which are reliable so should see little problems. I would certainly get at least 1 more bid. — HVAC Advice, Pictures, Links… http://www.geocities.com/~johnmills http://www.appelheat.com alt.hvac Charter, FAQ, Links… http://home.att.net/~alt.hvac/

Response: